kkingsrulee

I have a 1990 Camaro RS 305 and it doesn't want to start all the time, it's not an issue with the power I don't think. What it does is sometimes it won't crank at all, not even the solenoid click, nothing happens, the "idiot" lights just light up, that's it. Before this I thought it was just because it was cold out, but the other night I needed to jump start it because it hadn't been started in a couple of weeks which is normal for it to need, and I hook up the jumper cables and rev the other car a little bit to give it some juice and I jump in the seat of my car and try to crank it and pulls that crap again where nothing happens, no solenoid click or anything, so I disconnect the cables and try the car again and it starts that rapid clicking it does when the battery's dead, so I put the cables on again and try it and the same thing happens! it acts as if power is not getting to the starter at all. So i fool around with the negative terminal for a while and I see some sparks jump here and there and the power gives out a couple times completely so I just move the terminal around again to give it power again, I try the cables again and nothing happens, same no-click situation. So mess around with the fuses, pull some out, put them back in, (ignition fuses) and I put the cables back on and it fires up. Anyone know what the problem is? Could it be the negative terminal? I don't think it's normal for the power to cut out in the car when I merely move the negative terminal cable down 3 inches, please help, it's a big problem.

84Z28406

Are the cables tight? I had a similar problem with my Z28. I'd get a reading of maybe 8 volts until I went under the hood and jiggled the negative cable. Got tired of it so I took the cable off, cleaned it and the terminal, tightened it down really well and never had a problem since.

kkingsrulee

Tightness has no affect, I have tightened it down as hard as I could before, and the problem persisted, and still persists. Any other suggestions?

bitchin_buick

Sounds similar to my problem! positive post @ starter was very loose, pulled starter and ran test (bolt within starter very loose) @ autozone and tested fiine....bought new anyhow and waitin for moisture to clear to finish the switch. pulled offf old rotor/dist cap>>>>>rotor looked very fried..... Best of luck to u! (pulled and tested alt and it was fine and didn't replace0!!

the zander

My recommendation would be to wait for another no-start day, and use a DMM to test for +12V at the starter's positive terminal, and the solenoid terminal. then we can start hunting down your gremlins from there.

-Zander

kkingsrulee

I tested it today, there's power on the positive terminal of the starter, what should I check now? any ideas would be helpful, it's just such a bothersome problem, especially if i really need to move the car.

the zander

Alright that rules out the wiring from the battery/alt to the starter. now test the solenoid terminal for a positive voltage when the key is in the crank position. It should be the smallest terminal on the starter. That should indicate if the wiring between the ignition switch and the starter is at fault.

-Zander

bitchin_buick

not to sidetrack u from the task at hand that Zander is helping u on..... But I had a very similar problem and thought it was electrical as well! Went as far as replaced battery & new battery cables, tested Alt(fine), replaced starter, And did a complete tune (new plugs,wires,rotor,dist cap).... Started but still acted funny..... Gave in and went to a mechanic--- ended up being the fuel pump relay. And in regards to the comment before u can have all your connections tight as hell but if they are not clean(sanded) or new you won't recieve the proper voltage.... Fuel pump relay?.... Good luck!

kkingsrulee

Alright, I got back under the car last night and looked again, i tested the power at on the solenoid on the terminal with both positives attached with the key at the secondary or w/e it's called (idiot lights light up) and there was power there, and i tested the power at all the other terminals on the solenoid and there was no power anywhere else, what does this mean now?

And to you bitchin_buick, the same circumstances as mine happened to you? the car wouldn't crank at all? I'll listen if the fuel pump whirrs up next time, i can usually hear that.

the zander

In order for the starter to engage you need +12V to the starter motor (usually provided buy a big 4ga wire) and +12V to the starter solenoid. i'm not sure which "other terminals" on the solenoid you are reffering to, if there is another it should be the solenoid ground, and probably just connected to the ground of the starter motor. The whole unit is then connected to ground through the engine block (its physically bolted to the block). Have you verified the condition of your grounds? If in doubt just connect a large ga. wire from the "-" terminal of the battery to a solid, clean location on the engine block (i like the fuel pump bolt bosses on the block).

-Z

kkingsrulee

ohhh, so there's a wire going to the starter motor? not only the solenoid?

bitchin_buick

the big fat positive wire from your battery goes somewhere! It goes to your starter. if u havent figured it out by now and i hope you have. if not your gonna have to get your hands really dirty pull and test the alternator and test the starter. while you have the starter pulled might as well run new clean bat. cables (+ & -) use sandpaper to clean - connection at block, clean all connections with sand paper(pos.wire to starter).... Run test on battery while your runnin test on the other stuff! Good luck to you, Been there before. NOT FUN! I feel your pain bro!