I can't get a defined answer when I try to find out if its a 307, 327 or a 350





o

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...010-block.html

The suffix code stamped on front of block will tell you what it was
when it left the factory

 

That's the problem, there is no vin in that location

 

That's ok, the VIN doesn't tell you anything useful.

3941174 has a 3.25" stroke, 3970010 has a 4" bore, so it's a 327.

 

But the factory suffix code does

http://www.nastyz28.com/gm-chevy-cod...s-suffix-2.php

 

So your block has previously been machined, anything could have happened to it in 40 years
It was the 2 or 3 digit suffix code you were after ; not the VIN

 

A BLOCK is not an ENGINE so it doesn't have a CID "size". It's a 4" bore block.

It was used in the 302, 327, and 350, but not the 307 which has a different bore.

It's not a "350" or whatever until it gets a crank installed into it. Meantime, it's just a block.

Doesn't matter which of its possible sizes it started out life as, unless you're building a "numbers matching" type of restoration. None of that left any trace in it. Iron has no memory. Attempting to determine what it "was" when it was new is a futile non-productive waste of mental energy which only serves to demonstrate to people who know what they're doing, that you're a n00b, and makes them laugh at you behind your back. Your energy should instead be devoted to working on what it WILL BE next.

The crank that's in it is a low-perf cast crank for a 327, so that's what it IS now, regardless of whatever it STARTED OUT as. Perfect thing to throw in the trash and get a 383 crank instead. If the block is even any good: check how far it's been bored before making any plans for it.

 

It's just .060 over

 

Nothing useful. When the block's not even the original color anymore, there's not a lot of reason to suspect that anything inside is the same as it was from the factory.

 

"Just .060 over" is the same as saying "bored out to the point where most blocks become scrap metal the next time they need a rebuild".

 

It won't need another rebuild untill 10ish years from now and I'm sure my car will be scrap by then anyway lol

 

The "next" one is the build you're on right now.

 

End of the road. It goes no farther.

Probably why it has that crap crank in it.

If the cyl walls aren't PERFECT and you're looking to build a motor, might as well start looking for another one right away; because that one is done.

 

Ok I understand you now, it do.t need to be bored or horned again just needs to be put together

 

Sure it does, there's rust visible in the bores.

 

'86-up one piece seal engines leak less.
'87-up allow use of OEM style roller cam lifters (less $ than aftermarket lifters)
Anything those years and newer will be less prone to bore wear than that old worn out block, even when it was new.

 

looks like your generic 70's 010 block (any 4 inch bore CID engine) extremely common. Rebuildable 350 blocks are a dime a dozen, if it needs any machine work I'd look for a 1 piece rms block with factory roller pervisions

 

Bottom line: It's nothing special in any manner way shape or form, rather it's about the most commonplace run-of-the-mill block you'll ever run into, with a crappy crank stuck in it. If it works, run it and enjoy it (or not); if it needs work, it's not rebuildable, and it's time to find another, which might as well be a late-model w roller provisions.