Ok, so if anyone recalls, I had an ignition key issue where the key wouldn't turn back from ACC so I could remove it. Took it all apart, found out it was NOT

1) Ignition tumbler
2) Shifter safety switch
3) The close hanger thingy


It ended up being the column sleeve was mis-aligned and wouldn't let the mechanish spin all the way back. So, I had to loosen the two bolts that hold the entire column to the dash. However, I messed something up because now the actualy column that the steering wheel connects to is all wobbly. A very small bearing dropped out of the column.......now, what did I mess up, how much is it gonna cost, and how tough is it?

Thanks for the continued help, stick with me!!!

 

Ok, so I took it apart some more and it looks like there were two sets of bearings visible from the top that I have screwed up. Is it as simple as installing some of those bearings again? Are they pressed or what? I can't find jack via searches on the forums or google.

 

Here are a few progress pics, how the hell do you remove this thing from the car? Particularly, how do you remove the plastic sleeve I arrowed too? I want to replace the wiring, but no idea how you would feed the adapters through.

 

The upper and lower bearings are not pressed. On a tilt column, there are two lower bearings on the stub shaft. They are a push fit into the upper column bowl housing. You should be able to insert the missing ball(s) and lubricate the bearings, then assemble the upper column bowl into place.

The upper bearing is a slip fit. There is a heavy spring on the upper end which is used to preload the upper bearing.

All three of these bearings are above the tilt joint universal.


Tilt Column View

 

Hrmm, so is it possible to replace the turn signal switch assembly (#10 in the diagram) without removing the entire column from the car?

EDIT: Appears it was just the upper bearings, I assume the local auto parts shops carry these?

 

You need to remove the tilt counterbalance spring cap and spring. A large (#3) Phillips works for this. It is a standard bayonet mount.

Once the spring is removed, you can remove the pivot pins and entire upper column bowl assembly, then repair the bearings. To pull the pivot pins, fashion a puller from an 8-32 screw, some nuts, washers, and a 1/2" 12-point socket:



Use caution in pulling the pins, since they are staked in. Once they are removed, you can use the tilt release lever to disengage the tilt locking pawls and remove the upper bowl.

 

Yes, the turn signal switch can be replaced without even touching the lower bowl trim. The wire harness and connector are fished through the column, just like the original wires and connector. Tie on a sturdy pull line or wire when removing the original switch, then use it to assist in pushing the new wire harness and connector back through.



Good luck finding the bearings at any parts store. They will likely be dealer only or salvage yard parts. As long as you have all the parts, all you need to do is reassemble them properly.

 

Attaching pics of the bearings I have from it. Problem is.......there are more bearings, than there are holes in the assembly. Also, there is one odd-ball sized bearing in the mix. I think I am fuxor'd............

I did get the wiring removed though for the turn signal and stuff, so that's one problem solved. Now the bearings..... I haven't removed that tilt counterbalance part you mention yet though. I have to get the right tools to remove it, can't find them around the garage at the moment. I am horrible at bearings, otherwise I think I would have no issues reassembling it all.

 

That bearing look familiar to anyone?

 

You've got all the parts. Just invert the bearing cup, pack the cage with grease, then set the ***** in place. Insert the center cone and you have an assembly.

 

Be very careful with that "golden" cage. On my car it's made of plastic. I ended up destroying it and had to replace the whole bearing assembly.
GM does carry the bearing.

 

Nice, so........

1) Why do I have more bearings than there are holes in the plastic ball holder?

2) Do you happen to have a rough price and item number from those bearings?

3) I had a friend suggest just replacing the entire steering column, apparently it's easy to remove the entire thing? What's the average price on those?

 

Maybe you roached both bearings.
I have a receipt here that has rack kit. I think it's for the bearing assemblies.
P/N 7844651 $55.
You'd be best off verifying the info at the stealership.

 

Thanks, I have been looking around at entire assemblies and they look to be very well priced. I think I am gonna buy another assembly, and practice rebuilding this one after I bring it out.

 

You probably have more bearing ***** than spaces in the cage because you also lost ***** from the upper bearing. I'd check both when you get the upper bowl removed. It's a good time to clean and repack them all anyway, so when you are finished it will last another 15-20 years.

 

Is removing the entire steering column as easy as just unbolting the 4 bolts at the firewall, and one bolt in the engine bay? I know the support bracket has to be removed, as well as electrical connections. My buddy says it's easy, and I am hoping he is correct.