Hi, I have a 1988 Pontiac Firebird with a 350 TPI... I've been having trouble getting it timed right because of some issues that hopefully one day I will resolve, and I hate to just ignore them... but anyways, the issue is that there is no timing indicator for the balancer. When I took it to a shop, they told me the balancer didnt line up properly, but a technician just pulled the spark plug and bumped it to TDC and timed it that way. Which was fine, until I had to do some work on it and ended up replacing the distributor. Now, I have this issue where it seems to me like it is pinging, but quite honestly no matter which way i turn the distributor, it still sounds like it pings (though it does seem to get better in one direction, it just stalls or runs rough if i take it too far either direction). I swear I read somewhere that you can hook up a scan tool to your vehicle, turn the distributor until it sets off the knock sensor, then turn it back a couple degrees. I believe it also said you can sort of double check it with a vacuum gauge, and in theory you will notice your vacuum get to its highest point, and when you turn the distributor back it should go back down a couple inches.

Now I would much rather do it the right way and just get everything to line up the way it should and then time it, but I don't have the time/money to do it. I just want to get it back on the road and have some confidence that I'm not tearing it up. So any thoughts on that method of timing it?

P.S. The work I was doing to it when I replaced the distributor, was painting the whole upper intake. I sat the injectors in order (hanging by their wires), but when I went to go put it back together I realized that #5 and #7 were both kind of dangling.. somehow got bumped (I knew I should of just taped them). If those two got switched around, could that cause a pinging sound? Because I do not notice any real activity from my knock sensor when watching the data.

 

I'll answer 2 questions for you, there is no way that I know of to use a scan tool to set physical timing. These aren't like an OBD II system that utilizes a cam/crank sensor. (My 411 swap does use a scan tool to set timing but its a newer system.) Lol. If anybody does say another way I'll learn something too, so that's why I posted what I know.

These cars use a batch fire system. Injectors 1,3,5,7 are on one bank and 2,4,6,8 is on the other.

 

No not that I know of.

It does not cost much to get this right.
Buy an adjustable bolt on timing pointer. Under $6
Summit racing # SPE-4237 $2.97 or
TRD-9179 $5.97

Then buy timing tape (or make your own)
Uni fit kit with tape for 5.25" to 8" damper sizes # MSD-8985 $4.97

The adjustable pointer bolts on to front of engine using 2 timing cover bolts.
The timing tape just peel and stick around your harmonic damper lining 0 on tape with the engraved line on your damper.

Plug #1 plug, find TDC, adjust pointer to line with 0/TDC mark on damper

Now you can check and set timing like normal with a timing light.

If you don't have a timing light, you can get a cheap one at harbor freight for $20 http://www.harborfreight.com/xenon-t...ight-3343.html

Or their next step up for $33 http://www.harborfreight.com/timing-...nce-40963.html

Or even better units by actron and innove from summit or at parts store for $33-36
At summit racing they are #ANM-CP7527 and #INO-3551

 

Sure you can set timing by knock counts. They don't have to be zero, just make sure the number stays low. You also don't need the timing marks. Just mark the balancer and a fixed spot on the cover. Then keep a careful log of results on how far up or down from the starting point you set the timing. Make sure you unplug the bypass when making adjustments.

And as metioned above, it doesn't matter is you mix up injector #5 and #7 since they are batch fired odd and even.

 

If the balancer is off I would personally just toss it and pick another up. Odds are the elastomer ring is failing and allowing the inertia ring to move. If you do get timing tape, it may still move again. New balancer can be had for pretty cheap (~ $50 from Summit) and the installation tools can be rented from your local autoparts store. Installation is maybe about 1 hour or so.

If you dont know the base timing, than everything else doesn't matter. Newer GM SBC distributors for OBD-II apps have position sensors in them so you can pretty much just plop them in near TDC, but these older ones dont, so they need to be set right or everything else will be wrong.

 

I don't know about fuel injected cars but I always set my timing on carb motors with my tach. Turn your cap tell you get the highest RPM and tighten it back down.

 

If you decide to by a timing gun buy one with a digital display showing RPMs.

Your going to need the RPM feature when you set minimum idle speed.

Heres the gun I bought and the one I sujest.

Link =

 

The timing light Ron mentioned is the same one I have. Great timing gun, works with points, HEI, MSD 6A, mallory 685 digital box, etc

 

This is a TPI car. I reads the entire post. None of you never mention anything about unplugging the est tan wire before setting the timing.

 

That should be part of the procedure for any of them. My tbi had to unplug the est wire also iirc. Lol

 

Yep, that's the procedure for all the GM EFI engines of the 80's and early 90's. TBI and TPI, car and truck.

 

At this point this will not help "Jaysome".

Here's the procedure for setting timing.
I'm not going into detail at this time so
I'll make it simple.

Disconnect the EST wire, start car, bring car to operating temperature, adjust timing, shut off car , reconnect EST wire.
( EST = Electronic Spark Timing )

Its on the passenger's side back corner next to the blower motor on my TBI.

 

Re-read post #4.