I got a 3.1 to old skool 5.7 carb swap and have everything hooked up on the stock harness (no cuts) the fan wont come on (of course) I think its because I need a CTS. instead of just the 160 fan switch that I do have (soon will be a 180 stat, and a 185 switch in the head. this is the only thing standing between me and sweet driving enjoyment!
but I want to find out will the computer still tell the fan to come on at 220eventhough the fan switch is for 180/170. I put this in cooling section with no answer.

 

how do I change the temp the ecm kicks on the fans in the PROM. and I will get a CTS if I need one (not too expensive). PLEASE remember I am a complete rookie when it comes to the computer

 

Don't do 180 and 185, it is very possible to get the fan to turn on while moving and thing will actually heat up.

 

???

 

Depends on your setup but the tolerances on parts can be more than +-5F.

Depending on the car and the fan setup if the fan is pushing air one way and on the expressway the air is pushing the other way then you don't get a lot of circulation. Ruins the low pressure zone created by the air damn.

Better to have them farther apart. Remember thermostat is the min temp the engine will run if your cooling system is correct. That includes the expressway.

 

everywhere I looked said that the ecm just needs the fan switch, CTS, and relay to make the fan come on. but if I put a CTS in the intake the ecm still wont kick on fan until the ecm sees 238degrees. am I correct? if not please help. remember this is a 3.1 to 5.7 swapped car with stock wiring (nothing cut)

 

Are you putting in a temp sensor and a 185 degree fan switch?

 

right now with the 355 I have the temp gauage sender in the drvier side head, the coolant fan switch in the pass. side head (160 degrees with a 160 stat that will soon be 185switch and 180 stat), a working fan and a working (new) relay, and no CTS hooked up anywhere. if the fan will work properly I will put in a CTS

 

Ooops, sorry, I see you have it working..

 

yeah the individual parts may be working but I want it to come on and go off automatically like its supposed to. oh! and no AC hooked up yet!

 

deleted, sorry bout the double post, but I must be missing something simple to be sure somebody has swapped a v6 to a v8 and had to deal with the fan. what I'm going to do when I get home is ground from batt to fan switch connector to see if relay kicks with ign. on, then I'm going to put 12v to the red/black wire in the relay harness. then I'm jumpering the dark green/white to the brown in the relay harness and try to see what the problem is with why it wont kick in automatic

 

Okay, I've reread your thread and see you want the computer to control the fan.

Yes, the ECM sees the temp via a CTS to operate a primary (in your case main) fan.

But not sure-since you car was PFI, what will and won't work via ECM, since the injection set up is now gone....I'd think the SES light would be constantly on?

 

yes the ses is on. and if I put in a CTS then will the computer still try to turn the fans on ONLY at 238 degrees? if so then the only way to operate the fan would be a toggle switch. correct? or am I missing something in the wiring diagram? b/c when I had my 89rs the fan switch did all the control of the fan all I had to do is plug in the temp switch I wanted and voila and when I got this beautiful 91rs I thought once I did the swap it would be the same but the 3.1 that was in it was only ecm controlled.

now all of this is based on the fact that right now I have the 160 fan switch in the pass side head and the fan does not come on even with the coolant temp well over 160 and a brand new relay and no cut wires.

 

as a matter of fact I don't even see the fan switch in the diagram (this is for a 92rs)
http://www.austinthirdgen.org/mkport...an_V6_vinT.jpg

 

wait a minute! maybe I been looking at this wrong! does the ecm activate the fan or just take over in case the fan switch doesn't do its job? awe man idk wat the crap ughh!

 

Pretty sure your CTS (before the swap) sent the temp to the ecm.
The ECM -at some programmed temp read, would send the signal to energize the fan relay.

Now, if you're saying that you have a fanswitch in place of the CTS, then the ECM is not getting the proper signal needed.

What you could do is run the Fanswitch to the the ground side of the relay to energize it, or add in a separate relay to control your fan.

As I mentioned before, I don't know what will and will not work with the factory ECM with the injection pulled off the engine and running a carb.

 

Ok I was tryn not to but toggle switch or relay it is. I will google how to do it or search TGO. 1. Toggle switch 2. Find out why my alt has power from both sources but still not charging 3. Timing light git rid of the dieseling 4. Add a breather that fits under stock hood. 5. Retorque all frontend components and install all cotter pins 6. Connect tranny wires and shift cable, install wheels.... Done!

 

Easy to make your own temp controlled fan setup using a factory CTS and a relay.

 

fan blk/red wire to pin 87- 185fan switch blue wire to pin85- junction block wire to fuse to pin 30- ign. wire ? to pin 86
what/where ign. wire? I wil have to try to find one

 

last but not least: why would my alt stop charging if the hot wires have power and its been charging. did it go out? or could something else be affecting it (wiring)? in other words is there something that could have shorted out? the only other wire that goes to it is the brown and without the ecm It don't look like the brown does anything. weird for it to just go out like that. one minute working, the next dead battery and no voltage on gauge. what in the world. looks like the closer I get to being finished the farther away I am.

edit: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...ing-sense.html found this old thread I will keep checking

 

Could also be the alternator, autozone will test them for free.

 

Bottom left of the fuse block, marked "ign". A male spade connector will plug in to it. It sounds like you understand how a relay works and how they are wired already. You are ahead of the game on most people asking about this.

 

thx guys, I had the alt tested and will have it tested again. I think the brown wire has a fuse that does in fact have something to do with the charging circuit so I will check that fuse. batt did test border line good when I started dealing with the car I just forgot that a bad batt wont charge and will have these same symptoms. I will post results after work

 

are we dealing with a single fan or dual fan?


single fans(at least for V8 TBI cars) are not controlled by the ECM at all
the fan switch in the head is the only thing that controls when the fan turns on and off, if you want it to turn on sooner, put a lower temp switch in the head, it should be turning on and off by itself if the fan switch sensor and wiring is good(check your grounds)

if it is dual fans, then one is controlled by the fan switch(no control from ECM) and the other is ECM controlled

 

its a single fan. the wiring is a 91rs with 3.1v6 all stock completely unmolested. and now the motor is a old skool 5.7 the only things I have done was extended some of the wiring that had to go new locations that's all. I thought so also then I found this: http://www.austinthirdgen.org/mkport...an_V6_vinT.jpg
and this:
http://austinthirdgen.org/mkportal/m...ine_wiring.gif

wait in the second one I don't even see the cooling fan switch

 

alternator is bad. fan fuse was blown and replaced and when I fired car up for a brief second the fan moved. got it to temp (190-210) and the fan did nothing. have not put in the CTS yet autozone either sold me the wrong one or I need to change the pigtail. no fan on and the temp did not go over (210) after running for about 20min in above 90 degree weather sitting still . I don't kno why but hey I'm not complaining. so far that's all I have to report right now. its been doing some raining here in nc in the afternoons.

 

thx joe for the pic and everyone for your help i'll git the 30amp relay this weekend and hopefully be driving b4 Monday

 

how are you verifying temp, i don't doubt that temp after 20 minutes of idling, just curious how you are reading it

i have had 5 different stock temp gauges in my car, and every one of them was off, some read high, some low

im not sure why the fan wouldnt come on with a 165 switch after 20 minutes of idling

I know that my car's single fan does not turn on until it is around 220(the gauge is reading full hot 260 by this time), which brings the car back down to around 190-210, this is all with a stock switch in the head

I verify by hitting the top inlet on the radiator or the thermostat housing with a laser temp reader, also i try to get an accurate reading by the switch itself





hope you can get it running to your satisfaction!

 

that's how I do it! but it also depends on how close u are to the housing. I don't know how the system works I think the switch turns the fan on and the ecm is the emergency backup. or is the other way around? but with the diagram in the earlier post I don't have to worry about that

 

2. Find out why my alt has power from both sources but still not charging, done!
3. Timing light git rid of the dieseling<done!
4. Add a breather that fits under stock hood.<done!
5. Retorque all frontend components and install all cotter pins<done!

all of a sudden, the volt gauge and the temp gauge does not work they are staying in one spot. but the oil gauge and the fuel needle do work. but I will figure that out also

 

can someone pleez put this: http://www.cpttransmission.com/tech_tvcable.htm into plain English.
this is the bracket I have: Spectre Performance Throttle Cable Brackets 24283 here's the carb: edelbrock 1411

 

A video is worth a few pages of explanation.

 

ok I think that I found the answer: i have to put the tv cable back far enuff that the cable is straight and somewhat tight when the throttle is in the resting position (idle). and then make sure that when WOT is achieved the tv cable should have to release the slider the proper number of clicks (just a few)

i ask because when i pull my cable by hand (cable in one hand and adjuster housing in the other) it first straightens then it pulls out of the sheath then it feels like a switch/valve opens down in the trranny. it looks like it is about 7in out and still isn't pulling the black plastic slider out any clicks.

but what i have to do is just keep adjusting until i got it right and then i don't have to worry about it having a valve or anything oopen in the tranny b/c it has to at least pull the slider out a few clicks

i will try it ad post results, I guess what I should have asked is hoe far back does the bracket need to be from the geometry corrector pin to make sure the slider comes out at WOT. but then again not all cables are the same length.

 

What the crap????? I had it working all of a suDden the ign slots have no power(none). And the gauges fuse blew again!!!! Ughhh! I'm close to ridin and its just little things buggin me. I hooked the ign wire in the gaauges slot andtouched the ground wire to the body fan kicked on. Idk if the fan switch works because I didn't have a good crimp. Help!!!!

 

found it!!! the gauges fuse and the two ign slots are linked:

http://www.austinthirdgen.org/mkport...stribution.jpg

now I have to find out how to keep the gauges fuse from blowing. I wonder if I can just put a bigger fuse in it? I have the fan running in one of the slots and the choke in the other. then I can run some tests to find out ijf I have a bum 185 fan switch. HELP!!!!!
edit:
I just noticed something; I don't use the extra radio slot - the injector slots - and I think I can get a 30 amp fuse to use in the gauges slot to allow the extra current for the fan. fellas, I believe I'm learning how this electrical and car repair stuff works thx TGO and everybody that has helped me!!!! oh will this work or am I thinking wrong

 

You shouldn't be running the fan off the ign slot on the fuse block, just the relay to operate it. You need to have the power for the fan coming from the battery itself with an inline fuse. I am running my relay on the same slot I told you to with the recommended fuse, 10A I believe, with no problems.

 

Run the power for the fan through a fuse directly off the battery.

Here is a diagram of how to make it turn on at 210

 

not in the ign slot. in the slot you have yours in. ok got it


http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/...ps70d7e981.jpg

 

this is what I had:
MAIN GROUND: big gauge black cable from BATT to heads, 3 little ones to body in diff. places
HOT: used constant hot from original relay harness thru 25amp inline fuse to 87 (new relay)
FAN: Used the original black/red fan wire from original relay to 30 (new relay)
SWITCH GROUND: Fan switch thru its connector to 85 (new relay)
SWITH HOT: +12V (I had it from 86 (new relay) to IGN in the fuse block (bottom left corner) but it keeps blowing the GAUGES fuse so connect it where?? I see you have yours in the radio slot. thx joe and midias.

 

"not in the ign slot. in the slot you have yours in. ok got it"

That isn't mine, just an image off the web somewhere. It needs to be in the ign slot, batt slot will run after the car is shut off.

Edit: sorry that's the radio slot, but if memory serves me correct, that slot is hot with ignition off as well. (radio constant hot)

 

sorry about the confusion esp after the compliment u gave me I will go home today and try it who knows I might have missed something obvious and just didn't realize it! thx

 

Possible you have the ignition hot and battery hot reversed? I don't see a relay drawing enough amps to blow a fuse.

 

that's what I was thinking (too much of a hurry) as a matter of fact now that I think about it I know that's what wrong!!!!! with me its just been one small overlook after another but I'm learning to pay attention to the details.

my fuel pump wasn't getting power - my batt. wire wasn't connected to junction block
my alt wasn't charging the wire wasn't connected (bad crimp)
my gauges weren't working my gauges fuse was blown

but we going to git it!!!!!!!!!!! and we will be cruising in this monster.

 

Somebody call a priest! This car has issues! I go to fire up car and batt is about dead. I hook jumper cables, change gauges fuse, find out that the hot wires are switched on the relay (thx joe,midias),made a better crimp connection for the fan switch and fired it up after checking the relay for power and ign power I touched the fan switch connector to ground the fan kicked on and ran I then hooked it back up and checked (gauges) fuse and it was fine so we're good.then:

I noticed the brand new oreily. $100alt wasn't charging. I figured (loose wire) checked for voltage on both alt. Wires its got it! So I figure dead short. shut. The car off moved starter wires away from headers via long bar (it was really hot) reconnected batt. And smoke from down by starter. I disconnected batt post and went to bible study disgusted.

 

Alt. Is no good. I switched to a known good batt and still gittn only 12v. Taking it back today. Oh and solved the starter wire shorting with no problems last but not least my fan switch is not working. I connected the ground to the end of the coinnector and thr fan kicks no blown fuses, but even when ran to the point of overheating the fan does not connect to ground and make the fan kick

 

Tested and passed alt. Got another one anyway

 

20amp FAN fuse I put it somewhere else when 1 blew and didn't kno it controled alt "turn on"
Going to heat fan switch with torch then touch ground to see if fans kick

 

Tested all kinds of ways nothing workeD I used my torch she works like a charm. I think the switch is rated higher than its supposed to be. In other words wrong switch in the box! Will be next week b4 I git another one! Mabe this one will be right

 

got a new one from Camaro sentral plugged the 12v wire into use block in radio slot and WE ARE GOOD fan is cycling and summit is letting me return the first switch and sending me a brand new one I will test that on and if it checks out then I will have a good spare> thx fellas