I've had heat soak issues with the original starter for months now and eventually broke down and got a new powermaster 9600. It cranked strong for the past 3 weeks and now its just dead. The headers pass right by the starter, too close for a heat shield. Tried remote starter solenoid installed as directed and no good. Only thing else I could try would be a starter blanket. I don't even know what to do any more.

 

I hear you. I got a hi torque mini starter brand new a few years ago... Maybe 150 starts on it... I get heat soak with it all the time..I have a starter blanket on mine.. Seemed to help a bit.. But today while I was trying out tunes... After the 4th start I got nothing.... Even after an hour of it sitting I still had the click syndrome.. I haven't tried the remote mount solenoid yet but that's my next thing to try if this keeps up.. Hell some guys have never had an issue with stock starters.... Find a solution... POST IT lol

 

Mine doesn't even click. What exactly does the click signify?

 

Click is the solenoid engaging.

Make sure you have a good ground on the block to the frame. Make sure it's at LEAST 4ga and that it is bolted, not screwed in place.

 

I had a remote solenoid for a while and it did no good whatsoever. Absolutely ZERO change from before I put it in, to after I put it in, to after I removed it. Just ended up with an LT1 starter.

 

^^^

I reckon a lot of starter 'heat soak' issues are actually battery cable, terminal, or ground issues. Starters need a lot of current; anything that electrically impedes that will make them sluggish or knock them out.

 

what gives?

you replaced the starter but did not resolve the actual cause of the problem


Get s starter blanket (heat shield) this will deflect a lot of radiant heat.

Are your headers ceramic coated? this will also reduce radiant heat.

I have a GM mini-starter with solenoid in the stock location, wrapped with a starter blanket. this is 13 years old & I never had a problem, other than the blanket is wore out and needs to be replaced.

I don't suggest fully wrapping headers. but if your headers are un-coated you could just wrap the section of the tubing that is near the starter. That small portion of header wrap will not fatigue the metal and may be all you need to keep heat soak away do that and a starter blanket.

also pay attention to how you route the battery cables and starter wiring.

keep the positive cable from the battery to the starter away from the header. I secure mine to the oil pan with some russel clips.

I run my negative to the motor mount again keep away from the header.

the ignition wiring to the solenoid I run behind the engine block over the trans bell-housing . I also have those wires wrapped in a heat reflective sleeving.

beat the heat, and you should not have any issues. headers give off a lot more heat than cast iron manifolds. ceramic coated headers are expensive but the coating does help and the headers will last 'forever'

 

Just because you have good power doesn't mean you have a good ground. Grounds are EVERYTHING in a 12V system. Whenever I wire a drag car, I put two 4ga grounds on the block and at least a 2ga ground at the battery.

Also, when an electrical device....wire, alt, starter, solenoid, switch or relay gets hot the resistance gets higher. That's what is called heat soak. The more heat you can keep outta your wires, the less trouble you'll have.