https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...oil-mixed.html

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/carb...-got-fuel.html


Above are links to threads that I started when I was having a few other problems.

About the car:92 camaro RS converted over to 4bbl carb by the previous owner.

I recently replaced my manifold gasket & now I have a really bad oil leak. So bad that it leaked out 5 qts of oil in two days. I did'nt think it was very bad so I let my wife drive it to work. When I checked the oil 2 days later it had maybe about a half a quart left in it.

I plan on doing a compression check to verify that it is leaking from the manifold, I've never done this before anyone care to share a few tips & tricks with me? & is there another way to tackle this problem?

When I was putting the manifold back together I noticed that one of the bolts was either stripped or the hole was made bigger.I pulled out the bolt & it as not stripped, but I also noticed that it was not tightening. I found what seemed to be pieces of a helicoil, so I went & bought a new helicoil & dropped it in the hole & bolted it down. Could this be the problem? maybe it's not get tight enough?

If so how do I fix that? Do I have to drill a new hole into the block?

 

[quote=MMroc86;5476307]https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...oil-mixed.html

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/carb...-got-fuel.html


Above are links to threads that I started when I was having a few other problems.

About the car:92 camaro RS converted over to 4bbl carb by the previous owner.

I recently replaced my manifold gasket & now I have a really bad oil leak. So bad that it leaked out 5 qts of oil in two days. I did'nt think it was very bad so I let my wife drive it to work. When I checked the oil 2 days later it had maybe about a half a quart left in it.

I plan on doing a compression check to verify that it is leaking from the manifold, I've never done this before anyone care to share a few tips & tricks with me? & is there another way to tackle this problem?

When I was putting the manifold back together I noticed that one of the bolts was either stripped or the hole was made bigger.I pulled out the bolt & it as not stripped, but I also noticed that it was not tightening. I found what seemed to be pieces of a helicoil, so I went & bought a new helicoil & dropped it in the hole & bolted it down. Could this be the problem? maybe it's not get tight enough?

Im guessing its the dist oring . Did you put blk rtv in the corners where the end rail gaskets meet the port gackets ? sometimes if your not carefull the rubber rail gasket can slip off during manifold install . did you tighten the bolts in the proper sequence and to factory torque specs ? these could all be an issue the helicoil shouldn't be an issue if you installed it properly as long as the top thread of the coil is 1/16 below the cyl head serface . did the bolt get tite in the coil ? where is the oil coming from? you should be able to see if its leaking that bad.

 

I'd be able to see if it was leaking from the dist o-ring. Thats not it.

The bolt did get tight in the heli coil. I got under the car and the oil is definitly coming from up top. But I can't see were its coming from.

What is the proper sequence?

No torque wrench so I just tigthened till they felt tight enough...

rubber rail gasket?

We did use the wrong sealant for the front & back.... did'nt think it'd be that big a deal. Thats another possiability. I'll do a compression test first. I should be able to feel some of the air coming out right? This was not a problem before we did this, so it has to have something to do with the manifold gasket. I'll keep you guys posted.

Anybody else have toughts?

Got a ton of variables here.....

 

Take it off, clean all the surfaced real good.

Use a little RTV to hold gaskets in place on heads, run a 1/4" bead or RTV across the front and rear of block.

Carefully lower intake into place.

Tighten all bolts in the proper sequence to the proper spec.

If it still leacks, call someone with more experience.

 

Should I be putting sealant on just the spot where the intake gasket is going to sit? or should I put some on the intake itself?

That was something I wondered the first time.

I put some on both.....

 

Just enough sealent to hold the gasket in place.

Do not use the rubber gaskets for the ends, just a 1/4" bead of sealent.

Put a couple dabs on the gaskets and put them on the heads, and let it dry. That way it will hold the gaskets in place when you drop the intake.

Put 1/4" beads on the front and rear of the block where the ends of the intake sit, then set the intake in place.

 

Found the problem, thats a tie strap that I inserted from the of the manifold into the distributor opening.... big *** gap in the sealant! how'd the hell did I screw it up that bad!? Live & learn, gotta do it again now. Hopefully I can set it right this time, cause its a huge pita!

 

good deal,
At least it's easier then replacing the intake gaskets!

 

I might have to. since I put sealant on the damn intake itself. It might pull/ruin the gasket when I remove the intake. Im going to do it very carefully tough. I hopefully I get lucky.

So just to be 100% when I put it back together. I DON"T have to put sealant on the intake itself?

I know, it may sound silly, but I'm a novice & still learning, so I want to be sure. The reason I put some on it the first time is because it look like they'd put some on it the first time that placed it on there it had a lot of sealant on it that I had to clean it up...



Thanks!

 

I never put any on the carb gasket.

 

Not the carb gasket. I'm talking about the big part the carb bolts to, which bolts to the car. Thats the intake manifold right? I'll post some pics later, to clarify....

 

Alright so thats the intake right? I put sealant on the back of that. Was I not suppose to? It pulled off the driverside intake gasket.....



Thats a pic of the lifter valley. Notice all the water in it? Should I assume that it's becuase I did'nt drain the water before I pulled the intake? I was'nt getting anymore water in oil before I pulled it....

Or should I just go ahead & do the head gaskets while I'm there?

 

Yes the water is because you didn't drain the coolant. Be sure you change the oil before you start it!!!

 

Yeah the water needs to go, I'd drain it ASAP, definitely dont run it with water in it.

 

When you have the intake off, take a few rags and wipe off as much water as you can from the lifter retainer ("spider"), and also wipe off the lifter valley. Change the oil and the oil filter. As already stated above, don't even use the end gaskets supplied with the set, just the side gaskets. Put down the 1/4 inch bead of RTV first, then put your side gaskets in place, then go back and put another good sized dab of RTV in the 4 corners, basically right on top of the little tabs at the bottom of the side gaskets. The corners are the hardest part to get to seal. Also, on the side gaskets, I always put a small bead of RTV on both sides of the side gaskets around the water passage ports. May not be necessary, but I always do it. In fact, that's another way that water can end up in the lifter valley. Don't need any sealer around the intake ports. When torquing it down, start in the middle, tighten one side, then tighten the other side. Keep crossing over side to side while working your way out from the middle. Once all bolts are tight, go back to the middle bolts and tighten all of them a 2nd time. If you have a torque wrench, you'll want your final torque to be 30-35 foot pounds. Oh yeah, thread sealer on the intake bolts is a good idea too. Use Loctite 565 or 567 white, teflon thread sealant on all the intake bolts. SBC's are notorious for either water or oil seeping up from the bolt holes onto the intake surface if no thread sealer is used. As far as RTV sealant goes, I swear by Permatex "Right Stuff" that comes in the can. It's a bit expensive(about 15 bucks), but it works awesome! Most parts stores carry it.

 

Are your valve covers centerbolt style?

 

This is all great info! Thanks! You say only put it in the corners? Should'nt I put all the way across the back & front? Theres no gasket there.... Or am I misunderstanding something?

Yes.

 

You need a different intake for your centerbolt valvecovers. The Center bolts will not work right.

 

Could that be why they made the holes in the manifold larger? What kind of problems will this cause me? We drove the car for a yr before seeing any problems.

 

Looks like the intake could use a lil cleaning at the car wash b4 it goes back on...

 

Will do. Question, Am I supposed to put any kind of sealant on the back of the intake itself or just the surface that the gasket is going to mate to?

 

After cleaning the intake, block and heads, I wipe it all down with carb and choke cleaner then let air dry for a min.
I run a 1/4" bead of
Permatex Ultra Black Maximum Oil Resistance RTV Silicone Gasket Maker 82180
on the front and rear china walls of the block. I also put a very very thin layer around the coolant passages.
Let that sit for a min or 2 then carefully lower intake strait down.
I use a small dab of teflon paste on all the intake bolt threads.

 

Thats why they did it. The problem is the angle of the bolt and the anlge of the surface of the intake are not the same. you are having very little contact and sealing from those center bolts.

Some have used wedges between the intake and the bolt.

The Torquer 2 intake sucks, you would be better off selling it and getting a performer that is made for the newer heads.

As for sealer on the intake, like I have said in this thread a few times now. Only put enough on to hold the gaskets to the heads while you drop the intake in place.

 

That sucks, I will look into the performer intake.. THX

 

Yeah, you also need to do the 1/4 bead of RTV on the front and back "china walls". All I meant regarding the corners is that they need a little extra, and that's where you need to pay close attention so that the intake will seal good at all 4 corners. TT350 explained it pretty much the same way I did. If you go with our advice, your intake should seal up nicely!

 

Any update?

 

Got it all bolted up & running. The two bolts closest to the firewal would not tigthen past 15 lbs of pressure but I have no leaks!

New problem tho. Its revving really high before switching to second gear. & its doingthe same with the rest of the gears. I did mess with the to screw in the front of the carb when I was trying to figure out why it would not start. Could that have caused my new problem?

Looking into it now. Any adivce on that would be great.

thx

 

Look up how to set the TV cable. Its very important you fix that before you drive it a bunch.

 

Got it... The timing was off a bit & the carb needed some adjusting.

Now for some reason that car has always run @ very high rpms, I suspect it has something to do with the carb swap. It runs @ 4k when going 65mph. Anything higher then that & your in the red. & it shifts into 4th at 55k....

Its got the 2.73 gears.

Gonna do some research on the TV cable... thanks

 

My money says your tach is off. With 2.73 gears you'd be doing 150 mph going into 4th at 5500 rpm!

 

Yeah, if your tach isn't the problem, and you're really running that high of RPM, it could be either the TV cable or the governor inside the tailshaft of the trans. TV adjustment would be the 1st thing I'd check before messing with the governor. I remember once I had a little bit of dirt or crud in the governor and my shift points were inconsistent and all over the place til I cleaned it out!

 

good info guys, it seems to be running fine now, but I will keep it n mind if it starts acting up...

 

One thing after another! Havn't had anytime to work on my car since this one started acting up....

 

Is the car hanging in 2nd gear and then skipping 3rd going straight into 4th at 5500 RPMs?If your actually turning 4k at 65 MPH it has to be hanging in 2nd. If this is the case it probably is the TV cable. I said tach earlier, but apparently this didn't start until you did the intake swap right? I would definitely readjust the cable, there are threads on here on the proper way to do it.

 

No, its kicking all the gears, I'm thinking the tach is off. I'm listening to the engine & it does not sound abnormal. I'm going to look into getting that damn tach working properly.

 

Good deal. I'd rather the tach be off than it actually having a mechanical problem. If I was you I'd just buy a good after market tach, hook it up and be done.