DirtyRedneck

Ok so here is the saga of the Camaro that would never run. I bought this car 4 years ago with an engine knock. We trailered the car home and tore the engine down, cleaned it meticulously and started putting it back together. We got the block all back together and then dropped it off at my dads friends shop. My dad and his friend put the rest of the car back together but it still doesn't start. It has a brand new starter in it, it has spark, and is turns over but it won't start. It is a 2.8 liter V6 automatic and it is carbureted. We've tried jumping it and pouring some gas in the carb and sometimes it sounds like it's just about to start but it never does. I have over 2K into this car and I've given up on it. I have it up for sale for $750 and nobody wants it. At this point I'm about to sell it to the junkyard if I can't get it to run and then sell it. If anyone can help I would greatly appreciate it but I've come to the conclusion that no one can fix this car. My dad's friend is an ASE certified mechanic and he couldn't fix it and my dad used to be a diesel mechanic and has been working on his own cars since he was 16. But if anyone has any suggestions, I will try anything.

HeavyThundar

have you checked the compression?

88cam23

So you cleaned the motor have you replaced any of the internals?


Checked the basics?


Fuel,Ignition,Compression,Spark?

DirtyRedneck

No, we haven't. We just assumed that with it being a completely rebuilt engine that we would try a few other things before we worry about the compression.

DirtyRedneck

This engine has been completely rebuilt from the ground up. Everything on it is new. The car also has a new starter, water pump, and torque converter. The car has spark and turns over but won't start. We aren't 100% sure that it's getting fuel but we can hear the electric fuel pump come on when we turn the key. We've also checked the ground straps and they're fine as well. The battery is good and the starter is brand new.

FNFAL308

iTrader: (1)

At this point, in my opinion, the worst thing you can do is assume that it was put together correctly because they are both experienced pros. Evidently something is wrong.

Of course I'm not there and don't know enough about it, but if it is getting fuel and spark at the plugs you should get it to start (even if poorly) unless the timing is off.

I would check the dist first with top dead center on #1 (not 180 off), advance it about 10 degrees, make sure plug wires are on correct cylinders. Check for start.

No start then I would check compression. No compression make sure valve adjustment is correct. If valves are adjusted correctly, I would make sure valves are opening and closing at the correct time.

If I was in doubt I would pull timing chain cover off and triple check the marks on the timing gears (because you want to be sure before putting cover back on).

Try again. Don't flood it by putting to much gas down the carb.

I am assuming that the two mechanics didn't put it together with no rings, burnt valves, etc.

But, yes, many on here could get that car running no problem. An ASC cert tech doesn't mean he knows about carbed cars and there is no plugin for a diagnostic machine on yours. And a diesel mechanic doesn't know much about distributors. Not knocking them, as they would run rings around me in those areas.

The diesel mech does know about fuel so I am assuming you are getting gas correctly to the carb. The ASC tech does know you need spark so again I am assuming that you have a spark. That leaves a simple mistake made somewhere. Be patient and work thru it.

88cam23

I am certainly not a pro on these motors. But also check the fuel pressure at the fuel rail. U said u poured fuel into the intake? U would think if its getting good spark it would rumble,spit,back fire do some thing when it ignites that fuel.

HeavyThundar

As both members have hit on, even if you had a improperly working carb, if you poured some down the throat and had proper fire/compression/timing, the engine should sputter over for a few short seconds.

I agree on checking the distributor properly installed on #1, checking firing order, checking valve adjustment, timing marks, and compression.

Keep at it, and don't give up on it.

DENN_SHAH

iTrader: (1)

does it sound ok when cranking?
when i have a cranks good/no start, fuel and spark are pretty much the first things i check, followed by ignition timing and then compression.

you didn't mention if you replaced the camshaft or not.
in addition to whats been said, just because it was assembled right doesn't mean its assembled right. confusing?
not when you've seen timing chain sets that were marked wrong and camshafts that were ground wrong.
either timing gear could be marked wrong so both need to be checked.
i learned long ago when doing a timing chain job before putting them on to match up the new timing gears up with the old ones and then to start the motor after the new chain set is on but before reassembling the rest of the
parts.
i've seen more than 1 cam ground wrong.
that can be a pain to pin point especially when your not the one who put it in.
to check the cam, you will need a degree wheel and dial indictor.
if you reused the old cam, it should be fine.
if you did put a new cam and lifters in and its a flat tappet, with very much
cranking its probably already starting to wipe out the lobes.

if need be, you can use a degree wheel and dial indictor to check the
timing chain set too.

Jeffs82TA

iTrader: (1)

I say you have a mechanic who is used to working on a typical small block chevy and has the firing order wrong. I've seen some who set timing by #1 on drivers side and think a 2.8 then is numbered like a small block.

I would see if this is the case. Notice in picture #1 on a 2.8 is actually completely reversed from a small block

ex-x-fire

If you set the dist. in while the timing chain marks were dot to dot, then your 180* out at the dist.
Both have to be at 12 o'clock postion, just like a sbc.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

+1 on the two posts prior to this one.

The other area is valve adjustment. It is done like a SBC, zero lash + 1 turn. I mention this as many service manuals call for a torque spec on the rocker adjustment. Which is wrong and ends up holding the valves open.

RBob.

HeavyThundar

Any updates?

mvrb1124

I just rebuilt a 2.8 and had a heck of a time adjusting the valves. Had to do it three times before I got it right! But when I did, it fired right up on first crank. Go back to the procedure in the Haynes manual for adjusting valves and follow them explicitly.... Hint, when I had it right I noticed that all the rocker stud had about 4 threads showing above the adjusting nut. If too far down(too tight) the valves wont close all the way and you lose compression, so much so that you can put all the gas and fire to it you want to, but there is no way it will start. Hope this helps!