i got a 350 to replace my 305, it's all rebuilt and it comes with this cam in it http://cranecams.com/index.php?show=...92&lvl=2&prt=5
but i was told this cam is too big for a street car, should i get something smaller? or use it and get a high stall converter?

 

that depends on the heads, compression, intake, etc. you will likely need 2500 stall or so.

 

for heads it has a set of 882's poted with stock valve size but they look like they were milled, the guy a got the engine from didn't know anything about it, and the block has flat top pistons but i might get a set of aluminum Vortec heads
it also came with a Weiand tunel ram intake but i'll be using the Edelbrock RPM intake i have on the 305 (if i don't get the Vortec's)

 

you have the right idea. get the vortecs.

 

Way too much cam... Won't start working till around 3,000 RPM, a bit high for the street. A higher stall converter would help, but a higher stall speed means more slippage, slippage translates to heat and another problem for street usage. I suggest a much milder cam.

I'd also suggest getting all the details on your heads and pistons, then armed with that check out the cam selection software (free download) on the Comp Cams website. If you input accurate information concerning your engine and the rest of the car it will provide a very accurate recomendation for what cam will give you optimal performance.

But then, if you just want one of the "poser cams" that sounds kewl but performs like poo poo, the crane cam you've linked to would be acceptable!

 

No i'm not looking for no "poser cam" but a nice slightly loppy sound yes, something on a 110LSA, but i guess i need to get the heads first then

 

In a perfect world, the heads determine the cam.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT
are this ones any good?
the price is pretty good, i'll be doing some side work, a cam swap on a 5.7 hemi, it might pay for this

 

the lift is not too big it's the duraation you want to watch out for.mine is a 218/228/.525.525 and runs good

 

Rather then just guess on a cam or go by 2nd hand information on how it worked in someone else's engine that is probably totally different from yours you might want to check out Comp Cams "Cam Quest" software...if you put in correct information it will recomend the cam and other valve train components necessary to make the engine work right!!! Heck, it's even a free download!

 

[QUOTE=radical82;4554892]Way too much cam... Won't start working till around 3,000 RPM, a bit high for the street. A higher stall converter would help, but a higher stall speed means more slippage, slippage translates to heat and another problem for street usage. I suggest a much milder cam.
QUOTE]



Jake

 

What the hay. Put on the performer RPM, a 2550 stall converter and run it. See how it works. If you dont like it. You can always change it later.

 

Running a 242, 248 at .050 solid roller with .570, .576 lift. Idles and runs fine on the street. 3000 stall converter, stock radiator and flex-a-lite 180 fan in 95 degree weather all year and no overheating what so ever. This cam was a great fit in comp cams software .

 

The cam that comes in your 350 is a 228/234, and i'm assuming hydraulic flat tappet. I didn't notice the LSA listed? I don't recall off the top of my head how to calculate it either (lil help?)

That's very similar to the compxe268HE (had it) or the Lunati 60103 (had it). All excellent cams. You need high compression and a bigger stall speed. 3000RPM stall speed and Vortec heads and that'd be a BLAST.
I had those cams with ported 416 heads and a T-10 tranny. Very fun car.

I'm a big fan of big cams though, I don't drive to buy groceries in this car though, so a daily driver might be annoying. I found 24* base timing, 36* all in, with about 14* of vacuum advance at idle worked best. No vacuum reservoir required for brakes.
10:1 CR is a good thing too, FYI.

 

Please dont anyone laugh but I run 240/240 @050, 112 lsa, 560/560 hyd. roller with a 2,300 stall converter. Tried a 3,500 stall and hated it. This car drives very nice on the street and is scary fast.

 

I took a look at comp cams cam matching software. It didnt list my cyl heads (Trick Flow Twisted Wedge) nor did it list any option for modified TPI intake. I dont see how it could accurately match a cam to a combo like mine. Was I missing something?

 

Looks like a nice combo doc. Most people are too scared of losing drivability and don't try out stuff. So lots of people would say certain things are too much for the street. If you want good gas mileage, v8's aren't for you. If you wanna have as much fun as possible, try stuff out before saying it's too much.

 

well i decided to run it, I'll get a 2400 stall and a set of Procomp heads will see how it runs, by the way this cam is on a 106 LSA so it's going to sound nice

 

OK, the ProComp heads got here today 210cc intake runners 2.05 intake valves, 1.6 exhaust 64cc chambers but they came with dual springs for a roller cam up to 650 lift, can't use that on flat tapets can i?

 

These roller springs will work fine with a flat tappet cam. The reason for specifying "roller springs" is that aggressive roller profiles can cause failure of "non-roller" springs. The difference is silicone content in the spring alloy.

A high performance roller cam has much faster ramps, meaning that it opens and closes the valve much more quickly than a flat tappet cam of similar duration. This is why a roller cam, of a given duration, can produce significantly more power than a flat tappet cam.

For your own information, compare lift numbers on your flat tappet cam choice with lift numbers on a hydraulic roller cam of about the same duration. Youll find that the roller cam's lift numbers are significantly higher. You can also set the two cams beside each other and see a noticeable difference in the lobe profiles. The flat tappet lobes will be egg shaped with small lobe tips while the roller lobes are more oval with large round tips. The tip of the lobe is where the valve is fully open. A flat tappet couldnt follow these aggressive roller lobes but a roller tappet can follow any shape.

The lobe profile of a flat tappet cam is limited by the size of the tappet surface about 13/16". The cam lobe has to run on that circle without touching the edge. Hydraulic roller cam profile is limited somewhat by the weight and the pressure capacity of hydraulic tappet but still gives the lobe designer much more freedom.

My point if you havent already guessed it is, why would anyone, class racing rules aside, waste their time building an engine with a flat tappet cam?

 

things have changed a little i have a Comp Cams XE284-10 and yes the springs are perfect for it, Comp recommends 322lbs and the ones on the heads are 325lbs i just have to remove the inner springs during cam brake in.
I was thinking about the roller cams but can't really afford it right now, I'm not going to put the engine together yet so if i do another side job i might still consider the roller stuff but for now flat tappets are the plan and for the price i can change cam and lifter once a year

 

Yeah, I come off kinda strong on the subject, I know. Ive built plenty of flat tappet motors for NASCAR guys. Some classes require flat tappets. I know that retro rollers can be pricey too. Im sure youll have fun with this motor and it will run like the devil.

Just remember, for any given idle quality, a roller cam will give you way more tire smoke. LOL. Good luck man

Doc

 

Hey, Sorry if I come off a little strong on this subject. Ive built plenty of flat tappet motors. Mostly for local NASCAR guys whos class rules require flat tappet cams. I also understand how pricey retro rollers can be. Im sure your motor will be alot of fun with the XE 284.

BTW, I use Oregon Cam Grinding and have all my cams custom ground. With cam and lifters I save about 30% off Comp Cams prices. You might want to check out a local cam grinder in your area. Ive been real pleased with the results from Oregon Cams. They can reproduce any grind you want and will give you a cam card like you wont get from Comp.