I'm wondering if there is a large difference between a starter for an automatic or standard?

I am apparently having a hot soak problem and was pricing them online and noticed they are different models and prices.

They pretty much look the same though.

 

Only difference in starters is what size flywheel / flexplate they fit.
153 or 168 tooth

Most aftermarket Mini starter will fit both styles.There are no auto or manual starters

Read
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...-failures.html

 

Have you tested all the other possibilities with the starter circuit? Chances are it's NOT the starter- my starter was touching my headers for 3 years, never had any heat soak issues with it - heat soak is a thing of the past - test and retest the entire starter circuit first. austinthirdgen.org has a great wite-up in their tech articles.

 

As I understand it, a manual starter will work on an auto car, but an auto starter will not work on a manual car. In 3rd gens, they are all 153-teeth, so that isn't the difference.

I solved my "heat soak" problem with a remote starter solenoid.

 

I found that everything is working down to the starter. It left me sitting for an hour today until it cooled down enough to work.
I read that you can do the remote start thing by using a Ford solenoid? It doesn't look all that hard, so if I keep having problems I may give it a try. I would also like to change the battery cable to a new 2 gauge wire as well.

In the meantime, I'm exchanging the starter tomorrow since it's under warranty. My last starter didn't do this, so I'll see how well another does.

 

1. I use a regular LT1 automatic car starter on my T56/Gen I sbc. I used my old 700r4 starter for quite a while also. I dont see why they wouldnt be interchangable, I've gone through enough permutations of them without incident I wouldnt worry about it.

2. My old 700r4 automatic starter was not a ministarter and had serious heatsoak problems if the car had been running more than about 5-10 minutes. It didnt have a problem with the 305. It didnt have a problem with the 305 and the long tube headers. It only had a problem after the 350 swap. More heat, more compression... I odnt know what it was, but it'd need about 10 minutes to cool back down before it would turn the engine over fast enough to start reliably. I tried wrapping it with insulation and I also did a remote solenoid. The insulation helped a wee bit, but not enough to make the problem tolerable. It was still dead in the water for a few minutes. The remote(Ford) solenoid did absolutely NOTHING for me. The useless insulation helped more than the solenoid.

To the OP, if you want my solenoid, you can have it, $20 shipped. I recommend you just get a newer ministarter though. They're more than worth it. The engine turns over so much faster it cranks MUCH easier. Then there's the weight savings, and then no more heat soak. It's awesome. Or you can add a remote solenoid that may or may not work.

 

Mine took almost an hour today before it would work. Sometimes the solenoid doesn't even kick.

Does that include the cables?

 

Exactly, the problem is the snout. It's different and won't fit on the bellhousing.

 

The starter was cracked on the aluminum housing.

My battery also went bad.

Talk about coincidences.

 

I have a pre-86 motor w/ a TKO that will ONLY work with the metric FWD/standard starter. They actually work fairly well when they're 100%, but Ive found that they periodically need to be rebuilt. The thing that causes this is dirty conacts at the solenoid, and oxidation on the commutator. If you let it go, it gets to the point where the car just wont turn over. You might want to also check the backlash between teh starter pinion/flywheel ring gear. If its too close, the bendix will get stuck half-way due to lack of clearance and the starter will not engage, causing a no-start. This can also be the cause of cracked starter housings.

 

The starter was cracked and the battery also went bad, which is weird.

 

i bought a Summit Racing SUM-829100 - Summit Racing® Mini High-Torque Starters for a 111 works like a charm befor i went through 6 in 5 months

 

codyhoward89cam - I have a 305 also, how difficult was it to switch out the OEM starter for the Summit Mini-Starter SUM829100? Did it mount right up to the OEM bracket? And did you have to shim the starter?