This is a weird issue and I think I know what it is...

First off, let me begin by saying that my throwout bearing is going; I hear a winding/whirring/vibrating sound that goes away when I push in the clutch pedal. As soon as I let off the pedal it comes back and you can hear it as I shift through subsequent gears, becoming more quiet and less noticeable in 4th and 5th... So I bought a new RAM Powergrip HD clutch kit from Hawks and it's on the way. Now just need a free day to install it.

So my car starts right up in the morning and after it sits in the parking lot at work for 8 hours. But if I go to the gas station and turn the car off, go inside buy cigarettes, and come right back out, it won't start. I believe this is a clutch safety sensor problem? When the car is cold, the clutch pedal gives me much more resistance and I feel like the clutch disengages totally allowing the car to start. When the car is hot, the pedal is much more spongy and the engine cranks once or twice and will not start. However, the car will start with a jump and never dies once it starts. Also, the battery is brand new with new terminal...

I am replacing the clutch in a week or so with this new kit so I think the problem will be solved with that; the starting problem and the annoying sound from the throw out bearing and grinding my gears from the clutch not disengaging.

But does anyone have any input as to what else could be wrong??? or am I way off completely to begin with?

 

I am fighting a hot start problem on my car as well. I know that the starter solenoid are known to overhead and cause issues, i'll be checking that as well -- maybe one of us will find a solution that will work for both of us.

Brian

 

yea i have a feeling in my gut that it's all in the clutch and the safety sensor... I can hear the engine wants to start but something is stopping it. Once I hook up a jump it starts immediately, no charging needed. So I think that the battery just doesn't have enough juice to overcome the safety sensor from the clutch.... the extra power from the jump and BOOM fires up... i'll re post after new clutch is installed if it solved the problem

 

bump... come on people... any similar problems? any thoughts?

 

This makes no sense to me, the safety switch is either on or off, it cannot be over powered by a jump start, u have something else going on there.

 

based on what I am describing do you have any ideas?

 

I would check the condition of the battery, cables and the starter.

 

ok thanks for the input man... it starts up cold no problem still but i have to work the clutch back and forth to so the start clicks and eventually it will fire up. When i get the new clutch put in (came in the mail today from Hawks) i will have the electronics checked out

 

What type of exhaust are you running? Maybe LT headers?

 

Edelbrock shortys... with a 3 inch exhuast all the way back that comes out on the left side through two chrome tips....

 

I agree.
oddscrounger based on what you seem to be describing you have a no crank situation not a no start right? meaning it will start if it cranks? Id try wrapping the starter with some heat shielding it possibly getting too hot i had this issue once with a cheap replacement starter

 

 

thanks for the advice, i'll have the starter checked out. it seems to start whenever it feels like it now, with a mind of its own...

 

Yeah, I was thinking the starter is getting heat soaked.

 

i'll let you guys know after thursday. I am putting the new RAM clutch in and i'll have the wiring, electronics, and whole ignition system checked out....

the last few days it's been starting up no proble, hot or cold. these old IROCs seem to have a mind of their own... lol

just like how last night I was gettin' on it from 1st through 2nd gear and boom it sounded like i blew out my exhuast or something and I was running open headers all of a sudden... car was EXTREMELY loud... then I started it back up a few hours later and cruised downtown Chicago and back home... when I got off the highway downtown the sound returned to normal. What the hell?

 

Sounds like something inside the muffler is failing.

 

really? has edelbrock shorty headers and a 3 inch single exhuast that comes out to two tips int he back....

 

IDK for sure but something to look at.

 

OK I figured I'd let you guys have an update...

So after putting in the new clutch I still have a major rattling noise... Transmission is going to get rebuilt now. BUT I have figured out my starting problem. My starter was definitely going bad, as it basically fell apart into pieces as we removed it to get to the clutch. But even after putting in a brand new starter, I would turn the key and all the lights would flash and the buzzing sound but NO cranking or clicking at all. My friend and I checked electrical all over the engine, everything was receiving power like normal but nothing when key turns.

So we had to call an old school retired mechanice, this guy Moe. Here is where you see the difference between a young mechanic (my friend) and a retired one with 40 years experience. Within five minutes the IROC fired right up...

Turns out the original owner had put an alarm system in and was creating a feedback so when I turned the key, the electrical signal would bounce right back from the relay to the key. Signal was not reaching the starter. This is a nightmare alarm system; it is spliced into every wire in ever location in the engine. I found a circular key in the console that fits into a circular keyhole below the steering wheel. If I put that in and turn, it bypasses the alarm and the car starts IMMEDIATELY with the new starter.

So I think my problem was of dual nature; worn out/old starter and a faulty electrical system due to a nightmare of an alarm. It is going to be extremely difficult and time consuming to remove the alarm but for now the bypass key works. So, now I just wait until the transmission is rebuilt and timing is done, then my car will be ****!