Need some help / suggestions. On another thread I've been working on installing some Edelbrock headers on my sons 1991 Z28, 5.7 Auto. Engine is stock. After fitting the headers, i noticed it wouldn't want to idle correctly and in order to keep the engine running I had to advance the timing a lot. While I was working on this I received a Flowmaster cat back exhaust system for it. I took it down the street to have it installed, came back home, and used engine degreaser to clean the engine. I left it alone for some time after the wash and went to turn it on, I attempted to turn on, it turned off, then I heard a sizzle (as electronic short occurring), unknown from where but it was in the engine somewhere. I tested for spark and no spark. A lot of things were still wet inside, to include the ignition module and throttle body positioning sensor. I dried them but nothing.

Today, I attempted to turn the car on, again it wanted to turn on but died. I check for spark and it was good. I bought a new ignition module anyway and replaced it. Tested for spark and good. Yes crank, wouldn't turn on. Checked for gas pressure at the fuel rail and it was above 45, good. Checked all injectors, all above 16 ohms.

I must have taken the distributor cap off 30 times going back and forth that now I stripped the holes where the distr cap bolts down to. I'll see if I can go get slightly bigger screws for the dist cap.

Before I put my hands in it, it ran and idled good. The only problem was a fan issue that I haven't resolved.

Any suggestions as to what I can check next?

 

Does it try to fire if you spray it with starter fluid?

 

Any codes?

 

Thanks for the replies. I bought bigger screws for the distr cap, put it on, and it starts. I think it needed to dry out????? However same as before, it needs a lot of advance to stay on. Any ideas on that?

 

"Any codes?"

No codes

 

What you did was spray engine degreaser all over, hosed it down...now it won't(or wouldn't) start.

You got moisture up in the cap, and on the dis. base...

So, no idea what "bigger screws" means...but will leave that to you.

Just pop the cap, grab a hairdryer and dry things out...

Unsure about "advancing timing", unless you are loosening he set lock, and twisting the dis around...band if you are, now you will have to get a light, disconnect the EST bypass, and get base timing right.

 

I'm no mechanic by any means but I'm not afraid to take things apart, and put them back together. At this point I might want to take it to a mechanic to get it right. Anyone know of a shop that knows what they're doing with these cars in my area, Rancho Cucamonga, Ontario, Fontana, San Bernardino, Upland, San Dimas California areas? Thanks

 

"So, no idea what "bigger screws" means...but will leave that to you."

"I must have taken the distributor cap off 30 times going back and forth that now I stripped the holes where the distr cap bolts down to. I'll see if I can go get slightly bigger screws for the dist cap. "

I had to get bigger screws to replace the ones that would no longer hold my distributor in because I stripped the original screws. Make sense?

See, I'm no mechanic,,. Yes I meant that I loosened the bolt that holds down the distributor and turned it / twisted it to the right quite a bit to get it to stay on. If I try to go back to where it was originally, it dies. Where is the EST bypass and what does it look like?

BTW, thanks for your help.

 

What you have to do is tap out the next size larger...if youve used larger screws, you have effectively made a tight hole, threaded...now go get the proper tap for the size you used, and run itthrough...gentely...3/4 of a turn in...1/2 turn back...little WD 40 on the tap as you're going, will keep the AL base from galling in the tap thread, ...take your time...just two holes.

ON the pass side fender, you'll find a single connector...dang, forgetting the colr, but tan/blk stripe comes to mind (if you have the emission label still under the hood, will tell you what to look for)...any ways, that is the "EST Bypass" connector...and must be unplugged to set base timing.

You'll need to

Get a timing light, connect to #1 plug wire
disconnect EST connector..

Start car and adjust timing to 6-8* BTDC-marks are kinda hard to find, must look down in the WP area, and spot the balancer and timimng tab on the block).

Then, once timing is set

shut car off
Tighten dis bolt
THEN reconnect EST plug...if you reconnect while engine is running, the SE light will stay on.

So...reconnect AFTER you shut the car off, then light will not be on...

 

Damn, I went outside before I read your last post. I located the EST connector and disconnected it just to see what would happen. I connected it back on before turning it off. I didn't look at the dash lights, I was turning the car on and off from the outside. I'll check for the light.

In order to do this ( disconnect the EST connector and use the timing light to get the timing right) doesn't the car have to be able stay on as u turn/twist the distributor to the left? Because this car wants to die as soon as you start to turn it left.

I did have to take out the distributor in order to lift the engine and change out the oil pan but I put the distributor back exactly as I took it off. If I hadn't installed it right it wouldn't turn on right?

 

Don't worry about left/right...get a light on it...there's absolutely no other way to do it properly in these cars.

In older cars, yes, but not the ones we have

Lemme think...dizzy rotates CW looking down on it, so rotating to the left is retarding the timing...so yes, evetually it will die.

 

Ok, I'll try that. Thank you.

Before pulling the distributor, I had it marked, moved nothing and put it back exactly where it used to be. Compared to where it was, it's way off and when I rev it up, the engine "pings", which tells me it's off and it is as far left as it will go without turning off. But I'll try what u suggested with the timing light.

 

Correct...only possible thing is you may be off (from Ideal) a tooth or two , but only thing that would cause, is you'll run out of adjustment as the wires twist up, , etc.

 

PS...I have about 20 minutes free right now, want me cell number? If so, will PM it to you.

 

Just notice the Edit, and the "ping"...you're too advanced..you may be out of room for adjustment, and might need to pull, rotate the dis a tad (CW one notch) (also get long screwdriver to rotate Oil pump slot the same amount) to get back so you have adjustment.

There's also another trick, but usually needs two people (assuming Oil pump slot won't engage properly)

 

8MIKE9, thanks for all your help. If you can pm me your cell that would be great. I have a friend that I didn't want to bother, but i'll have to this time.

 

Maybe a vacuum leak also? I read u can spray starter fluid around the vacuum lines which would help find them. I'll try that also.

 

Video

Tried to download video didn't work.

 

PM coming, but can't talk for a bit, then will be driving home...try me about 6pm tonight?

Text first if you can, so I know who's calling)

 

8Mike9, I don't know if your on the computer or not but I'll text if I don't get an answer. I left the car alone for the day but I was reading that a high reading in ohms on the injectors is also bad and that could be a problem with the coil, is that true? 4 to 5 of the injectors read 19 to 20 ohms. I've been looking for more information on that but no luck yet.

 

From this website ur inj should read from 10 - 12 ohms http://www.aatecusa.com/obdIIpro/mem...%202_21_01.PDF

 

While looking over the ground connections on the block, i came across the egr valve vacuum line, it was disconnected. I connected it and the pinging is gone. Its running pretty good, now I'll get a timing light.

Progress.

 

There arent screws that hold down the cap. Are you talking about the ignition module?

 

The cap on my 91 is held on with 2 screws.

 

They are held down with 2 screws,,

 

Its not hei?

 

Yes, electronic. I think you might be totally confused unless I'm missing something. What car do you have?

 

86 z mine has four lock tabs to hold down cap

 

There were two different HEI distributors.

The early HEI distributors had the coil in the cap. The cap was retained on the distributor with four push-turn "hooks".

The later HEI had a separate coil and had a smaller diameter cap. The cap was retained with two screws.

 

My bad brah lol

 

ah, there ARE screws that hold down the distributor cap. on my 86 TPI car, which is the coil in cap type.the cap has screws. NOT latches

 

I forgot tpi had that. I had an 88 formula years ago.