Im really just learning as I go and don't know what all I should list I have replaced so I'll list most things that i think are relevant to this. New: spark plugs, wires, ignition module, coil, O2 sensor, redone heads, reman stock Q-jet.

I can get the car to start after a little too much cranking (probably) and it runs and idles almost perfect with some minor fluctuations of idle between 650-800 open and closed loop. The problem is that it still has no power when put in gear at all. It takes everything its got to reach 25 mph with very jerky stuttering acceleration but it never cuts off on me. I thought it might be a loss of comression but I hooked a vacuum gauge to the manifold and am getting anywhere from 18-23psi. Doesn't that mean that compression is ok? I am not getting any oil in my coolant or vice versa. The fuel pump is the original so I am leaning towards that but I don't know. I played around with the timing and have it set at 8*btdc because that's where it idles the best. The last time I drove it I also got a code 44.

So what do you think? maybe a failing fuel pump? or something else entirely?I am out of ideas!!!

 

Check firing order and make sure all of your plug wires connect to the plugs. My car will idle fine all day long with only 6 or 7 wires plugged into the plugs. I doubt that the fuel pump is the problem.

 

sounds like timing chain

 

I agree it sounds like timming chain. I thought about stopped up exhaust.

 

Ok I'll take a look at my timing chain. I'll also pull the cat to make sure it isn't clogged too. Would that cause a code 44 also or is that something completely different? I get hesitation when I give it gas also I don't know if that helps narrow it down at all.

 

Code 44 means the car is "running lean". What it really means is that there is still O2 in the exhaust. This may mean that some of the cylinders are not firing. There would be unburnt gas in the exhaust as well but the O2 sensor only senses oxygen.

 

I have to disagree about the timing chain. Changing it would be good, because stock chains stretch a fair bit, but first get the car running right.
I have twice changed chains in daily-driver 305 third-gens I've owned, and neither time did I end up happy. It made me a big believer in the value of 3-key timing sets, so the cam can be delayed 4 degrees.

 

LovnMyFbody, I've got the exact same problem. A 44 code and the same symptoms you have. I've been wondering if my timing was pulled and the car is in limp mode. I'll check my timing when I get a chance. But it sounds like we have identical problems.

Forgot to mention, I'm running an L69 carb on top of an 87 LG4 and the carb was rebuilt. Also I don't have a cat on the car so I'm not sure if your cat is the problem

 

I really don't think it's my cat either and i don't know what else to do about the timing.It was all over the place before I changed my ignition module and now it at least steadies out. That was the last thing I replaced. All my wires are connected to the right plugs also but i almost sounds like an electrical issue.

I should also mention that I was able to get the car to run perfect with plenty of power for one night after i played around with the curb idle a bit but my fast idle cam was too low as I noticed the next day I tried to start it. I have to give it gas until warm as it would not idle on its own so I adjusted the fast idle cam and then adjusted the curb idle to go with it. After I did that it went back to the way it was. I do notice a slight misfire but it's not that bad.

Let me know you findings though if you figure it out. How does it idle? I'm losing my mind over this and I don't want to replace anything else unless I have to!!

 

I found my MAP sensor vac line wasn't hooked up. Got some line, hooked it up, cleared the codes, tried to leave, it was stalling and running like garbage. And when I put it in gear and try to go it has no power and have to rev it up to get moving. On hills it will go up the hill then completely slow down and I have to get the clutch in to prevent stalling. I know we have a similar problem if not an identical one. Has your car sat around? I'm considering checking out my fuel filter as it could be that my filter is filled with junk because the car sat around for a couple years and there is all kinds of crap in the gas tank. Could be that the filter is clogged from that already.

I'm gonna check my MAP sensor and see if it is bad. Like I said earlier I had a code 44. The causes of that were fuel system problems, a bad MAP sensor, a bad O2 sensor, etc. Considering I just put in a new O2 sensor, I think its either the MAP or the fuel system is having issues.

 

The car sat over the winter because it was just too cold to work on. In February I replaced the carb and the fuel filter, starter, thermostat, battery & put fresh gas and carb fuel system cleaner in it. That is the first time i got the code 44 and I also got a code 32 once but my egr is pretty new I haven't gotten it since. No vacuum leaks anywhere that I can tell and my MAP is hooked up.

Does it take a lot of cranking to start and idle?

 

I just came back from the former Pontiac dealership. A guy there knows these CC Qjets. Said check the accelerator pump in the carb. Chances are that is sticking or not working right. Also said check the Check ball that is one of the first things you put in. Naturally I made sure I had everything in place. But chances are something might be up.

 

LovnmyFbody-

I went down, checked my connections etc. All the wires are tight, firing order is good, so I went ahead and disconnected my advance and timed it. It was exactly where I set it two months prior. 6* BTDC. So...in short I eliminated my timing. Funny thing though. It seems to run better without the timing advance connected. Is that a sign that might narrow anything down. Even my mom said it sounded good and smooth and she was in the house upstairs on the opposite side. Throttle response was much improved with the advance disconnected too. ECM perhaps?

 

L695speed have you by chance checked for a broken wire to your pickup coil? If it runs better with the vacum advance disconnected that could be your problem. an ohms test of the ign. coil maybe a good idea also.

Not sure if your 84 has vacum advance or not my memory ain't what it used to be

 

Maybe your memory isn't what it used to be . I've got the stock HEI setup, Electric Advance. Hence the confusion on why it runs better without the advance hooked up. Not sure what it is but it definitely isn't fuel related as proven by the smooth and very responsive throttle without the advance hooked up. I did rebuild most of the dizzy, replacing the coil on in the cap, the module (7 pins iirc) and rotor etc.

It sounds like from what you are suggesting, it could be in the dizzy itself, if not the coil in the cap. I didn't replace everything so its a possibility. But oh yea I'd be willing to bet I could drive it everyday, cross country and it will have no complaints based on the way it ran without the advance hooked up. Definitely something that has some kind of relationship to the computer because that seems to be the common denominator.

Stupid me, there is a pickup coil in the electric advance one too. I just missed it. Its easy to test and just requires me to get the pickup coil if its bad, which it probably is because I didn't replace it when I did all the work on the dizzy. The accelerator pump was a good idea, but the fact that the car reved freely and responsively and idled perfectly without the advance hooked up had me thinking it was not fuel related.

 

The camaro also ran better without the timing advance connected. It still studdered a bit while driving but it wasn't too bad. Heres the thing though it only ran like that for a night. The next day I went to start it up and it was all i could do to get that car home as if it was in limp mode or just because there was no timing advance which makes sense. I have not even thought about the pickup coil though. But since my coil and module are brand new it could be that or the ecm. I wish I could afford to ditch the damn thing.

 

LovnmyFbody, here is what I found. folks, I tore apart my distributor, and it seems like I did indeed find my problem and it was with the pickup coil.

Here are the pics. Just the bad stuff but its self explanatory.






Any thoughts on this are welcome.

 

Never Seen one that bad before.
Any signs that the reluctor wheel struck the pickup coil?

 

Reluctor wheel? And yea I agree that it is bad, even explains why it won't run right with the advance hooked up. I have a very good suspicion that it is the original one.

 

ok so i finally got a chance to pull my distributor apart and found that the pickup coil is shot. looks just like those pictures. i am going to install another one once this rain clears up.

 

At least you found something was up. You will get the whole pickup coil assembly when you get it. Just screw it in and you are done. I can't confirm for you whether or not it worked for me because mine turned into a bigger project because the dizzy bolt broke when i went to reinstall it. Had to drill out that and when I took off the carb one of those bolts did the same thing. So now that both have heli coils in them I'm gonna get an intake gasket set and put it all back together. Good Luck with yours. My indication that it wasn't fuel related was when it smoothed out and had instant power and response when it was gassed, with the advance disconnected. if it was fuel related it would have ran just as bad with the advance disconnected.

 

I'll probably get another one later this week after i get paid and this raid clears up. I also had no hesitation with the advance disconnected. Let me know what you find out and I'll do the same!

 

I've got the distributor back in, carb back on, everything is getting hooked up and so on. I might end up having to jump it back to life but I should have an answer for you as to whether or not it fixed my problem either tonight or in the next day or so.

 

Waiting for that answer. Been fighting with my stumbly *** motor forever now.

 

LOL. Well I got it started tonight. I had a smoother idle, and better throttle response with the advance connected, but it wasn't right. My guess is I missed the timing so I'm gonna have to retime the ignition. My idle was a lil high after it warmed up and when I killed it and restarted it it popped out the carb once or twice. But it started up and ran for a few minutes before I killed it. I have a Check Engine light on but I decided to call it a night before I screwed something up due to lack of decent lighting. I'm gonna get back to work on my mom's car tomorrow but if I can't get those bolts loose on hers I'm gonna soak it again in penetrating oil and get to work on the Trans Am. So I think I fixed my problem but I can't say for certain yet.

I'll keep you guys posted.

 

Update, still close but no cigar. I can't seem to find a steady idle without the advance hooked up. Tooth off on the dizzy maybe? The car will start and run for a couple minutes and die at the longest. I have not messed with my carb settings since I got it running right before and doubt they are an issue. Or it will die when I try to bump the idle down. Sounds like I'm off with the dizzy to me.

 

Ok so I have the new pick-up coil assembly and installed it. But the teeth on the distributor shaft are touching the teeth on the pick-up coil!! The teeth on the shaft look a little worn and for some reason the pole piece where i put the C-clip does not want to come out, it's stuck and I'm thinking that is the reason why they touch because of me not being able to fully seat the coil.

Any input? I do NOT want to have to buy a whole new distributor! If that didn't make sense I'll take pics and post them.

 

I had the exact same problem. My car would idle properly but when i hit the throttle there was a lot of hesitation. As soon as i took it out on the road you could tell it was missing really bad. Turns out my Number 3 and 5 plug wires got mixed up. I felt stupid but it completely fixed my problem. Check the obvious and make sure all your plug wires are connected properly and all your plugs are gapped correctly.

 

Ok so everything is back together, new pickup coil installed. It still runs the same as it did. It does not even want to idle correctly after it warms up. As of now all my ignition components have been replaced. Checked spark plugs, they are gapped correctly and my wires are not mixed up. I don't know what else to check. Any more ideas?

 

This might sound stupid, but are you getting cross fire across your wires? Also a guy I talked to at a former Pontiac dealership said it could be the accelerator pump in the carb. Said most of the time when he gets that complaint its the accelerator pump or the check ball is stuck. I put all mine back together, but never got a chance to take if for a test drive. Dizzy went in no problems exactly the way it did before. Then when I started it I saw I had no oil pressure at all. Killed it, re checked the dizzy to make sure it engaged the oil pump, it did, checked the sender, was solid, started it again, no oil pressure, yes I had oil in it. It just started to run bad when I killed it, considering the relationship between the dizzy and the oil pump it might also explain why I'm running like crap. I've got a bad oil pump. Engine didn't sieze, but I'm done with the motor. Either gonna build it up (350-400 Horsepower) or rebuild the original or get an L69 longblock and drop it in and go. Either way, I'm out for a while. I hope you figure yours out. Good Luck.

 

I'll check to make sure my wires arent crossfiring but I am really just out of ideas and am tired of messing with the car getting no results. It might even come down to selling it. I'll post my findings anyway though.

 

Did you ever get your motor running? My lg4 developed a very similar problem to this today.