Ok I have a question.
I asked in the electronics section and got a little help but now I'm stumped. I have all the bulbs working with the hazards but nothing with T/S lever. the Lever won't stay in place when applied for right and clicks into place when applying the left but no blinking of exterior light bulbs. I replaced and tested flasher the flasher is good but nothing when T/S is applied. fuse is good help please. stock 89 rs 305tbi

 

Perhaps something below will be of help.

Troubleshooting Hints:

Turn Lights

If all turn lights don't flash:

Check turn B/U fuse by operating back up lights.
Check turn flasher, turn-hazard switch, and related wiring.

If only one turn light doesn't flash, check that its ground is clean and tight.
If both front or both rear turn lights don't work, check turn-hazard switch and related wiring.

Hazard Lights

If no lights flash in "hazard":

Check stop haz fuse by operating stop lights.
Check hazard flasher, turn-hazard switch, and related wiring.

If only one hazard light doesn't flash, check that its ground is clean and tight.

Stop Lights

If both stop lights don't go on:

Check stop haz fuse by operating hazard lights.
Check that common ground is clean tight.
Check brake switch, lt blu wire and G304.

JamesC

 

First, check for power at any one of the dark blue, dark green, light blue, or yellow wires at the long connector under the steering collumn, with the key on and turn signal switch in both left and right turn positions. If there is power at any of the wires, check turn signal bulbs and grounds. If there is no power at any of these wires, check the dark blue wire to the turn signal flasher for power with key on. If no power check for power at the Turn, B/U fuse. If there is power at this wire, check for power at the purple wire from the flasher to the T/S switch.

Check for power on this wire at both sides of the long, flat connector at the bottom of the steering colunm. It is common for wires to break or terminals to be pulled out at this connector. If you have power out of the connector on the purple wire, remove steering wheel and test for power at the purple wire at the switch. If there is power there, and none of the turn signals light, replace T/S switch.

 

thank you thank you thank you

 

I checked it out and everything dealing with the switch was OK. The switch is in tight and when I took off the steering column lock then the cancel cam fell out and the lever was loose. with the cam out I grabbed the actual switch with my hand and VIOLA the lights worked. So I think that if I get a cancel cam and a new lever I will be fine. HOW does that sound?

 

Hmm. Im not sure. Im trying to picture what youve got. The cancel cam attaches to the switch by the same screw that retains the lever. Did the screw back out? I know you can buy just the cam. Maybe that will work for you. Just be sure nothing else is broken.

 

Yeah the cam usually fixes it... costs about $8 or so in the Help! section. You could really go whole-hog and stop by your local buzzard and pick up another lever, even.

 

I took another look at the switch when I got home and from what I can see the cam (the piece that moves and turns on the signals when you move the lever) it is a little loose I thought it might be because of a loose tilt steering wheel but it isn't. It's because of the cam is held to the switch by a couple of hooks that are supposed to be holding the entire assembly together tightly. Now I guess over time and use instead of having to use a screwdriver to pry the hooks apart to seperate the cam and switch it's loose enough to just use your fingers.

imagine taking a wire harness that has the hooks on it to keep it from coming apart and breaking one of the ears that hold it. it will not hold as tight and now you won't need a screwdriver to pry them apart.

if I use just one of the screws and in the switch to hold it in and then apply just a little pressure on the front of the cam. move the lever it works perfectly but it won't stay tight. A new cam that hasn't had the plastic rubbed down under the switch hooks from 20 years of use would do the trick. But I'm the type that if I do that much I might as well replace everything new and don't worry about it for another 20 years

Thank you all for you r help I don't know why some people thought this job was so hard it's not that hard.

 

I would agree with replacing the switch. However, just so you know, the screw thaq retains the lever to the cam extends through the cam and also holds the cam in place. Unless the cam is damaged or the metal hub into which the screw threads is damaged. The wire "hooks" are simply the switch return springs.

 

thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I got the switch put in and it was the switch or at least the cams but if I got it torn apart I went ahead and put in the whole switch. I got two problems:

1. the bearing that is in the steering column behind the steering wheel is coming apart and I don't know what to ask for at the parts store or how to take it out to replace

2. for the life of me I can't remember how to put the steering wheel, cam, and lock plate back together

would someone please help this rookie? If I can finish this and put the proper tranny bolts in I can drive my car. What kind of bolts go in the tranny mount anyway?

 

[IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/Office2/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-2.png[/IMG][IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/Office2/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-3.png[/IMG]I got it. sorry I should have did a search in the suspension forum first I found an old post by WARD and he explained it and drew a pict thanks

 

Pics/info in the following link may be helpful:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...-steering.html

Are you talking about mount to trans or mount to cross member (If this latter the mount will have the bolt)?

JamesC

 

these are the mount to tranny bolts when I bought the car the bolts were not in the tranny and you can see where the old tranny had been jumping in the tranny tunnel and hitting the body

 

Should be Bolt, Hex (M10 X 1.5 X 35).

JamesC

 

Does your car have a tilt wheel?

 

yes it has tilt steering and I have it back together thank you all for all of your help. all of it was excellent advice. all I have to do is heat shrink some of the wires that the PO cut including the fuel pump relay wires and hook up a fan switch. get an inspection.

I will drive for about a year like this with the 305 then on to my 350 and between now and then I will rebuild my pull down lock and get the wiring right on that and reinstall some fog lights.

 

another problem here goes:

I was repairing some wires from where the PO like an idiot cut the wires and added an inline switch to turn the FPump on and off. but when I first bought the car the fpump still would prime and shut off like it was supposed to. then when I went under the hood and used wire connectors to hold the wires instead of tape then the fpump started to prime and will not stop until I shake the relay. even when I take the key out I have to shake the relay. I told my wife its probably getting stuck. It is 21years old. if that does not do it for $17 then I will test the oil pressure switch. But it only started when I bothered the relay. thanks everybody!!!!!!!! You know other than a tranny this thing doesn't have major probs. but I have to admit these elect. probs. are giving me more of a headache than the tranny.

 

Quality repair is the key to developing a dependable vehicle. Each repair we make can either be a strong link or a weak link depending on how we perform it. There is a correct way to do everything. There are many incorrect ways. To repair the fuel pump drive, follow the factory diagram, verify that each component is working properly and that all connections are tight and that any splices are either soldered and wrapped in heat shrink tubing or done using heat shrink butt connectors and a "Klein" or equivalent crimping tool.

 

I did some digging looks like they must have had some probs with the relay or more than likely with the VATS and tried or thought they had to hack the Fpump to get the fuel to the engine this will take some time but I think I can return it to original condition. Thanks ASE you have inspired me. and yes VATS is bypassed

89 rs 305 700r4

 

got it. it was the relay thanks now on to another issue.

 

I tried to drive my car actually I drove it about a total of 40miles this car is fast. Now I know why my father did not let me have a v8 when I was 16 I acted a nut.

Problem I the only thing I did under the car other than tranny was change the rearend oil and put in a tranny mount. there were periods when ONLY when turning the steering wheel ever so slightly and then even when going straight the back wheels seemed to lock up as if they did not want to turn. Both sides of the car were like this.

My dad said to take the tranny mount back out that it could be putting the dshaft into a bind (it is alot thicker/taller than the previous one) but the old one was so mangled I don't what it was supposed to look like I got the new one from advance auto. He said if not that then it was the rearend ( I didn't have this problem until now) or the wheel bearings (but both sides at once?) and of course its throwing some codes I'll get back to you with those later. OHHH I did adjust my TV cable it was way out of adjustment. Please help!!!!!!!!!!!