armybyrd

iTrader: (4)

So I just drained the oil on the 350 I was going to use for my swap and it's brown and milky which means water or coolant got into the oil. I heard the engine run and it sounded fine and the engines been on the stand covered up since, just shortblock. Also there's a lot of sludge that's light brown or orange like rtv sitting in the pan and around the oil pump. I turned the engine back upright on the stand to let the rest drain out and some has gotten past the Pistons leaking out. At this point should I just tear the engine down? How do I know if it needs machine work?

8Mike9

Look at the top of the cylinders, is there a ridge there?...wipe a bore down clean, is there any crosshatch pattern left?

Gives an indication...only real way to see what you can and cannot do is tear it down and have the tools to measure everything.

armybyrd

iTrader: (4)

There's no cross hatch and there is a lip. It's a late 70s block so not sure if it's been over bored before. Would it be a Terrible idea to clean everything up and change oil pump then use?

BASSETT IROC 85

iTrader: (2)

shoot us some pics. but it does sound like it may need a rebuild.

armybyrd

iTrader: (4)

Just took all of the Pistons out. I'll try and post some pics. But nothing looks out of place. If I wanted to use new pistons would the whole rotating assembly need to be rebalanced?

8Mike9

Naw...not if you stick to something in a factory range...thing is, why replace pistons?..just for CR increase?

Heads might be a better choice.

You'd want to check the bores for taper..issue with running new rings with a ridge, is the new rings can "bump" into the ridge, where the old rings have probably a bit of wear on top.

At a minimum if machine work is out of your budget, you need a ridge cutter...and some one with you who knows how to use it properly.

Were the pistons standard bore?...clean the tops off real well, and see if you find ".030" on them.

Now would also be a good time to measure the crank and rod journals as well, also look for taper..and signs of odd wear in the bearings.

armybyrd

iTrader: (4)

I actually just had a pair of vortec heads done and yes was considering replacing them with flattops for more compression. About to pick up some carb cleaner and clean all of the Pistons off.

8Mike9

I'd not be thinking of new pistons in a worn bore, if on a tight budget, then just cut the ridge, use new rings on the old pistons.

Again, check the journals over..if they look good and spec good, put in new bearings and call it a day for that end of it...a peppier cam and good timing set will be next on the list, then go have some fun

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

If your putting vortecs on, it sounds like you want better performance.

Have the basic machine work done and do a full rebuild. You will get better ring seal and an engine that will perform better, get better mileage and last longer.

The basic bore hone, hot tank, work is less than $300.

Look at northern auto parts for a master rebuild kit. For a 2 pc rear main seal 350 the full master kit is around $200, with upgrade options at a reduced price. You can upgrade to flat top pistons, better cam, double roller timing chain set, etc and have a good full performance based master kit for $300-350 easy.

armybyrd

iTrader: (4)

Taking the engine to a machine shop friday to have everything looked at.

armybyrd

iTrader: (4)

I just dropped my engine off at the machine shop. It's standard bore and they will be boring it 30 over. I plan on reusing the stock crank and rods. Any input on which pistons to go with? I'll be using vortec heads, a performer intake, quadrajet, and comp cams xe274 cam. Also I was quote $650 for the block to be decked, honed and bored as well as new freeze plugs. Is this average or?

RamIt

Does that include hot tanking? Cam bearings?

armybyrd

iTrader: (4)

Yes

RamIt

If it was me I would get a price from a different reputable shop in the area.
Seems close but a little high for my area.

armybyrd

iTrader: (4)

Actually Just Did that. Another shop said $575. I think I'll be alright considering I'll know exactly what I have versus some randomly built crate engine. Plus it's a project car and I've always wanted to build my own engine.

RamIt

Just to make you feel better, I bought a vortec crate and was kinda disappointed when I saw that there was specks of debris in the heads, zero oil other than misting to prevent rust and no assembly lubricant.

armybyrd

iTrader: (4)

I have a feeling the guy I spoke to at the shop is trying to milk me for money though. I told him I would be putting the engine together and it's my first one and he said I was fvcked then started to say that it I even put a little scratch on the crank it all has to be taken apart. I think I'll be ok though.

RamIt

If you scratched a journal it has to be polished or turned.
If he meant your fuxored because it's your first build find another shop.
1st one I built was a great long lasting engine.

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

Yeah with you being a 1st timer, and his attitude towards you, I say find another shop ASAP.

In this game/hobby finding a machine shop is a lot like finding your doctor. You need someone that can and will answer your questions, talk to you on your level, not look down on you, help guide you along the way. Most good machinists will do that for a 1st timer.

Also that price sounds HIGH to me. I'm an engine builder by trade but do not have a machine shop so I frame out my machine work.

The shop I use, with no discounts. (I get a shop rate for my customer's engines but I pay full price for my own.. It helps me keep my books in order you know)
Last one I had done for myself was 3/25/2011
$290 Machine work.. Bore&hone, hot tank, check heads for cracks
install cam bearings & frost plugs, pin fit pistons.
The decking of block on yours would add another $125

Do you have any of the engine parts yet? If not look at this kit
http://www.northernautoparts.com/part/ek-ek1070
Starts at $220, plus cheap upgrade options.

You asked about pistons, get that kit and upgrade to
Sealed Power Hypereutectic H345DCP coated flattop piston..for pressed or floating pin... LR63 must be ordered for use with bushed rods $29.64

You said you wanted to run the XE274... They have that upgrade option too.. They have specs listed wrong, but right PN
Comp Xtreme #12-246-3 274/286 adv duration .490 .490 lift $117.09

Cloyes Hvy Duty Double Roller 3 Key-way C3023XSP $10.42

So for around $400 you can get your full performance master rebuilt kit

armybyrd

iTrader: (4)

The only other parts I have are the vortec heads which have already been upgraded with ls6 springs, comp cams roller tip rockers and the performer intake.
The guy came off kinda rough but my friend assured me that he's got a good reputation and knows what he's doing. I do plan on picking up a book on rebuilds to guide me along plus with this site and the Internet I think I'll be fine.