Alright, got my block, its a 350 1pc. rms set up for a roller cam.
Ive had a couple threads on this build, but all seem to get lost in off-topic posts.
The Build:
.040 Overbore
Speed Pro cast aluminum Pistons and rings
GM PM Rods
Stock Crank
Stock Roller Cam, lifters, etc.

Where I need Help:
Heads:
I can get a good deal on heads, they are ''416'' 305 Heads with some mild port work done on them, he told me that there would be a compression of 11:1. Is this too much for a DD?
I was going to buy new springs for the heads, anyone have a link to a good set of valve springs for this set-up?
What type of rockers will be best? 1.5? 1.6? Use stock length pushrods?

Damper:
One of the things I would'nt think would confuse me so much, five7kid, and other very helpful members tried to help me understand this, but again, anyone have just a link, or a used one that they could sell me?

Side-Note-
Anyone know of any good machine shops around Tampa Florida? Please PM me if you do, that would be GREAT.

Thanks so much for the continued help, Ide be lost w/o this site.

 

Heads alone don't "make" 11:1 compression. The complete engine is required to figure out what compression ratio you will be at. Deck height, gasket thickness/diameter, cc's of the valve reliefs, etc. With all that data, then you'll be able to calculate your compression ratio. But yes, 11:1 is a big high. Especially for iron heads.

Match your springs to your cam specs. Usually cam companies recommend specific springs. Most people advice to go with said recommendation.

Pick your rocker ratio after the cam. Are the heads machined for more valve lift? If yes, you would have to find out how much lift before the retainers hit the boss/top of the valve seal. If no, about .470ish or so +/- is the generally accepted "max lift" on stock heads rule. Once you have selected your cam specs, if you have the clearance to run 1.6's, fine. If not, don't.

Pushrod length needs to be measured once the cam is installed. Assuming you're running a hyd. roller, most likely a stock length will end up being fine, but again, don't assume, just measure to be sure.

Just go to the local parts store and buy a new damper. As long as youre setup is internally balanced, the damper doesn't balance, so any interally balanced will do. That includes a standard factory replacement, which is my recommendation.

 

I'd go with some vortec heads unless you got the money to go aftermarket.

 

Stekman-
I know that heads alone dont make the compression, I forgot to mention that I have flat top pistons with 4 valve reliefs, the head gaskets I have came in the ''Master rebuild kit'' I got from Summit, made by Mr. Gasket. I know I can get 882 heads jsut about everywhere I look, but Ive heard thet 882 heads are purely junk. Im on a budget, but my build is coming along.... slowly..
I am using the stock cam, for now, So Ill buy 1.5 rockers and determine pushrods after head choice? How do I measure pushrod Length?
When I go to the auto parts store, do I just ask for a 350 damper? If I ask for one for my T/A, it will be one for a 305. Should I just ask for one for: 1989 Camaro w. 350? That would work?

Codename47-
I thought Vortec heads were more for Fuel injected systems, Im just going to run Performer Intake with my Rochester Carb, and have someone tune the carb for me. Budget is a factor, Ide rather just have the older styled heads anyways.

 

I run a carb on my vortec heads. "older styled heads" are 30 year old technology. Vortecs use newer technology and are by far the best budget head on the market. I got a fully assembled pair for 200 bucks.

Just my 2cents!

Here's my 400 w/ vortecs. This was before I switched to the double pumper though. That's just a Holley 750 cfm vac secondary.

 

Brad-
To measure pushrod length, you will need to borrow or buy a pushrod length checker. Something like this: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...1&autoview=sku (that's the one you would need, stock flat tappet cams are 7.800" while stock rollers are 7.300").

Either damper would "work." It's a matter of where your timing tab is located. Most likely yours is located at 12" o'clock, so if that's the case, get a damper for your 305. 350's on the other hand, their timing tab is located at about 1:30, which changes the crankshaft keyway to timing notch relation. Which would severly alter your timing readouts.


There really isn't much the head can do in terms of being more biased towards fuel injected or carb'd. They're pretty decent stock heads, they have a nice intake port design. Just keep in mind, with Vortec heads, comes the required Vortec intake.

 

Codename47-
Beautiful IROC Btw. I didnt know that about the Vortecs, Mind telling me where you got a good set for 200? Thanks

Stekman-
Sorry if Im being a bit of a noob, but trying to learn.
I plan on using the timing chain cover from my 84' 305 on my new 87+ block. IF I do this, which style of damper would I need?
And by Vortec Manifold, do you mean just a manifold made for newer bolt pattern'd heads?

 

Damper needs to match the timing cover, not the block.

Vortec heads have a special port location and bolt pattern, specific to Vortec heads alone. I.e. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...6&autoview=sku

Look under the application and you'll notice how it states it's for the Vortec style cylinder head.

 

Ok, So should I go with the damper off of my 305, or go with one made for a 350?

I Understand about the heads now, thanks.

 

You can get them used for cheap. There is a guy around me that sells them.

As stated, you need to buy a vortec intake though. It's not that they are more expensive or anything though.

That's not my car, that's my buddy Mark's car. We were putting the motor in my Z28.