Hydraulic Roller
.510 .533
288 294
232 236 @.050

Probe Flat Top Forged Pistons
Forged I Beam Rods
Proform 750 DP Carb, Accel HEI Distributor
Aluminum Proform heads (builder buys the bare castings, then fully ports them, 5 angle valve job, installs good valves, springs, etc). He said the heads really arent bad but do need cleanup. If fully ported they are really hard to beat for the price.
10.5:1 Compression (maybe slightly less)
1 Year Warranty


And the age old "guess my HP" question. Hoping for upper 400's...

 

do you mean procomp heads?

 

yes procomp, thanks.... I have seen a lot of talk about them, apparently they were awful originally but the newer castings are a lot better. They still don't seem to be overly consistent from head to head, but with a little cleanup I'm hoping they will be fine. I am looking for a low reving torquey street motor, i knowif i'm skimping anywhere its on the heads... Can always add AFR's later right?

 

"Can always add AFR's later right?"...unless a valve seat falls out which i heard of with those heads.

 

That's why they buy the bare castings, install their own valves, etc., and go over them completely. They are the ones that choose those heads, and warranty the entire engine for a year

 

why are you having a new engine built? the one in your signature looks good. I have dart heads on mine too.

 

After 300 miles on that engine, the block is ruined. One of the starter holes is badly chipped, and it can't be fixed. Since i have to pull the engine anyway, i decided to go a little overboard. I'm going to sell the dart heads/forged innternals out of the other engine. I thought about buying a shortblock and moving my heads/cam, but I wanted to go with aluminum heads so i could run a higher compression ratio, and why not go full roller?

I can upgrade to a 3 year warranty, might not be a horrible idea with the procomp heads as metioned above

 

If the heads are that good I would run lots more lift and maybe cut back on the duration
Guys are only running 230 /236 dur ( w/ .575 lift ) on high revving 383's

What intake?

 

I'm running 224/224 now on a 350 and its pretty mild. I would think on a 383 230/236 with a full roller, and 110 LSA it wouldn't be an issue? Power Range on that cam is listed as 2500-5700. I wouldnt say the heads are going to be on line with AFR's or other top of the line heads by any stretch, but they should flow plenty, especially at ~500 lift to make a lot of torque. Hoping I can get over 400ft-lbs for the cam's listed powerband. I still have the stock rear end but 3.73 posi, so I will have to avoid sticky tires for a while.

I might do 1.6 rockers to raise the lift, but if i get it too high it will probably hurt given the heads. I appreciate the input on the cam, it's not too late to go with anything else. I really want it to be as streetable as possible even if I sacrifice some HP (I still have power brakes, need vaccuum). Most likely Edelbrock Performer Air-Gap, but not 100% sure on that yet either. Car looks pretty much stock, could be a good sleeper

 

Get a performer rpm intake portmatched to the heads. That cam will want to go to 6300-6400 rpm easily and a good dual plane is a good match. Run 1.6 rockers to get that lift up. It will need it.

If the heads are ported right and good components are added, it should spin up very well and make very high 400's maybe 500 hp+. Close to if not over 400whp. Make sure the builder puts on good valve springs...something with over 135lbs on the seat and 380-ish open pressure or abit more to control valve float in the 6000+ rpm range. Beehives wouldnt be a bad idea or a typical LSx style small diameter double spring

 

Thanks for the advice. I am meeting with him Monday to go over the specifics, he will be port matching the intake either way.

He said the non roller-version of this combo (same cam specs) produced 465hp@5500rpm/512@ft-lbs@4500rpm on a engine dyno, i guess it's believable. If i get those numbers with the roller version i'll be happy.

 

my outside starter bolt whole was also chipped i'd say a 1/4 of it was gone. my local machine shop was able to fixe it did a great job almost looks like it never happened. built it up with nickel and redrilled.

 

hmmm.. Maybe i should leave the engine completely intact and take it to a machine shop. I was just about to pull the heads off..