ill probably have to call BS on you... i wouldnt trust anything that comes out of someones mouth thats that ignorant...

but you are from Texas, so what can you expect...

 

Back to the original owner. Dyno's are notoriously spotty when it comes to #'s. Some days 210, other days 200, maybe less. Even differs by dyno type too.

For HP output the REAL test, the ONLY test that matters is how fast your car is at the end of the 1/4 mile. Not how fast it gets there, but how fast its GOING when it gets there.

You can take that #, plug in your race weight (Car+driver), and get a very real HP number.

Example, my 89 GTA has a race weight of nearly 3770lbs with me in it, fuel, and misc stuff I have in it all the time and traps at 102.8mph. You plug those into an estimator and you'll get about 320hp. My car is a B-body LT1 (smaller cam + iron heads) with CAI, tune, Headers, cat-back. Said LT1 was rated 260hp stock.

You can try it yourself if you want. The basic formula for HP from weight and trap speed is:

HP = Weight * (Speed / 234)^3

You can use a DA calculator to adjust the Trap speed based on environmental factors for a more "standardized" number.

 

OHOHOHOHOHOHOOOO! AND THE PLOT THICKENS!




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vyFSdj1J5Vw

 

Only if you can put that to the ground or your not.

I still like the 90s v6 twin turbo cars best.

 

Yeah but you would use more fuel on avarage and im sure it still could not keep up with a 220hp 3000gt and defently not the 300hp vr4 or 300ZX TT.

 

WTF? Mitsubishi's? Wrong website dude

I personally find this thread rediculous....

You're all arguing over a 200hp 305.... Think about that for a minute

 

Well I just thaught it was funny because those 3800 pounds and run 14 flat at 100mph and I used to own a stealth lol. Yea arguing over 200hp engines is rediculus.

 

[QUOTE=TNT_Z28;4917690]Ignorant? Hardly. I just happen to know BS when I see it. And your about the biggest example that I've seen to date.
It was a joke aimed at someone else. Obviuosly your not familiar with the concept of sarcasm, or much else for that matter.

And yes I am from Texas. I'll never be afraid to admit it. In fact its chumps like you that make me glad I'm not from the lame state of Dooshasota. Sounds to me like your just jealous, but thats alright I'm not mad at you. Just feel sorry for you is all.

Have a nice day, Chris

 

[quote=RS Chris;4918232]This nothing to fight over. There bigger fish to fry. I think I heard that from a Texan. Or maybe John Wayne.

 

are we still fighting over my dyno sheet that my car makes 201.5 hp to the tires and 268.2 tq to the tires dam

 

I'm from Nebraska. Anybody want to make something of that?

Tone it down, people. The purpose of this Board is to exchange technical information, not to prove your manhood.

 

 

"Go buy a gun, weld the barrel shut, shoot it, and then see how much that gun likes backpressure."

By far the greatest post I've ever read. LMFAO.

 

Some of us are not aloud to own a gun.

 

Which is too bad. Proven fact that with guns = less crime. Crooks will always get the guns. They're just less willing to use them if they think they other guy is packing heat. That was WAY off topic but I do have to say, that was a pretty great post Zeeboinc!

 

a set of shorties with a 3" catback with a cat and a decent muffler or a cheap dynomax, is good for over a second off 0-60 times, the dramatic feel in the pants is crazy. A 2.5" dual exhaust is good for 550+ on small or bib block in a vast amount of cars with 550hp+. If you jump to 3", you need 550+ hp without seeing losses, but my dads 461 pontiac we built, puts out 647hp on 93 octane, however the only stock parts in his engine, are the block, nodular 455 crank offset ground and the timing cover.

I had problems with my low compression formula 350 engine, I had to beat two tickets beause of my exhaust! So why would you want to lose your license or have cops want to come pull you over and bust your ***** for 3" exhaust, after some time, cheap engines that are loud and *******, don't go NO WHERE! However, you have 550+ hp for those big exhaust tips or ghetto muffler, then talk.

I just beat a honda in my subaru wagon yesterday on La Grange rd in orland park il. I opened my window, after I turned my 4 12's down, and my stock 117K boxer subaru station wagon, smoked the **** of this punk kids honda, man that was funny, shoulda youtubed that ****

 

The pipe diameter has little effect on how loud an engine is. Like other variables it can affect engine performance, and it can affect the pitch of an exhaust, but it doesn't affect the actual SPL measurement outside the car.

Take a look at Wind Instruments wind instruments. The Slide Trombone is a perfect example. When the slider is at maximum length the pitch is lower than at its shortest length. But the SPL produced by the player is mostly determined by the player's breath control.

Compression is what really affects engine SPL levels the greatest when comparing similar engine displacements.

 

wonder y my 305 kicks ***

 

Hey you must not read much, size, as in diameter, length of primaries, collector length, dimensions, all are different for needs of diff engines.

If you run the long tube hookers 1-5/8" or 1-3/4" primaries, with merging into 6" of collector, when theres only 2" of actual 3" for 2" of it, so add 10" more of 3" extension, then you tune the peak torque of the engine for 5150 rpm.

Compression, doesn't always affect loudness, look at my formula on youtube. My 305 with the same exhaust and extensions is quieter, than my 8.43:1 350 motor, vs, this 9.3:1 slightly lower hp motor, ok, try over 150hp more than my current 305. The engine pulls in as much air as its made for, the tuning, part, comes in, when you "Build" your exhaust, and all the seperate pieces of metal, in the right sizes, between primary, secondary waves and what they refer to as a "slug" when it enters the collectors.

When you have tuned collectors, even with the worst mufflers, the engine won't even "see" your exhaust, and no obstruction.

I bet you believe you need back pressure too, the reason there is back pressure, is because you just put it together, for ground clearance and noise, and durability. However you don't need any! My car has O" psi in my exhaust, yes it can help add torque, but, "BUT" on a cheap engine, it helps add torque due to that restriction.

I'm going to run low 13's on my stock 305 TPI with my long tubes, tuned exhaust, and nothing else.

You should buy some books, and read them and not the internet. I can prove you wrong about what you said, and its published! Look for bookx from PHR or other 150+ pg books of engine work, and they'll EXPLAIN everything to you.


I'm KEITH HOUDA! www.youtube.com/cronsformula350

 

Wait, what?

 

That statement is utter B.S. Compression always affects the SPL output of an engine. More compression = bigger bang, everytime. This statement assumes that static compression is the ONLY variable between two engines. Take your 305, measure the SPL of the exhaust, up the static compression from 9.3:1 to 10.3:1 and it will be louder. This is always true.

You should learn not to put your words in other peoples mouths. I mentioned nothing about back pressure. But while we are on the topic, you say you don't need it, but then you contradict yourself stating that, "but, "BUT" on a cheap engine, it helps add torque due to that restriction."

One wants the least back pressure possible, there are compromises made to retain street legality, but a free flowing exhaust is always better. That does not mean however that you can't tune an exhaust with the use of expansion chambers to reflect the exhaust pulses back at the engine to help keep the fuel/air mixture in the cylinder. That however is a different argument so I'm not going into it.

There are many people who have tried, and quiet a few who have failed. If we take your statement at face value then we are talking about a otherwise factory stock car with the exception of longtubes and a custom exhaust. Stock tires, stock gears, stock trans, stock Torque converter or clutch...etc

I really don't care who you are, your name does not lend credence to your arguments.

 

You don't believe that?!

 

I have a better chance of smoking a fatty with Jesus.

 

Hater!

 

...or a realist.

 

Oh yeah that was the old motor, my car could have likely ran low 12's with a 4.44 or larger rear gear, so I'm pursuing that with this 305, and I can probably run mid 12's then drop in the 357 with th350 and 4300 stall, then the car will start high tens, lol, then cage time, nitro and 9's just wait, then NMCA next year.

I ran 0-60 with my 8.43:1 350, stock trans, gears, nittos, faulty posi. My gtech pro said I only used 267 hp to run a 3.96, or a 13.2 at 105mph, but the 267 hp for 0-60mph in that 3.96, yet the track at the 1/4 showed I was putting down 254 in 3rd gear with my 3000 stall, 3.27 posi, 700R4 with full shift kit, aluminum driveshaft, full rear suspension, car weighs in at 3470ish.

So that means my 305 right now, is about 275 hp, and I'll run just as fast, because now I can take advantage of the TPI intake. This motor pulls harder than any other stock TPI in a 305 or 350 I have ever been in, especially in 3rd. All stock, with a airfoil, 11-12* timing on a 350 tune, and I get great miles.

I'll have to show you guys, don't believe everything you read in the TGO board, my cars why holley wanted me to put advertising on my youtube, but I don't want that yet. Once my SouthSide Performance opens up, then I'll reconsider.

Keith Houda

 

i got a 92 firebird with a 305 tbi and im runing 202 hp and 268 tw to the rear wheels hopw much power is that to the crank you think

 

WIth an auto, you need to figure your "Rear Wheel" HP numbers are about 20% less than the HP at the crank, or the "Base Horse Power" or BHP.

With a manual, it's about 10-15% less than the base hp number. The only way to really know is to dyno the motor.

 

I know this thread is ancient but have you ever dyno'd it since you did those mods? Did you get a better stall or 6 spd in there? Again i know it's ancient but I wanna hear what you did.