What cam would you guys use with a 383 stroker? I don't know all that much about cams. I want for street/strip use. Thanks

(sorry about starting all the new threads i have alot to figure out)


Tyler

 

Since I read dozens of threads every day without necessarily following each member's saga, I need more information.

What block are you using, flat tappet or roller lifter? What induction?

 

to tell you the truth i dont really know if it is flat tappet or roller.?? Is there a way to tell. 350 sbc 400 crank


tbi

Thanks

 

What year is the block?
casting number on it?

heads used?
intention of car?
dollars you want to spend?

 

When you describe the intention of the car, as requested above, make sure to specify if the car will be smog tested, how much rumpity-rumpity you can tolerate / want in the idle, and if you have / will buy a higher stall torque convertor than stock.

Another good thing to do is to go straight to the cam manufacturers website. I know that you can submit a request for a cam selection at comp and lunati, probably others too. I would say wait untill this thread runs its course, because the questions we ask are things the cam company is going to want to know too.

 

Alright i want the car for street use and some strip use , it has the stock tq, it is not smog tested. I dont care about rumpity-rumpity idle i think it sounds good.


As far as i know it has stock 350 heads. (Not sure)

i would like to spend under $300.


See the thing is i bought the car with the 383 already in it about a year ago , and just haven't had the time to figure it out. i have heard the year of the block is reflected on what side of the car the dipstick is on(driver side for me) ????? Im not sure if thats true .


I will look for the casting number when i get home.

I also have the current cam specs at home to if that would be useful!


Thanks
Tyler

 

Tyler, to ID the block, look for the casting number on behind the driver's side cylinder head, close to the bellhousing. You will be looking downward at the block between the back of the cylinder head and the firewall. Then you do a search for chevy casting numbers. chevymania.com is one place that has them.

The casting number will tell you if the block is "factory roller capable" (made up term). Even if it is a roller block, that doesn't necessarily mean you've got roller lifters in it. Some of the trucks were "factory roller capable" but came with flat tappet lifters.

Anyway if your valvesprings are ok, you are looking at about almost $200 + shipping for the latests technology (comp xtreme energy, lunati voodoo, etc) in FLAT tappets for cam + lifter set. Plus you're gonna need gaskets, timing set, etc.)

I don't know the prices on roller cams but I know the aftermarket ones are substantially more than flat tappet cams. If you already have the factory roller lifters, and you want to buy a GM production roller cam, you could probably make your budget. But if you are buying roller lifters plus aftermarket roller cam, you probably won't make it. I'll let someone else chime in more on the roller cams.

 

Semi-true. '79-earlier had the dipstick on the driver's side. Roller started in '87, so yes, you've got a flat-tappet block.

 

im kind of new at working on motors. Is changing a cam something i could do by myself? I can do it while the motor is in the car right?
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Also how much would it cost to have someone put it in for me?

 

http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/Ca...?csid=108&sb=0


how about something like that?

 

That cam seems pretty mean..... dont know how well it would be with your stock heads. Also the site suggests high compression ratio, upgraded tq converter,gears,headers,ect..

 

No.

Why they even came out with that line is beyond me.

You already have my recommendation.

 

Tyler,

A cam change is something that is often done in the home garage but it is pretty involved.

You don't want to do it alone if it's your first cam change.

Let me see if I can scare you into having an experienced helper around...you're going to have the following and more removed...valve covers, rockers, pushods, fuel injection & intake manifold, distributor, radiator, fan, condensor coil, front engine accessories, timing cover, timing chain, the cam, lifters, oil pan halfway dropped, etc...

If you'e mechanically inclined you can do it alone as a second choice. But get a good book about it, allow lots of time, etc...

 

Lol you scared me into it. I have automotive technician friend/neighbor that said he would help. He said we could do it in a weekend. Does that sound reasonable? Also what is the difference between solid flat tappet cam and a hydraulic flat tappet cam?

I think i am going to end up getting a cam kit from lunati.

well my stock tune run it? I think it would but im not sure.

Thanks

Tyler

 

Solid flat tappet: The cam follower, lifter, or "tappet", is a solid connection between the cam lobe and pushrod. The surface on the bottom of the follower is basically flat where it runs against the cam lobe. In order for the valve to close completely, some "lash", or a gap, has to be provided in the tappet/pushrod/rocker arm/valve chain on the "heel" of the lobe. When the cam lobe starts to open the valve again, this gap is suddenly closed, which produces a tap sound - hence the name "tappet" for what is really a cam follower.

Hydraulic flat tappet: Externally the same as a solid flat tappet. But, internally a hydraulic mechanism is built into it to basically take up the gap or "lash" that is needed to allow the valve to close. The result is two-fold: 1) quieter operation, and 2) some self-adjustment to make up for wear over time.

The other types of lifter is "roller", which simply has a roller built into the bottom of the lifter that follows the lobe. This affects the lifting action of the lobe, so flat tappet and roller lifter cams each needs its own profile to work properly. The roller reduces friction and wear, and allows the lifter to more accurately follow "aggressive" lobe profiles. A roller lifter can be either solid or hydraulic, just like flat lifters. Your car came stock with hydraulic roller lifters.

 

But now i am not sure.

I could not see the engine id number, the motor is too close to the firewall.