bad overheating
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Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 6
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From: Bonne, nc
Car: 1991 Z28 camaro
Engine: 5.0L 305CID V-8
Transmission: 5 speed
bad overheating
hey, this is kind of a stupid question my car has started overing heating bad if the thing idles for ten minutes its boiling any ideas?
i second that on the airdamn you need this no mater what! mine came off a few weeks ago and i couldn't drive around the block before it started over heating like crazy. check to make sure none of your coolant lines are pinched closed. there's some sleeves you can get from your basic autosupplier that help keep the hose open on tight bends if you need them. they're like 5$.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 651
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From: Adelaide, Australia.
Car: 1984 Trans-Am WS6
Engine: WAS: 5.0HO, SOON: ZZ383-425HP.
Transmission: 700R4 with shift kit
First: check coolant level,
Second: make shure the fan/fans are coming on,
Third: take the t/stat out and replace it,
Forth: come back and tell us if it is still doing it.
Hope it helps.
Second: make shure the fan/fans are coming on,
Third: take the t/stat out and replace it,
Forth: come back and tell us if it is still doing it.
Hope it helps.
Supreme Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,974
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Car: 91 RS
Engine: 350 vortec
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: not the best not the worst
how hot are we talking about here? boiling at 212 or 220? you are running 50/50 anti freeze right? and buy a new radiator cap!
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 6
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From: Bonne, nc
Car: 1991 Z28 camaro
Engine: 5.0L 305CID V-8
Transmission: 5 speed
i have done everything i can think of changed t/stat, waterpump, flushed the system, the air dam is still there(and works fine as far as i can tell) fans are fine and it still goes from cold to about 220 in about ten minutes
would the radiator cap make that much of a difference
would the radiator cap make that much of a difference
Last edited by hotrodZ28; Mar 9, 2007 at 07:17 AM.
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Supreme Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,974
Likes: 0
Car: 91 RS
Engine: 350 vortec
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: not the best not the worst
yes it isnt as cold in NC so i could see it getting warm pretty quick and yes a radiator cap will allow the motor to boil at a lower temp than the system is designed to maintain as in your fans turn on at 238* and cool til about 195 and as we all know water boils at 212 but with anti freeze and a 15psi rad cap that will raise to over 260... sorta like a pressure cooker the pressure raises the boiling point of the water ...
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,338
Likes: 73
From: Lexington, SC
Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
You've covered most of the bases so far. I'd next check airflow through the radiator and water flow through the cooling system. You can pull off the top radiator mount to have a look between the condenser and radiator. It will get clogged up with trash over time. Make sure you've got the right water pump for your belt routing and water is flowing through the radiator.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,675
Likes: 3
From: Arab, Alabama
Car: 1988 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 350 4BBL
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Heck, I hear that radiator caps are pretty cheap and easy to replace ...
Don't feel bad if that's the problem, you won't be the first.
If the system goes under pressure with the fans on and loses coolant then the head gasket(s), water pump, or radiator is bad.
Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 233
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From: Chester County, PA
Car: 88 Firebird - SOLD!
Engine: 2.8L
Is the engine actually heating up that much, that quickly or are you relying on a 20 yr old dash temp gauge? Try to get an acurate temp reading - I would not rely on a dash gauge.
Corky
Corky
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