I lightly buffed the bare metal areas with steel wool, then coated it with PB blaster... but now what? It came wrapped in rags, but I would imagine that would hold in moisture...

What is the best way to store these parts?

 

for how long approximately?

I'm not sure about PB blaster, I thought it was just a rust dissolver, I would have used WD-40 (out of habit). You just want to soak it in oil, a nice light oil, then wrap it in something to prevent the oil from getting wiped/washed off. Rags are fine if they hold in moisture, the oil will prevent it from getting to the metal.

 

I stored my stuff for two years. I oiled everything good then wrapped each part in streach wrap. Keep everything where there is some form of heat. Heat means dry. My stuff looked like new.

 

PB Blaster is also a lubricant. I was told that WD-40 or PB is good for short term, but will evaporate. I've been told to use bearing grease on all machined surfaces... this sound right?

 

WD-40 is better than CRC 5-56 but is too thin and will evaporate eventually. Rags will absorb oil from the metal and would have to be soaked with oil to be good. Bearing grease and stretch-wrap sounds easy, good, and durable to me.

 

I haved used LPS3, or 4 cant recall...Works VERY well for long term storage of metal parts..It is a waxy petrolium based product....I had a set of redone Chyrsler Six Pack Rods stored for about 3 years like that in my non heated garage, looked like new....Tom

 

i usuaully soak em really good with wd40 them bag em in heavy plastic bags.

 

put a thin coat of oil on everything the use 2 garbage bags, and put them on in opposate directions. i stored a block and a crank that way and it looked exactly the same 1 year later.

 

I used 80-90 gear lube, 2 HEAVY duty garbage bags, and stored off the floor (pallet). Some of the answer to how long it lasts depends on your weather, but judging by the amount of time it took me to clean everything up for assembly I'd say gear lube would last quite a while.

 

WD40 was specifically designed for that kind of thing, but a bunch of machinists have found that in some cases it can actually induce rusting, but as long as it’s wrapped in something and stored someplace dry I’d bet that it would be fine for most people.

WRT to it evaporating… it’s designed to… it’s actually an oil in a light weight carrier similar to kerosene, which is designed to evaporate off and leave the protective coating.

If you want something stronger then WD40 (actually, I really like PB blaster, or you can get a “tool protectant spray” designed for just this kind of thing even in a wet environment at Pep boys…), then use ATF, not only will it protect but it has a fairly heavy shot of anti oxidants mixed in and isn’t as big a hassle to deal with or clean off as gear lube or grease…

 

For long term storage, I put my crank in a 30 gallon oil drum, and filled it with oil... Expensive, but, once the can is sealed, it will last forever. (used wires to keep is upright, wouldnt want it to bend....)

For the block, smear it with grease and bag it up. Messy, but, effective. The grease will harden over time, and if left too long, will require hot tanking to clean it off. But, once it has hardened, will also last forever. Bag it up also.

 

couldnt you just shirnk wrap it entirely. almost like they do with boats only have the enitre item wrapped, the stuff they use is pretty thick and durable and is easy enough and doesnt create a mess that a drum of oil would. You should see what a boatyard would want to shrink wrap it, it could not be to expensive they just cover it and shrink the **** and seal it its not even big so.

 

wrap them in plastic after coating in oil or trans fluid
this isnt rocket science


good luck

 

for a block you can use this stuff called "fluid film" its basically oil in a spray can, its designed to prevent rust. spray it all over your block and wrap it up with seran wrap (sp?). keep it in a nice warm place and youll be fine. for your cam and smaller stuff you can do the same thing, spray it and then wrap it. and btw if you already have rust on your block, if its in one of the bores, dont buff it, buffing just spreads around the rust molecules, so it can spread over time, get it honed. same goes for your cam, and your cam is percision ground with tolerances so tight that a hair can screw it up. dont buff that either, buffing will spread the rust and put little dimples into the metal.

 

what if you wanted to store a whole engine?

I might be getting a 350 soon, should I just do what you guys are saying?

 

storing an engine is different, because its fully assembled it cant be wiped down and go good to go, it has to drained of fluids, each cylinder needs to be prepped so the rings dont rust to the walls. all holes need to be covered...its a whole other thread.

 

go get some 2 stroke fogger oil and just go nuts spraying it in every hole you can

 

For short term storage (measured in weeks) use WD-40. If long term (months, years) then you need something 'stickier'... WD40 will eventually go away, its too thin to stay around forever. Something a little heavier will last longer, like a thick motor/trans/differential oil. Engine paint will work good too, if the metal is clean.

 

The product I mentioned is made for this purpose..

 

i coat things in grease and wrap them in plastic for long term storage.works like a charm

 

that storing parts that are well oiled in double heavy duty plastic trash bags that are duct taped closed works reasonably well short term, but a good spray down with LPS #3

lasts longer than oil , as its a wax/oil mix that lasts for decades in a sealed bag
and use of larger plastic storage boxes, stored off the floor on shelving,
to place the parts in those trash bags in significantly helps reduce the chances of moisture intrusion


http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/...storing#p12734

 

A friend once bought a 440 mopar from a ole farmer and when we went to get it it was in a 55gallon drum of used oil. heads were off the block and it was all in there for 30plus years!!!!

 

Well as long as i can remember in building motors is that rust is your enemy! That being said ,moisture and air create these complications, I've always used and swore by one product and one only for this and has never let me down, that product is Marvel Mystery oil , it's thin and has properties that expell moisture away , I also wrap it in cheese cloth soaked and bagged once tapped up then again and tapped again ,never had one issue in 30 yrs plus, and also cleans up very easily..good luck hope this helps ya out ...

 

I think after 5 years he figured it out

 

ya never know, maybe he has been sitting by waiting for just the right answer...

 

Registered a new account just to say this:

Time and time again, I see people telling others off (be it serious, joking, whatever manner) for adding information to an old thread.

What these people fail to recognize is that this thread isn't just helping the original poster, it is helping every Tom, Dick and Harry who happens to come across this thread while searching for storage advice (AKA me). If someone has something useful to add to a thread, I don't care whether it is 1, 5, or 10 years after the previous post - it IS helpful. As long as it is on-topic, then the more information in this thread, the better.

Hope you get my point. You aren't answering questions for the original poster anymore - you are giving information to EVERYBODY else who searches for advice. This advice is timeless.

 

Well, since ya bumped it, and since the right answer has yet to be posted, I guess I'll have to jump in here........

For long term storage of engines or parts thereof, (anything over 6 months) the best product to use is called "Cosmoline" . It's what is used to store aircraft engines (as well a a whole lot of other stuff) and if it's trustworthy enough to store aircraft engines worth many thousands of dollars, it's plenty good enough to store your car engine parts. Being a retired aircraft mechanic I have personal experience with this product and I trust it far more than any other method listed in this thread (although the 55 gallon drum full of oil may be a close second, as long as it's CLEAN oil, used oil has it's own share of corrosives to worry about) .

The standard disclaimer applies, I have no financial involvement with this product, and am nothing more than a satisfied user of it.......

https://www.cosmolinedirect.com/