been having bad overheat problems ever since it started to get warm/hot outside. Overheating, overflow coolant tank bubbling like a champagne bottle, etc etc. I did everything i could before deciding to take the heads off and replace head gaskets. Lo and behold I find this, #14 in the passenger side head bolt, broke. I have no idea how this could have happened other than someone over torquing the bolt, but my guess is that its a stock bolt.

So now I'm worried because i know its stuck in the block, and I could use some advice on how to get these threads out? its not like i have multiple chances here, if i screw up the block its a done deal.

and i just think its really weird how that broke, is it common? yes, i took the bolts off in opposite order in case anyone wants to know. And I'm also guessing this will be the cause of my overheating issue?

 

Well that sucks. I feel your pain on this one. Removing broken bolts can be a time. You have a couple of options. 1. Try an easy-out. Most auto part stores carry them. 2. Drill it, tap it and heli coil it. Also at auto part stores.

I doubt this bolt has anything to do with your overheating problem. It sounds like you're not getting good circulation through the system. Are your cooling fan(s) working? Have your checked/replaced your thermostat? The water pump could also be the problem.

Not sure if I helped much. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

Steve

 

that what i was thinking but I've tried drilling and tapping a bolt before and the dam tap broke off into it. its happened twice, so I'm pretty leery on that stuff...i tried the one with reverse threads and the one that has a square shape that you hammer in and drill out. to no avail.
well, if the bolt broke and it caused the head to lose its integrity seal, then sure why not, it could cause overheat or the gasket to become ruined. thats just my guess though, I didn't know if someone has dealt with something like this before. i pulled the driver side head today and the gasket was in pretty good condition so I'm guessing its all in the passenger side head (where the broken head bolt was)

fan works, the relays work, i did a new stock thermostat, i did a 180* stat, the water pump is brand new (yes its on the right way and its the right one) I tried running straight water, new hoses, yadda yadda. everything. this was the last resort. I also had the smoke upon start up. trust me i did a looottt of searching and whatnot before i underwent this operation. thanks for the insight also. ill most likely pick up on this project on thursday, ill get more pics of the passenger side head also when i pull it so display the problems i stumble across.

 

I have a possible solution for you if your leery about the easy out. There is something called a automatic center punch. Ill add a link or pic to it. Basicly there is a sharp point that on the tip. It is spring loaded. When you press down on it, the body lowers then there is a hammer mechanism inside that hits the pointed portion. (it looks like a pencil.) using this at an angle, and "hitting" it in the reverse direction can sometimes get bolts out. I would suggest spraying it with PB blaster overnight.

If not the easy out are the best bets. BUT A GOOD BRAND. ive had cheap china ones break on me.

How did your head gasket look when you took it off? are there any areas that look like where the cylinder sealing ring was leaking into a water jacket?

If possible post up some pics. AND yes ive seen snapped bolts cause those kind of problems before. (ive also seen cars run perfectly fine). Also when your putting the heads on, use new bolts.

Ill upload a pic tomorrow from my digi camera. My phone is still broken. = (

 

Im sort of confused, it will just push it out? or when it hits it will spin it out in the reverse direction? yea I'm definitely dousing it in PB blaster for a whole day and good call on the cheapy easy outs, ill pay for the right set thats for sure, do you have a good brand in mind? ill do some shopping in the mean time.
ill post pics but i haven't taken off the passenger side head today but ill pull it tomorrow and post some pics and also the broken bolt.

yupp, got fel pro gaskets and fel pro head bolt sets. i thought you use gasket sealer on the gasket and around the water jacket holes (?) but the gasket says no need for sealant. i also bought a permatex thread sealant with PTFE for the head bolt threads to seal them. I'm trying to do this the right way with no short cuts. if there is anything else I'm missing someone feel free to chime in.

 

ill take that pic in a few mins. just searching for the camera.

as far as brands of the easy outs, craftsman, snap on, mac, irwin, matco, sk.
im not sure if home depo sells them anymore, but husky also.

Just remember something, those tools are designed to expand the bolt as your backing it out, so sometimes it pays to not use alot of strenght during the initial turn. Just take your time.

 

Just as a warning, I've personally broken 2 Irwin taps in cast iron with not much effort. One in an engine, one in a wood stove. And an easy out too, in that same engine. Screw them, pun totally intended.

 

OK here it is. The automatic center punch. So lemme explain the usage. Your gonna take the punch and set it to the highest impact setting. There is a marking on the back portion (opposite end of the point), turn it to the + or hard setting. Then take the pointed end and place it on the broken bolt like in the second picture. Press down and it will load and fire out. It is like a little mini-hammer. You' will have to do it a a lot of times. I have used it before with a good amount of success, but there are bolts that just have to be drilled out or even tapped out.

Oh and btw with alot of the "easy out tools" most of the breakages i have seen and experience is because of using to small of a removal bit. They are designed to loosen bolts that are loose. If you break a bolt head taking a bolt out, no easy out is gonna get it out. Plain and simple.

This is what it looks like.

The second pic shows the angle your gonna be using its at.

Sometimes it is easier to start at a 90 degree (straight up) and make a small dent in the bolt so when you go at a harder angle, the tip has something to grab. Its hard to explain, but if you need i can make small video on how to do it.

Also, remember your not hitting the middle of the bolt, you are gonna hit it off centered. Bascily the auto punch can turn it slightly each impact. THIS CAN TAKE UP TO A HOUR!! be patient. It is a non violent method of removing bolts. If you fail, give up, or the bolt is just to tight, you can then move on to drilling and using extractors.

 

oh man thats an awesome tool, i see what you're saying now and how its properly used. i think that would work great for stuck/broken bolts.

sorry it took a while to get back on here, but I've been extremely busy with moving out of my house to another place, anyways, heres the low down. i did remove the other head and amazingly, i have about an inch and a half of bolt sticking out of the block to play with. thank the lawd.
the past day i been soaking it in PB blaster and what i plan on doing is hitting it with a hammer to shock it loose and either using a set of special reverse sockets by irwin, or welding a nut onto the bolt and taking it off that way. i think these are the safest and most effective ways.
ill get some pics up soon, i just didn't want to leave an open ended thread like this in case someone comes across a heating problem like i have. the broken bolt indeed was causing water to come in. the chamber in the head where the bolt is broke is rusted and corroded and you can see the evidence where the water was leaking in, causing my severe overheating issue. head gaskets were actually OK! but obviously replacing them, and using new head bolts.
as of now, the heads are at a machine shop getting magna fluxed and checked for re use.

I'm just glad i found the culprit. i still cannot believe how one head bolt just snapped like that. this is really odd, especially if its stock, which i think it is.