ok the problem is when i was re assembling the engine as i added each piston it became super hard to turn. i thought it was just due to the new pistons do just kept going. so i struggled like hell to get the last two in. re assembled everything and dropped it in try to crank it and just heard the starter head fly off just snapped. so my question is what could be the problem or what can i do to fix this problem do i need to take the engine out again?

350
rockers not tighten little loose
torqued everything to the book
matched all the parts to how they were
plugs are in
when putting the pistons in they slid up and down really easy

 

First off the engine will most likely need to come back out. I would put it on a stand and pull the pan. Then I would pull a rod cap and check for wear marks on an edge or anywhere. My guess would be that the rods were put in backwards with the bigger chamfer towards the inside instead of towards to outside. The bearing or rods or crank should show this somewhere. They need the bigger chamfer there because of the radius from the journal to the counterweights.
If the piston was moving up and down easily before being bolted to the crank I would look there at the crank and rod. If any are backwards then you will need to pull the heads and turn them around.
Was there a notch in the piston face. If so was it pointed to the front on all cylinders and were the pistons kept right side on right side and left on left?
It is easy to make the mistake if you are not aware.
I had a very knowledgable person call me asking for help once because his motor was locked tight just from installing the crank. I found two main caps marked wrong and ultimately put in wrong. The bearings showed me the problem areas.
Good luck and be sure to let us know what you find.

 

The pistons did have a notch in the top they where pointing toward the front of the block installed every piston where it was previously. The caps where also put on the same piston. As for the turning I was able to turn it real easily for the first 4or5 pistons but after that it just kept getting tighter and tighter.so should I check the last caps I installed?

 

If it turned easily for the first 4 or 5 then I would check the last three first and then check the rest to be sure. It still sounds like a couple of rods got put in backwards.
Assuming the crank was turning free after the mains were torqued it would have to be at the rods as you said all the pistons moving easy when not connected to the crank.

 

What were your bearing clearances?

 

Ok well technically I just re ringed it. No cut only honed. I'm a join when it comes to internal engine I did not buy the little string to measure the clearence so should I take it out and buy the clearence tape and do it with that

 

Update so I went to my local machine shop talk to the guys there and they told me my mains should be at 65 lb torque. But my chiltons manual said 77 so they are to tight and I'm assuming that's why its so difficult to turn. But my connecting rod caps are properly torqued at 45 draining the oil now and taking the pan off tomorrow and re torquing them.

 

I am feeling your pain, let us know what you find out.

 

Anyone know the clearance on the main and piston caps

 

ok so lifted engine and re torqued at 65lb and clearance was .002 so i loosen all the main bearings caps to try to get it to turn wouldnt budge. loosen up connecting rods to see if it could turn wouldnt budge completely stuck.
any more ideas?

main bearing caps dont show wear
connecting rods didnt show wear either

completely stuck need help bad

thanks in advanced

 

I'm hearing conflicting things here , , help me out a bit , will ya ? .....

In your first post you state "as I put each piston in it got harder and harder to turn" , , , , And then in a subsequent post you say "it only got hard to turn after 4 or 5 pistons were in" .... Which was it ? Because if it is as I may suspect , your Main and Rod bearings may be fine and the problem be the "Ring End Gaps" ..... You mentioned re using the bearings , so if you got them back correctly in their original spots they oughta be fine . But , you mention the honing of cylenders and the instalation of new rings without ever mentioning wether you properly end gapped the rings first .

My suspicion , in brief , is that your rings have insuficent end gap , causing the piston to not move freely (enough) within the cylender .

Read up on how to determine "Piston Ring End Gap" , Check it on your engine , and I'll bet ya find the problem ......

Good Luck .....

 

New bearings actually and well didn't check that gap. But when I put the pistons in they moved freely up and down not much force at all.

 

Ok so Idk if this important when I put my timing chain with the two marks meeting each other at the crank. But my tdc was 1 instead of 6 could this have to do with my engine not being able to turn?