So i recently got my electrical problem fixed, ignition wiring was bad and since i got it back sometimes while sitting at lights my car will unexpectedly stall out. I can restart the car and drive away fine, and i can also keep it from stalling by keeping the RPMs a little above idle. Any ideas as to what this could be?

I have a 350TBI and i just recently replaced the TPS, everything else seems fine.

 

Check your timing. May be too low.
Clean and reset your IAC.

 

replace the o2 sensor i had the same problems and trouble shot a bunch of other parts before i found the easy fix by replacing the o2 sensor

 

How ofter would an o2 sensor go bad? i recently replaced my IAC with one i got from another TBI i had lying around, cleaned them both up and this one looked cleaner so i used it. I have the old one im going to throw back in, ive had a surge at idle for sometime i cant figure out, sometimes sounds like i have a vaccum leak between like 0-2500RPMS huge swooshing noise that goes away at higher RPMS, maybe that is the problem but i cant find one for the life of me, my mechanic said its the sound of my open element with the cowl hood i have. Anyways, o2 sensor is a brand new bosch one that i put in this summer when i put in the new header gaskets. I have not made it out yet, i was away this weekend but this is what im going to do

Replace IAC, see if the problem is fixed
Check timing, its a brand new 350 with less than 5k on it, could timing get knocked out of wack that fast?
And if worse comes to worse ill replace the 02 sensor, its a 40$ part anyways but its brand new(less than 6 months old)


And also a question on Resetting the IAC, i tried that with the tech article when i switched the IAC 6 months ago and i could never get my car to run without it like the article says......is it any different to reset it on a TBI?

 

putting in new headers can move the position of the o2 sensor away from the engine. the closer the o2 sensor located on the headers is to the manifold/engine hook up the hotter it gets. thus making it work the way it was intended. i would suggest getting a heated o2 sensor to make up for the loss of heat with the new sensor position before you do any of the other things you had planned
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i might have been wrong about the headers if they are stock i thought you wrote you had installed new headers not the gaskets for the stock headers

 

No. Do the free stuff before spending money on another O2 sensor.

 

Im going to do the free stuff before spending any money. I do in fact have headers on my car, I just changed the o2 sensor when i put on copper gaskets for them(i blew through the cork ones). But would there be any way to test an o2 sensor? i have a volt meter.

 

the sensor is just not getting hot enough it sends signals to the ecm which tells the other parts of the engine to work properly. if the o2 senosr is reading a low temperature then the engine wont work properly. before i switched out my o2 sensor my car would stall at lights and stop signs, the voltage would drop if i pressed in my clutch and rolled to lights then stall. i had to always juggle the clutch gas and brakes when id approach a light. i thought it was the timing, my alternator, bad battery, blockage in my intake, tested everything that i thought would cause the rpm, voltage drop, and crappy acceleration. if your o2 sensor is located too far away from the engine it will not work properly and will cause all these factors to screw up normal operation. thats all i know about this problem so id suggest getting a heated o2 sensor. i almost spent hundreds of $ on new plugs, wires, distributer, alternator, air flow sensors, etc. when i fixed the o2 sensor no more driving problems.

 

wait wait wait I have to rant a bit


Never under any circumstances put some old used sensors in your car

if you want fuel injection than you have to pay!!

I would not even attempt to drive a fuel injected car with sensors that were used

diagnostic time just to mention a small part of the headaches you are causing yourself

if you want cheap power and you are tight on money stay with the carburator

with a computer you dont want to wonder if something is gonna work

 

Only sensor that i would say is "used" is the IAC which i bought new and had on my dads truck because his went south shortly before the engine spun a bearing. Its maybe a year old. Way newer than the one that was on the car and causing a surge at idle shortly after the swap which cost be a ton of money i didnt have. If i need a new IAC i need a new IAC, i dont mind paying for one. But first im going to check timing and the IAC, ill clean it up again. I was under the impression that IAC's could just be cleaned up and put back in. But as for using "used" sensors in the sense your talking about why on earth would anyone do that lol? Does a heated o2 sensor require any extra hookups than a stock one?

 

heated o2s are usually 3 wired. one for the ecm, power to battery and ground just look it up online for exact wiring hook ups