What can i bore the v6 to and if i do decide to how much will it cost. I know im going to twin turbo and id like to do it on a bigger engine i just dont know if i shuold go from 173 tpi to a 305 tbi or just bore it out.

 

you can't bore it far enough to have a meaningful effect, only bore it if you have to and then only bore as far as you have to.

 

just buy a 3.4 out of the early 4thgen camaros.
a 2.8 can be bored to about 2.9L
a 3.1 can be bored to about 3.3L
and a 3.4 can be bored to 3.6L

 

thanks for the help. i know my cousin has a bored mustang and he got almost 45 ci out of it but i wasnt sure how much i could get cuz i know id ike to keep a six and twin turbo it or ven compound turbo like the big diesles have. if its not worth it to bore then i can go to a junk yard and get a 3.6 or get this girls 3.1 out of a monte in a year.

 

You best bet for a turbo'd v6 F-body would be a Turbo TA, or a Grand National drivetrain. Stong motor, mods very well, etc...

 

I think the syclone/typhoon 4.3 SFI Turbo would be better. It would bolt to the existing transmission and still be a Chevy.

 

I plan on doing a 2.8 - 4.3 swap to my little brothers 85 camaro here within the next few months. I have a friend who is selling me his fully running 4.3 out of his 88 1500 for a 100 bucks. I can't wait.

 

i put my 3.1 turbo powered rs into the 12's with very lil mods,(mostly just a turbo kit)
im now building a 3.1 with canted valve heads that should go in the high 10's to low 11's.
and if that dosent fail i have a 4.3 vortec engine that ill be doing twin turbos on

also the 4.3 will not bolt to his v6 trans,since the v6 is a 60* motor,he would need to buy a 90* v6 or v8 transmission

 

Most of that displacement gain came from replacing the crank with one with a longer stroke. If it was bored, it was to clean up the cylinders, not to increase the displacement. Stroker 5.0's are very common, displacing 347 ci.

 

Out of a Monte? Are you talking about the front wheel drive monte carlos???

 

yeah it is a fwd monte, its a 98 and i dont know alot about engine swaps or boring but i was reading a previous post on here and i started thinking cant i just get a 302 from a bronce and drop that in cause you can buy a bronco for like 400 to 700 running where i am. and thats what my cousins was before boring so could just take that and make it a 347 and turbo that. I konw its not keeping the v6 like i wanted to but if its going to be the cheaper way to do it than it makes some sense.

 

The cheaper way to add displacement is to add cylinders. A 350 SBC costs less than any V-6, both for the core (or a running engine) and for modification. And you won't be getting anywhere near 450 cubes from a small V-6, but you certainly can with a SBC block. What sounds like it might make a few more ponies? A turboed 200-inch V-6, or a turboed 454 small block? I'd tell you which one would last longer, but I probably don't have to.

 

if i step up to an eight would i have to change anything like my brand new altenator, i know id have to change my brand new spark plugs and my new cap and rotor but what about the water pump and can i still use the same ac unti with the eight cuz it gets hot as ***** in the summer.
if i have to change everything i might as well just go buy a iroc

 

Sounds like a good idea. You'll need a turbo, and all the supporting stuff to run it, just to make a v6 camaro run with a stock L98 car. $ for $, SBC v8 is about the fastest way to go.

 

If you have a general mechanical knowledge, and some good tools (i.e. welder, band saw etc.) you can build a turbo set up for less than $1000. If you want a bolt-on kit talk to daves12secv6, he's got kits available. I'll be done shopping for my parts by the end of next month, I'll post pics. Also check out daves how-to install a turbo sticky on the v6 forum for ideas.
When the v6 dies you'll have one turbo already if you go small block.

 

ok, you've gotta be kidding me. Thinking about dropping in a turbo V6 then a ford 302, and complaining about replacing your new alt, spark plugs and waterpump? You've got a lot of learning to do, before you start in on anything.
It's gonna cost you a crapload of cash, such that a waterpump is looking like a drop in the bucket.
And give your head a shake and forget about non-chevy motors, non-v8's and all that jazz, those are just nightmares waiting to happen (for you). There are only a few brave souls on here running fast V6's (not including the GN powertrain setup), or pontiac/olds motors, and those guys really know their stuff. It sounds like you don't, so you should only consider the reeeeel easy stuff like a 350 sbc, N/A.

 

i know trubos and how they work how to get the most out of one and how to do the set up nice and cheap like around 1000 dollars. what i dont know is engine swaps and boring i dont know about what actually needs to be changed when i swap it and i dont know how much it would cost to bore or swap an engine. Ive been reading up on and searching for, pricing, and finding out how to set up the turbos on anything other then ricers and mine friend has been welding for years so before you try to insult me maybe you should find out what i do and dont know. i dont what to pay for a bunch of mechanic fees at 70/hr its not a fun time going to the mechanic and im confindent in making the turbo set up at home.

 

Reading your previous posts let me to believe precisely what you do, and do not know.

If you want to do the turbo V6, go nuts. But a small block chev built to withstand boost will be cheaper than the V6, since the parts are more common and available, and will make gobs more power.

I didn't realize your post was more towards "turbo'ing a motor", it sounded like "what do I do for more power?", of which, the answer is not "302 from a bronco". Just making sure you're clear on that.
A 305 TBI motor would be ok to use as a shortblock, the best of what you've mentioned so far at least. A roller 350 block would be a bit better.

 

Here's some pics of the turbos I just picked up for $0, that's right my bud gave them to me out of a 300ztt, whatcha think? They say M24 GARRETT A/R .48 1-2 on the intake side and 687 97J GARRETT 272-2 on the exhaust side

 

Some more pics...

 

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Building up a sbc for boost is not cheaper then doing the v6,granted u can throw a few psi on a stock sb,but the 60* motors come with forged cranks and rods from the factory,the weak point of the v6 is the pistions.and even im not convinced there that weak.Considering ive been running 12 psi on a bone stock engine that i beat the living hell out of.and im hitting the track this weekend pushing 16 psi on the same engine.another member here has run 12-14 psi on a bone stock 60* engine as well.and one of the 4thgen guys has gone as high as 16 psi on a bone stock 3.4 without probs


firstfirebird u would have to use those in a twin setup,one turbo would not be big enough.

 

Yeah I kind of figured when the output is only 1 3/4"! But either way they were free wich is the best part. One of them is seized, how much on avg to rebuild a turbo? The guy who gave em to me said I can run a twin setup with a MAP easily (compared to a MAF), whatcha think?
Actually better PM so we don't get off subject.

 

yeah one of those wont be big enough but also another thought cavitation as those turbos were meant to run on a 3.0 liter so anything bigger than 3.0L and they will probably perform poorly and be rather difficult to tune but then less than 3.0L will also cause the problem of turbo lag as there wont be as much exhaust flow to spool them up which means you might not even be making good boost till 4500+ rpms

 

I have a 3.1l! You really think that 100 cubic CENTIMETERS is going to make that much difference? He was able to produce 16psi easily with these turbos (have seen 25psi with the same setup)!

 

good for you.. a 3.1 now what motor does he have? and no 100 cc's wont be anything noticable but pretty much anything outside of +/- .5L could cause problems

 

You said it

 

what did i say?

 

Don't know what you're trying to say 100 cc = .1L
----------
off subject pm me if you want to discuss further

 

+ 1 for the newer 60* V6, Ie the 3400. Its actually a fairly stout motor, the heads are great, and the internals are pretty strong. I know a couple Grand Am guys that have built some 12psi motors that have run fine, we had tranny problems long before we'd hurt the motor. There area couple good grinds of cam availilbe for that motor now to, there is a fella going 13's all motor, which is pretty good for a fwd Grand Am, he'd cut a 12 with a healthy dose of spray. Of course, good lucky hooking that much power to the front wheels.

Point is, a newer 3400 should bolt in, can found cheap, and has real good heads and internals right on the motor. If your set on staying v6, that a good motor for ya. If you're going to do a 4.3, you might as well get a 350, it about the same thing minus a couple cylinders...

 

the 3400 wont just swap in motor mounts are in a different location and the starter would be on the wrong side of the block,but u can swap the 3xxx topend onto the rwd engines
the older i.e 3rdgen 60* motors have just as strong of a bottom end,the 3xxx series just has a better topend,,only requiring an pistion swap since the iron heads have 48 cc chambers vs the aluminum heads that have 25cc chambers.ive already dont this swap on a 3.4 and dam what a difference. the 90+ aluminum heads flow 40+cfm better then the iron heads from the factory,and apparently the new 3500 heads flow even better then that


right now im in the process of building a 3.1 bored to 3.3L with a 3500 head swap.my 3.1 with iron heads made 412hp/467ftlbs,so im expecting atleast 550 out of the new engine.

412hp cost me 800$'s
550hp? about 1,400$'s wont be sure until im finished

 

That's RWHP too, right?

 

yes

 

WooHooo I can't wait till JAN 2007...Firebird will be FORCED!

 

from a 302 to a 347 is mostly stroke not bore.

you have to have a VERY big motor to get that much out of boring or have a VERY VERY thick block to do so.

chances are most have neither

 

few things to think about though how much boost you run doesn't mean much. I can take two different turbos on the same exact motor and one will make more power then the other. at times more boost from what I have seen can even come back and bite you in the *** as far as power if you into the really inefficient part of the turbo.

as far as displacement that doesnt mean much either. kinda like my honda. get a turbo that is designed for a 1.6L from the civic SI on my car and it is going to suck ***** on my car even though my accord is a 1.6L as well. the whole thing is different from the heads/cam/intake/induction is VERY different on theres vs mine.

 

He said that those turbos were designed for a 3L engine, but I'm not using them anyway. Here's more like what I'll be using...eBay Motors: T3/T4 60 Trim Stage-3 Garrett Turbo w oil Line Feed Kit (item 180046989473 end time Nov-08-06 21:00:46 PST)

 

I'm only a little confused, but that doesn't take much. You asked about twin turbos on a 170-ish inch V-6 versus a SBC. Since a fully balanced forged 4340 rotating unit for an SBC can be had for less than $1,200, the proper cam for a blower application can be had for another $250, and everything else can be bolted on stock, you can be making a boost-ready SBC for as little as $1,500. I'm thinking that a 60º V6 won't have the same power potential for less than that. I could be mistaken (again), but pushing the V6 to 1,100 HP will probably lighten your wallet more than that.

 

for the 60* motor a forged 4340 crank will run u anywere from 800-1,000 good for 900+hp,a set of 327 small journal rods will run u another 200.
pistions will run about 200,though i just bought a brand new set of keith black forged pistions for my motor on ebay for 35$'s.

as far as heads u can use ported stockers,and the off the shelf 60* turbo cam is 76$'s.

as far as how much power the stock block can take im not sure,but i also know u cant make that much with a latemodel sbc block either,and a block for either engine is gonna set u back 2k.


so cost between the 2 is pretty dam close

 

If I'm not mistaking, we (60*v6) have froged rods and crank.
If you can make a boost-ready sbc for $1,500, you could be making some killer cash!
Your talking about spending that on top of the cost of the motor, brackets, accessories, intake, ehxaust, and enything else in a v8 conv. Dave has done it, and I am in the process of doing a turbo upgrade on a v6 that's already in the car for less than $1000!
I'm not saying it's something anyone can do, but one of my first questions on this site was weather or not I should go with a turbo 6. EVERYONE but Dave tried to talk me out of it. It wasn't sbctt vs 60*tt, it's about what YOU want and how bad YOU want it. I'm not going to be driving your car, so whatever you decide the people on this site have been fabulous about answering questions no matter how newbe.
And I'm not going twin turbos, only a larger one.
I'm gonna stick with what I feel comfortable doing.