head gasket choice steel or copper
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From: Detroit, MI
Car: 1987 IROC-Z red t-top
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head gasket choice steel or copper
Blew my head gasket 2day and its mixing bad drove about 6 miles with out it over heating 4 long and putting water in.
Its my DD I just started a job and 2day is my only day to do it. I guess I put the wrong HG on (blue std fel pro) on my 355 with aluminum 113 heads.
So I want to throw some layer gasket on but should I use steel or copper HG. Give part #
Nitrous will be in my plans.
I probably won't be able to get a picker to pull the motor so what do u supposed I do to get the old oil out.
Anything I should look out for? I know I should resurface the heads and block (I will with sandpaper and a block)
Its my DD I just started a job and 2day is my only day to do it. I guess I put the wrong HG on (blue std fel pro) on my 355 with aluminum 113 heads.
So I want to throw some layer gasket on but should I use steel or copper HG. Give part #
Nitrous will be in my plans.
I probably won't be able to get a picker to pull the motor so what do u supposed I do to get the old oil out.
Anything I should look out for? I know I should resurface the heads and block (I will with sandpaper and a block)
Last edited by Sojer; Dec 29, 2013 at 03:51 AM. Reason: missed some words
Re: head gasket choice steel or copper
Antifreeze tears up the bearings when it gets mixed in the oil. Gonna take a lot more than sandpaper. I'd pull the pan and be checking them out if I were you. This is next to impossible in the car.
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Re: head gasket choice steel or copper
There's alot more to it than just "sanding" and pop'n new gaskets on, Especially if you plan on shoot'n NOS..... Thread Starter
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From: Detroit, MI
Car: 1987 IROC-Z red t-top
Engine: Nothing much
Transmission: I wish t56
Axle/Gears: 9bolt 3.27 4sale
Re: head gasket choice steel or copper
I appreciate the comments but I need answers to my questions. I know I have problems that I cant to nothing about but I cant get a picker in time maybe next weekend. Im ready to start getting parts from the parts store.
Re: head gasket choice steel or copper
Just trying to provide a little insight on what you're facing here. It won't matter what gasket you put on, if the heads and deck are warped or cracked, it won't seal. Neither will it matter for long if your main, rod and cam bearings are destroyed from the antifreeze, it will be done for in a week. Good luck, maybe someone else can provide you with the answer you want, I gave you the one you need.
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Car: 1991 Z28 Vert
Engine: 383 single plane efi
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Re: head gasket choice steel or copper
I had coolant get into the oil on a 355 some years back. Almost every rod and main bearing was bad and the crank had to be ground 0.010" Coolant in the oil is a serious problem.
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From: Detroit, MI
Car: 1987 IROC-Z red t-top
Engine: Nothing much
Transmission: I wish t56
Axle/Gears: 9bolt 3.27 4sale
Re: head gasket choice steel or copper
I replaced the head gasket I used fel pro 1010. But I cant do nothing with the bottom end so saying what I should do don't matter. Its not knocking. I will change the oil 3 times I will add some flush stuff. All this means I have to do a full rebuild. Bigger and worst. I'm thinking 383 trick flow 195 xfi268 cam HSR. A cheap but quick car.
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Car: 84 Camaro z28
Engine: 355
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I've gotten away with water in my oil a couple of times. One time I didn't was when I had a 98 silverado a couple years ago that overheated, the radiator was leaking so I replaced the radiator. No leak, went to test drive it to see if it overheated anymore and pulling in the driveway two rod bearings went. Had I checked for water in the oil before I went to test drive it it might have saved the motor. Chances are when it overheated the first time the head gasket blew. I got lucky and the heads or block wasn't warped, but i did do a complete tear down to bare block and rebuild. Crank was scored a bit. Went with a new crank and bearings, timing kit, all gaskets. First time I've ever rebuilt a motor myself.
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From: Desert
Car: 1991 Z28 Vert
Engine: 383 single plane efi
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 8.8 with 3.73s
Re: head gasket choice steel or copper
I replaced the head gasket I used fel pro 1010. But I cant do nothing with the bottom end so saying what I should do don't matter. Its not knocking. I will change the oil 3 times I will add some flush stuff. All this means I have to do a full rebuild. Bigger and worst. I'm thinking 383 trick flow 195 xfi268 cam HSR. A cheap but quick car.
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Re: head gasket choice steel or copper
You can get coolant in the oil from bad intake manifold gaskets also. The coolant can leak into the lifter valley.
For a daily driver, a composite gasket works just fine. On my race car, I use a MLS gasket. The nice thing about MLS is that they're reusable. Clean them up, spray with copper spray and slap them back on. I think I've reinstalled mine 3 times now.
The one thing you need to be aware of. OEM single steel shim head gaskets are thin. Something like 0.018". A composite gasket is in the 0.025 to 0.035" range. An MLS gasket is slightly thicker. The thicker the head gasket, the lower the compression ratio will be. It will also change your valve geometry slightly.
If you did blow a head gasket, there's usually a reason. In most cases, a blown head gasket also means the deck surface and the head surface may be distorted. It's unlikely you'll tear the engine down to get the deck resurfaced but send the heads out to get them resurface. If all you do is change the head gasket and throw the engine back together, there's a good chance it will fail again. Using a composite head gasket can take up some of those irregularities in the deck surface a lot better than steel head gaskets.
For a daily driver, a composite gasket works just fine. On my race car, I use a MLS gasket. The nice thing about MLS is that they're reusable. Clean them up, spray with copper spray and slap them back on. I think I've reinstalled mine 3 times now.
The one thing you need to be aware of. OEM single steel shim head gaskets are thin. Something like 0.018". A composite gasket is in the 0.025 to 0.035" range. An MLS gasket is slightly thicker. The thicker the head gasket, the lower the compression ratio will be. It will also change your valve geometry slightly.
If you did blow a head gasket, there's usually a reason. In most cases, a blown head gasket also means the deck surface and the head surface may be distorted. It's unlikely you'll tear the engine down to get the deck resurfaced but send the heads out to get them resurface. If all you do is change the head gasket and throw the engine back together, there's a good chance it will fail again. Using a composite head gasket can take up some of those irregularities in the deck surface a lot better than steel head gaskets.
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