Ok, it all started with only an alternator upgrade. I had a broken bolt on the bracket for the belt tensioner and one thing led to another along with beers. Before I knew it, the water pump was coming off, then the valve covers, then the TPI, then the intake.....
Like a moron, I pulled the distributor without looking at where the rotor was pointed. I was running the timing advanced a few degrees. I have a timing light, but I want to get the timing close so I don't cause damage etc. Here is a pic of the timing mark on the balancer as it sits now. Any other tips will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!



timing mark is on upper portion of tab

 

Put balancer mark at 0* with #1 piston at TDC compression stroke, stab distributor in with rotor button pointing to #1 spark plug wire tower on the cap. Then set your timing with the light, next time lay off the beer when work'n on your car.....

 

thanks Rob. Yeah, it started out as a 3 beer job and it escalated quickly.

 

The dampner mark lined up with 0* mark on the timing tab can be cyl #1 at TDC or cyl #6 at TDC. U can pull the drivers side vlv cover (or both vlv covers) and see if both vlvs on #1 are closed for ready to fire or part open in overlap (in that case cyl #6 is ready to fire). U want both vlvs closed on cyl#1 it when u spike the dist and the dist rotor is pointing at the #1 plug wire post.

If u hear a lot of backfiring u either have the dist rotor 180* off or the dist is at least 1 tooth off.

Good luck.

 

 

What am I looking for if both valves are closed? The shortest amount of push rod to the rocker? I got valve covers off, and it is not real obvious between the 2 cylinders. The closed valves will both be even (push rod)? Sorry for sounding like a newb. I'm in uncharted territory for me.

 

u r gonna have to rotate the motor and watch the valves on cly 1 watch the intake open look at the exhaust manifold and the rocker inline with that is the exhaust. i think the 2nd rocker in is intake. the pushrod will come up when that pushrod goes back down and stops watch the damper timing marks when the line goes to zero u r at tdc u r dist will point exactly at the num 1 plug wire terminal also ease up on the beers when working on car lol

 

What am I looking for if both valves are closed? The shortest amount of push rod to the rocker? I got valve covers off, and it is not real obvious between the 2 cylinders. The closed valves will both be even (push rod)?


There should be a noticeable difference when u look at the two cyls (#1 & #6). When u look across the head at the rocker arms u must be able to see the difference on the height of the vlv spring retainers. Try and hold a straight edge like a ruler across the vlv spring retainers. U should be able to see the vlv springs compressed some on the cyl with the vlvs are open and the rockers should be somewhat tight. When the vlvs are shut the rocker arms seem almost loose - but they better not be loose enough to move off the p-rod. But u should find with the straight edge the vlv retainers only go a max height (on the vlvs that are shut) and u can measure this height with a accurate little machinists rule (1/64ths divisions).

Let us know if u need more assistance but that should help. Dont want to keep babbling and that maybe more distracting than help.

 

Thank you for all the great info. I'm in the process of porting my intake and plenum and using less beer. I will let you know how it turns out. Thanks again!

 

Dang, all this just to stab a distributor in ?

Just put your thumb over #1 plug hole, have someone bump the starter until you feel compression leak from around your thumb. Rotate the engine by hand the direction of rotation until the balancer mark is on O* then stab it in !

No need to worry about valves-rockers-pushrods or what other valves are do'n.....