Hey all-
Was thinking of the following for my 355.

Heads- http://www.summitracing.com/parts/drt-127122

Hydraul Roller Cam - 218/224@.050 with- .570/.565 on a 113 LSA

Manifold- EFI- http://www.holley.com/550-820.asp

355in small block, 10.25 : 1 compression.

Headers, 3" exhaust system.

Any thoughts?

Was hoping for 450+ with this.

 

ive been thinking about the SHP/dart heads too.
youve got a nice combo picked out for some serious street/strip power,...IMO.
i would consider the 200cc version of the heads, for the hyd roller cam, and 3inch exhaust.
to meet your HP or more, you might be a little conservatine on your cam choice, and LSA?
tell these guys more about your ride and intended porpuse. the more, the better. lots of good wrenches on here.

 

It would be a daily driver believe it or not, but 90% of the road it sees is highway cruising. I don't want it to idle nice at 1k with 18" of vacuum. They make vacuum pumps for a reason.
When the T56 swap is finished, the 3.08 gears and 30" tires gives me under two grand at 75mph. Ideally my power band would fall between 2k-6.5/7k.
This car would see road racing, highway runs and some drag strip pulls. But mainly I am looking for a nice flat power band with plenty of midrange power.
Perhaps a bit more duration and a slightly wider LSA?
Are the 185cc heads to small to flow for the power I want? I did not want to slap on a pair of heads that were oversized for the motor.

 

imo you'll be at around 400 FWHP with a perfect tune at sea level with that. Step up the cam a bit and get more aggressive with the gearing, especially with a T56. Something in the 230/236 range will get you close to your goals. Matched with 3.73s or 4.10s and you'll have a quick ride.

Those heads will leave power on the table, imo. It really depends on what your budget for heads and valvetrain is though.

Also, why go with hyd roller? It sounds like you aren't afraid of working on your car so step up to a solid roller and gain the power that a far more aggressive lobe profile can give you. Valve lash maintenance is minimal.

 

I did some more research and I agree on the heads.
Perhaps the dart SHP 200cc heads would be better for my goals?

I had heard that solid rollers are just terrible for daily drivers- longevity wise. If they will last in my DD then I will have no problem with maintenance because of the better profiles I could access.. Any experience?

Also, how are those EQ 200cc heads.. I had looked at those as well.

 

I wouldn't do a solid roller unless you like paying attention to detail frequently. Solid rollers do offer the potential for more power (keyword: potential), but you need to keep an eye on things.. and don't even think about buying cheap lifters unless you want to buy a grenade that lasts a few hundred miles.

People seem to have good luck with Morel lifters, as well as Crower HIPO's. Some people also prefer the ISKY RedZone EZ-Rolls. I'd go with the Morels if I had to choose because of the oiling location and overall lifter design, but I opted for a solid flat tappet instead so I wouldn't need to worry about stressing out the springs or bad lifters. Keep in mind that a solid cam swap won't be cheap at all, and you might not gain a whole lot for the money spent.

Valve lash isn't a big deal, but I'd stick with a bigger hydraulic roller if I were you so you don't have to worry about things.. especially in a DD. Some of the problems people have issues with are definitely user error contributing to failure, but I honestly believe that the solid roller lifters of a SBC take a beating for the amount of force that is applied per lifter diameter, and that's part of why they don't last long and fail. You'll see some tests on this kind of thing if you google a bit. That's just my opinion, though. To be fair, though - I've never used a solid roller, and there's many that have used them successfully. I think it's a good idea if you can take things apart if something at any time if you notice something isn't right, but we're still talking a DD here. Not sure I'd want to take that chance unless I knew I had another vehicle to drive.


and another thing... a wider LSA won't peak as much as a narrow LSA. If you're drag racing, you want a narrow lobe separation for most NA applications, not wider unless you're using a boosted application or something of that nature that can take advantage of the powerband. I'd go with more duration, decent lift numbers, and a narrow(er) LSA to give you better overall torque/power/responsiveness at the expense of some RPM's. You'll need to address your rearend gear ratios to the new camshaft or your car will be a turd down low. For reference, my cam was ground on a 106 LSA. I wouldn't recommend this unless you get a vacuum pump and reserve canister like I did.

If you're not sure what LSA to get, just stick with a 110 as that is generally the standard. Can't really go wrong there. Either that, or ask someone who specializes in cams. Lobe separation is only one piece of the puzzle anyways, so don't go thinking it "makes or breaks" a cam because there's lots of different ways to get good performance.

 

Ah didn't realize it was a DD. Ya the amount of miles you'll put on it in that case makes a hyd roller a better choice. The solid does tend to beat things up, especially with the much higher spring pressures they require. I was under the impression you were building a weekend warrior. Still look a cam in the 230/236 range from comp's XFI line. I think you'll be happy.

The EQ 200 ccs are nice heads imo. Performance wise, for the price, they're a good piece. Here's the pics of mine right out of the box next to some stock L98 heads:

 

Delta:
If I was only drag racing I would choose a narrower LSA, however, I may be mistaken, but since I will be doing more highway pulls and road racing with this vehicle I need more power in the mid range and under the curve, meaning I need the wide power band.
I would have no problem installing a vac pump and canister, a rough idle does not scare me, haha.

Urban:
Nice heads. How much power is your setup making?


How would
240/246, .615/.610lift with a 112 LSA sound?
The larger duration pushes the power band higher, which is not too much of an issue.
Would the midrange suffer too much?

 

road racing you mean like a designated track for handling? A tighter LSA will give you much better power in any cam you choose, but it will have a more rigid, peaky RPM band (meaning it comes on quickly and explosively, and when it drops off out of the powerband it's also loses that "momentum" just as fast). That cam ground on a 108-110 LSA would be awesome in my opinion. I think those current specs are equally as appealing, though.

What transmission are you running?

 

Definitely go higher with the cam than 218/224. That won't get you much past 5k rpm. That's a decent L98 cam, but if you're not sticking with TPI, then you need something that pulls at least up to 6k. My siamesed TPI cam is 223/230. That will be shifted somewhere around 5800.