I was just curious if anyone could give me an estimate on what my 1/4 mile time might be when I have my new motor finished

I have...
a 350 smallblock
world sportsman II heads
236/242 duration @ .050 on a 110 degree lobe seperation
.520/.540 lift
9-9.5:1 static compression ratio
I plan to run a weiand airstrike manifold w/a 700-770 cfm carb

the trans is a full auto th-350, it's about as close as you get to a race trans.
3000rpm stall torque converter

I plan to run either a 3.73 or a 4.11 rear gear.

I want to say that the car weighs 3500 lbs, but I can't say for sure.


also, if you have any suggestions for me to improve my setup, I have my ears open!

thanks-

Eric

 

higher stall, needed I would say

almost 7000 rpms with that duration/sep

and pick up a Holley/Dominator tuning guide S.A. guides are pretty nice, for what ever Carb you get or have....

I would get a Wideband O2 sensor, like a plx....


and I would say 430 rwhp at 6700rpm

high 10's/ low 11's with good suspension and setup, 12's in street form/factory suspension

 

no way in hell will it run tens

shoot for low mid 12s unless you on slicks.

10's all motor is solid lift cam afr heads blah blah blah and a really nice suspension setup/

 

I do plan to drive it on the street almost daily, the cam is a hydraulic roller, so I don't think I'll even see 6500 unless I get a hydrarev(on the list, but I need to get the car rolling!) as far as the gear ratio goes, what do you guys think, 3.73 or 4.11? I plan to get some sticky tires for it once I devastate the street tires I have. also, does anyone know of anything I can do as I get ready to put the motor together (short block is already assembled) that might be worth a few extra horses and maybe a little quicker 1/4? I plan to tune the carb using the holley tuning tips on the carb board I still haven't decided on what size carb, probably a 750, but definatly a holley. I have access to a 850 dp, but I don't think I'll ever turn my motor fast enough to use it. also, what about the intake, is the weiand a good choice?

Thanks again-

Eric

 

I would say you need a higher stall converter...like an 8" 4000 or so. I would not go with a 850 cfm carb...the 750 you have should be plenty. A steeper gear would help you some, like maybe some 4.56's...but they might be a little more than you'd want on the street, so maybe look at some 4.30's. If you run a good set of drag radials and an adjustable suspension (i.e. torque arm so you can add some more pinion angle), you should be able to hook pretty good. Also, you may be able to put some thinner head gaskets on to get your comp. up some, but I wouldn't get too extreme with iron heads. If all goes well I would say you could expect lower 11's (maybe 40's) if you can cut a decent 60 ft time.

 

Alright i got pretty much full suspension on mickey thompson et streets.
i pull 1.6 60's and my 1/4 mile is 11.7-8 at 116.7

its prolly a 11.4 if it hooks really hard but ill break the rear.
Any which way its a 383 with dart pro 1 platnums. heads flow 275 cfm and with the gaset matched victor junior flowed 265-270.

my cam was a custom grind 240/246 560/560 on a 110lsa. also have a hydra rev.

Now tell me he is going to run 11.40's. its completely possible but its a lot of work. reality sux IMO. not trying to burst your bubble but im the person that would rather shoot for low 12's and when you pop out a 11.60 its extremely rewarding
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3.73 gears is ideal with a 28inch tire.411 is hard with a 700r4 or hooking period.

 

the main reason I was going to run a 3500 stall converter is because comp cams(where I got my cam) recommended a 3000+ stall converter.

this is the cam

http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/Ca...?csid=190&sb=2

I don't have a carb yet, but I was planning on a 750 dp.

anyone know anything about the weiand airstrike, it seems like it would be a good intake, but I've never run one, has anyone on here?

also, does anyone have a part number for a hydrarev?

does anyone know if anyone else other than AFR makes a hydrauli roller rev kit?

Thanks-

Eric

 

what's your stall kowboy?

116mph, 240/246dur


I'm hoping above 4000, but you do seem worried about your rearend.....

 

its a 3500 stall. yes im trying to get hands on for a turbo 350 with a 4k stall and trans brake. but right now i leave soft. pull 1.66 60'.
okay so i had the x282 before this ca which is oen step below this.

I got the car to go 12.06. best time ever. now i will tell you i did the math for what i did and i was like over 100% volumetric efficiency.

i think your going to be lower 12's when you first go out. you should be able on slicks and gearing to hit high 11's

 

11s can be had with some weight reduction,4.10-4.56 gears and a 4000-4200 stall......your rear end will be HATING YOU!

*edit*
i just saw your compression ratio,you need more to run the numbers i stated above
so now seeing that i will put you in the 12.4-12.7 range.....

 

I think he could pull off tens, with a bigger cam, higher c.r., and a better intake, and correct suspension. Current setup should be 11's.

Remember, people frequently run 10's on stock heads, not necessarily thirdgen stock heads, so his aftermarket heads should be just fine. For 10's "dart pro 1 platinums" and AFR heads are un-necessary.

You should weigh your car, it probably weighs less than that. Mine is down to a little over 3,000, but just looking at the car you couldn't tell I've done any weight reduction.
A possible weight difference of 500 pounds should definitely influence your cam, converter, and rear end ratios.

 

well, the car has an 8 point roll bar, but no back seat, no steel gas tank, it has a plastic harwood fuelcell. only the manifold is aluminum, hooker super competition 1.75" primary long tube headers feeding 3 inch true dual exhaust with flowmasters(and really jacked up floorpans) it has welded sub frame connectors, other than that the car is pretty much stock as far as I can tell. how much power is the factory 10 bolt rear good to? is a fourth gen rear any better? I can get one for next to nothing. do you guys think I might break my rear?

thanks-

Eric

 

all 7.5 and 7-5/8 rear ends are time bombs!
there are many 10sec cars with this rear but time will come!
the 4th gen rear is not too much stronger than the 89-92 rears but the LSD unit in the 2000-2002 is better. save some money and get an s60,12bolt or a 9"

 

Ican get a 4th gen rear for free (my uncle upgraded to a 12 bolt on his 98 Z-28) are there any upgrades to it I can make that would be cheaper than a new $2500 rear but have comperable strength?

again, thanks for any and all help-

Eric

 

are you crazy???

10 on stock heads are ls1 cars but they are spraying them.

ill tell you right now its impossible to get in the tens all motor on a 350 with any stock unported heads. every 100 pounds lost is .1 thats the rule of thumb.

now to the rear end. get it to where you cut 1.6 maybe 1.5 and that rear end should last you pretty damn wrong. once you see a 1.4 60' you better bring a trailer.

 

Yeah there is no way some stock heads are going to support a 10 second capable all motor 350. My previous estimate of mid-ish 11's was based soley on him cutting a real good 60' time. However, I now retract that statement, as it is pretty obvious that he still has the stock rear and suspension. If i were you, ericjon, I would spend my money on a good, adjustable torque arm, some good drag radials, and either a new rear or at least use that free 4th gen that you have. Remember, you can have all the power in the world but it ain't worth a hoot if you can't get it to hook up. Also keep in mind that a nasty all motor race setup is probably not going to yield very streetable manners that you are going to need to drive this thing every day, unless your daily commute is around the corner or something. I only mention this because I read the post above that said you were going to drive it daily and I think we have all forgot about that during the progression of this discussion. Just my 2 cents.

 

Well back to help you. i drive mine everyday and get great gas mileage. its a 500hp motor btw.

now if you tune your carb well you can get the same. I would advse holley.

a victor junior is a great intake especially with the cam you are getting.
I woud say a 3500 stall would be good and very streetable. Im going to swap to a 4000 stall soon.

if you have a 3.42 gear get a 26" tall tire. anything like 3.73 or 4.10 go 28".

that will get you going

any other questions let me know. im pretty familiar with what your doing
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btw if you get the 4th gen rear which i have done. for rims get a 6.5 offset. thats what i did for my greg welds and this is what it looks like

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/inde...ageID=49793929

 

I work about 15 minutes from home! but I'll need it on occasion for longer journeys! the main prob is that the car has that rollbar I mentioned earlier, I want to at least be able to partially back it up. either way I def plan on updating the suspension the main reason I was asking about the motor is because the car dosn't have one, well, one in it. I intend to use the fourth gen rear, mainly because it has disc brakes, what other suspension mods should I have in mind? the car is going to be a driving project. once I have it running I can mod the suspension, I just really need to have something to get me around!

thanks-

Eric

 

first, wow, your car looks awesome.

second, what kind of internals do you have in the 4th gen rear? I'm wanting to get a locker for mine.

thanks-

Eric

 

lol stock as stock can be. some crummy girdle and thats it. where i live i can get 10 bolts for like a 100 bux. so idc bout blowing it. its like a 1 hour job to swap it.

thanx for the compliment. I need to get a sound clip of it running. its crazy lol

 

Like i said, not 10's on thirdgen stock heads, but on other gm heads. My dad's dd used to run 11.2's on fuelie heads with NO forced induction or nitrous oxide, vortec heads are even better than those, and any world heads are better than vortec heads, so I am pretty sure that his heads can support 10's. Personally, I've never had a dd that quick.

I agree with 92droptopws6, find a 12 bolt or 9" to put in. You don't necessarily need an aftermarket one, sometimes you can find one of the right width in a junkyard.
If you want to build a 1/4 mile car, LCARB's will help a little, you might not need the front swaybar, lower the car, drag springs, better shocks. These are just some of the first things you might want to do.

 

because I intend to drive the car, I'm going to put a swaybar on it (it currently dosn't have one) I thought about a junkyard dif, but that comes with to many problems, like shock brackets no spring perches (or the wrong ones) if I put a 9" or 12 bolt under it, I'm going to get a aftermarket rear built for the car. I do intend to lower the car.

I plan to run a holley 750 carb on the motor, has anyone noticed any kind of power improvement between the chokeable models and the chokeless models? it doesn't get very cold where I live, and even on the occasional cold day it's not to tough to get one started, but if there isn't a difference, I'll keep a choke.

 

Even though you do have to put shock mounts, spring perches, LCA mounts, and a torque arm mount, and a few other mods put on a JY rear end, it should cost less than a few hundred $ to have it all done for you. You can usually cut all those thing of the old rear end.

You probably won't have a noticable amount of power gain without a choke, but I don't have a choke on my DD, and I had no trouble starting it at below 20* this last week.

 

do you know of any rear ends the right width? also, do you know the width of a stock '83 rear? 12 bolt rears are hard to come by where I live and I prefer to keep gm in a gm car. I know the 8.5" rears are a popular swap in the G-body circles, what about our F-bodies?

also, if I went without a choke on this car, it would be my 5th SBC to not have a working choke. it's not a big deal, just pump the gas turn it over, and idle it up for a couple of minutes.

 

I don't know any rear ends that are the right width off the top of my head... You can compensate for a few inches of difference by getting wheels with different backspacing.
Even if you have to narrow a JY rear end it will still be WAY cheaper than an aftermarket one.
IIRC a 9" from a ford van (not sure what model) is offset to one side, so you only need to narrow one side (costs half as much) and they are common on JY's.
'78-'79 ford granadas that had a 5.0 302 have a big bearing 9" with disc brakes... you could probably find a complete one of those cars for less than $1000., or probably >$500 without an engine.
10-bolt rear ends from chevys from the 60's or early 70's I believe are going to be better than any third gen rear, and they are easily found too.
There aren't any rears from other gm's that are a direct bolt-in.