hey just finished the 2nd headgasket job, the first time i did it was about a week ago, when i was finished it turned out the head was cracked, so i just got new heads and just completed installation. however i cannot start the car, im not getting any spark, and the distributor is getting power and i replaced the ignition module with a spare one i had and no change in stating, i also dont hear that ticking of the fuel mixture selinoid, the engine only turns over and back vents unburned gas from the carburator. (however prior to doing the second job i pulled the distributor and oil pressure sensor to look at a leak on the backside of the intake manifold, and when i replaced the distributor i couldnt get the engine to run properly and would only stay on if i held the gas down, after that i just resumed with my installation of my new heads) sorry for the essay. any ideas? pick-up coil possibly?

 

You aren't getting any spark but are getting back venting through the carb? Sounds like two different problems, or you are getting spark.

It really sounds like the distributor is in 180 degrees off. And you are getting spark.

If you really aren't getting spark, you've got maladjusted valves. And something wrong with the ignition.

 

okay, i just confirmed on another thread that the valves were adjusted properly cuz i didnt notice any loose valves when i turned over the engine to do the other half, im definitly not getting spark and the back pressure coming out of the carb seems to be wet gas and drops of gas spuing out, well imma go to the yard and see if i can pull a good distributor. any other ideas? thnks help too

 

befor i go.. i did turn the distributor around 180 degrees to test it and same thing a little bit of gas flying out the carb and the engine only turns over.

 

your valves can be/and sound like they are to tight, hence that they are not shuting and fuel is being pushed out of the combustion chamber. i doubt your dizzy is bad. your timing is prolly way out. did you reference your rotor/dizzy at topdead center before teardown? and how are you testing for spark?

 

no i didnt i just set everything back at tdc. befor i started the car, so i should redo the valve adjusting?

 

yea, redo the valves. hopfully none of them are bent from piston contact. how are you adjusting them? and how are you testing for spark?

 

okay im now getting spark, but same thing just spuing out gas and stuff... so i pulled off the valve covers and i just redid the adjustment again i have not closed the engine yet because the adjustment looks the same as when i pulled the covers off, i put the motor at tdc and adjust half the valves than i put the engine at #6 tdc and adjust the other half in sequence, i take away all the lash, than i give them 1/2 turn. i did this a week ago with my old heads when i did the headgasket the first time, and it started up just fine,

is their anything i need to do different when adjusting rebuilt heads that i have on their now? thats seems to be the only difference is the new heads.

 

if your 100% on the valves, make sure your dist rotor is pointing at the #1 plug wire on the rotor on the power stroke tdc. you might have it firing on the exhaust stroke when you installed it. try to get it as close as you can. u might have to pull the dizzy back out and re install it propplerly, if it fires and stays running, go through the valves once it warms up to operating temp. back them off till they clatter then snug them down till they stop then back it off just a hair. does it sound like it wants to fire but the timing is to retarded?

 

That's not a very good way to do it. Loosen all the rockers. Put the engine on TDC, take the lash out of each rocker. Then give the crank 1/2 turn, tighten all loose rocker, repeat until you've made 4 adjustments. Then give each rocker 1/2 (1 is better) turn down.

Still say you probably have the distributor in 180 degrees off.

 

 

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okay imma redo the valves a 3rd time ur way this time cuz im still only getting a (only one) backfire when i crank it, do i adjust all 16 valves at the same time this way or do I set engine to #1 tdc take the lash out of the first sequence and 1/2 turn down 4 times than the other half on #6 tdc?

 

whaaaat??? go in sequence and set one cylinder at a time. when the intake opens adjust the exhaust, when the exhaust opens adjust the intake, then move to the #8 cylinder then #4 then #3 and so on. if u have a radical cam there will be to much overlap and this might not work. once you set that cylinder go to the next in the firing order, till they are all set. if it will run after that, do like i said earlier and re set them while its running at operating temp.

do you have your firing order right? u might have the wires crossed.
18436572

 

yea im like 99% sure their in order but ill go recheck them anyways

im not retarded but i dont understand how you set the valves for one cylinder at a time, do you just turn the crank till the rotor is point at that piston on the distributor? and how do you know when the intake and exhaust is opening and closing?

 

forget about the rotor, start on the #1 cylinder. the rocker lined up with your intake manifold runner is, wel the intake valve and when it is pushing the valve spring/valve down a good amount, the exhaust vavle(lined up to the header) should be shut. always adj your valves when they are shut. now back off the exh valve till its loose enought to wiggle slightly. hyd cams are zero lash i beileve. anyways, do this one cylinder at a time. once you get both valve adjusted on that cylinder rotate the engine till u see the #8 cylinder int valve moving. get the idea?
i think you can do 2 cylinders at a time, 1 & 6, 8 & 5, 4 & 7, 3 & 2

 

Let me try again.

Loosen all of the rocker arms until they wiggle.

Put the crank at TDC (doesn't matter if #1 or #6, just put the mark to the "0" on the tab). Take the slack out of all 16 rockers. JUST take the slack out, no more.

Turn the crank 180 degrees (1/2 turn). Take the slack out of any loose rockers (should be 12 of them loose, but check them all).

Turn the crank 180 degrees (another 1/2 turn). The mark will be back to the "0" on the timing tab. Take the slack out of any loose rockers.

Turn the crank 180 degrees (1/2 turn). Take the slack out of any loose rockers (should be four still loose).

Now give each and every one of the 16 an additional 1/2 to 1 turn (1 turn is the factory setting).

You're done. The only way you can mess this up is if you turn the rockers down more than what is required to just remove the slack.

There is a more complicated way to do them one cylinder at a time. But, it really isn't necessary.

 

yea, i have a solid roller cam, one at a time is how i have to do it due to stud girdles and having to use a feeler guage. follow mr. 57's method to the T, and youll be set. and CHECK your firing order.

 

wow that makes it so easy to understand... and all you did was describe each step... makes me feel dumb, yet informed. thanks man.

 

Yes, with a solid cam you have to use a different method (E-opening/I-closing) because solid cams have a lash ramp that you need to stay off of when you adjust the rockers.

 

okay so valve job worked out great... however turned out the spark plugs were so wet it didnt allow the car to start, so i had an old set lying around and popped them in and broke a phew trying to put them in and used some of the old wet ones (i did dry them befor installing) the car runs so rough, it only idles good if i screw in the idle control screw in the front of the carb (rochester 4bbl) and drives slow, if i pull the screw out a phew turns itll idle rough and drive faster, is this cuz of the spark plugs being and using some of the wet ones?