I have an '89 L98 Formula WS6. It will start sometimes and run fine. If I shut it off sometimes it won't start for days, then it will start for no reason. So I replaced the fuel pump and it fired right up and ran fine. After running about 1/4 tank of gas out of it, it cranks but does not start. There is fuel in the tank! There is spark, set the TPS to .54 volts and have 4.6 volts at full throttle. When it ran it idled smooth at 700 rpm and 600 in drive. No codes. I unhooked the MAF to see if that was it, no change.

What could be the problem?

 

ttt

 

mabye the ignition module?

 

I pulled the distributor today and it it destroyed. I don't know how it ran at all. Multiple cracks and the pickup coil was toast. I ordered a replacement Accel unit.

 

OK, put the distributor in, and it still won't start. The plugs were fouled so I put new plugs in. I checked fuel pressure and it is 45 psi. I have spark. I checked all the stuff in the repair manual and I am down to the EGR or the ECM. So I pulled the computer loose and it looks like a junk yard replacement since it is marked 88 GTA 350. Will this ECM work with my 89 Formula?

I also had Tuner Pro RT recording data while it was running, after I installed the new fuel pump, and I was getting intermittent error codes. One was the memcal. The others were tps,which I fixed, the voltage was set to high, EST and ESC was on but then cleared and also the MAT error code came up. It was showing a lean condition as well. What the hell is going on?

 

After going through the factory repair manual I realized that VATS will let the engine crank but wont pulse the injectors. I read in all the other sections that it would cause a no crank condition, period. So I started to look into VATS. I realized that my key does not have a chip in it and the lock cylinder slides out of the steering column easily. Not all the way but I can pull it out about 1/2". The key isn't even square as it should be, it is a round key, like what is used for the doors. I don't know what has been done to the VATS system by the previous owner/owners but something is screwy. I checked the connector (orange shrink wrap over 2 white wires) and it is connected with no bypass. After searching how to bypass this system (I have no need for it, I live in the country and people don't even lock their cars or houses) I have decided I don't need it. If I reprogram the PROM can I use a regular lock cylinder and key?

 

broken injector maybe? thats what happned to mine..

 

If you disable VATS in the PROM, should be no issue switching lock and key setup. Hope that helps.

 

Ohm out all the injectors. One shorted injector will do exactly as you describe. Don't ask me how I know, but I will say that I have a spare distributor too.

 

I'm pretty sure I have a VATS problem and it cuts power to the starter as well (at least it does for me.)