350 timing chain removal
#1
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Car: 1986 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: 5.0
Transmission: 700R4
350 timing chain removal
not sure if this goes under TPI or general tech section but is TPI 350 in my 87, and im exploring an idea of low idle. my mechanic told me a couple weeks ago that the timing chain was slapping and should be replaced. i believed this cause its making a chattering noise in the front of the engine. what do i need to do/remove to get to the timing chain to replace? is the damper pulley PITA to get off like on Fords?
#2
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Re: 350 timing chain removal
Water pump (and whatever accessories block it), damper, timing cover. Whatever stuff like fan, wiring, hoses, etc. you encounter along the way.
It's a REAL PITA. Might take 3 hours if you're as slow as me. You can probably do it faster.
Good time to renew all the fail-with-time-and-use parts like rad & heater hoses, belts, etc. that you encounter along the way. Including the water pump; as cheeeeeeeeep as they are. No sense putting one that only has like 2 weeks to live back on there and being granted the exclusive privilege of doing it all, ALL OVER AGAIN, before the car even quits smelling of the sealant you used this time.
It's a REAL PITA. Might take 3 hours if you're as slow as me. You can probably do it faster.
Good time to renew all the fail-with-time-and-use parts like rad & heater hoses, belts, etc. that you encounter along the way. Including the water pump; as cheeeeeeeeep as they are. No sense putting one that only has like 2 weeks to live back on there and being granted the exclusive privilege of doing it all, ALL OVER AGAIN, before the car even quits smelling of the sealant you used this time.
#3
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Car: 1986 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: 5.0
Transmission: 700R4
Re: 350 timing chain removal
Water pump (and whatever accessories block it), damper, timing cover. Whatever stuff like fan, wiring, hoses, etc. you encounter along the way.
It's a REAL PITA. Might take 3 hours if you're as slow as me. You can probably do it faster.
Good time to renew all the fail-with-time-and-use parts like rad & heater hoses, belts, etc. that you encounter along the way. Including the water pump; as cheeeeeeeeep as they are. No sense putting one that only has like 2 weeks to live back on there and being granted the exclusive privilege of doing it all, ALL OVER AGAIN, before the car even quits smelling of the sealant you used this time.
It's a REAL PITA. Might take 3 hours if you're as slow as me. You can probably do it faster.
Good time to renew all the fail-with-time-and-use parts like rad & heater hoses, belts, etc. that you encounter along the way. Including the water pump; as cheeeeeeeeep as they are. No sense putting one that only has like 2 weeks to live back on there and being granted the exclusive privilege of doing it all, ALL OVER AGAIN, before the car even quits smelling of the sealant you used this time.
#4
Re: 350 timing chain removal
You need pullers to remove the dampner & lower gear, need a installer for the dampner too.
I'd do a timing chain slack test before taking it apart. Turn the engine over by hand till the timing mark is at 0, remove the dist. cap, watch the rotor as you turn the engine back & forth, look at the timing tab to is when the slack is taken up. You should have a couple of degrees, 5 or more is getting up there.
I'd do a timing chain slack test before taking it apart. Turn the engine over by hand till the timing mark is at 0, remove the dist. cap, watch the rotor as you turn the engine back & forth, look at the timing tab to is when the slack is taken up. You should have a couple of degrees, 5 or more is getting up there.
Last edited by ex-x-fire; 05-04-2013 at 08:20 AM.
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Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
Re: 350 timing chain removal
Hit AZ or one of the others for the damper removal and installer tool on loan. Piece of cake. Get the puller to remove the crank sprocket too.
#7
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Re: 350 timing chain removal
One fast and easy way to remove the crank sprocket is a cold chisel; often when replacing these they are fairly brittle and will crack with a solid tap, then slide right off the end of the crank. Can be a time/tool saver.
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