Hey guys,
....so I've read countless threads on practically every car forum about guys taking apart a lifter and making it "solid" for checking purposes. Seems a lot of guys have newly assembled heads and don't want to remove the valve train for light weight check springs. Same boat here. ...anyhow, I'll be using retro lifters with link bars, so they won't work. Is it safe for me to measure the lifter (down in the cup) and get an accurate length, then simply use an old hyd lifter I have lying around, dis-assemble it, and make the it the same length?

Getting ready to place a big order, and I'll be ready to check pushrod length fairly soon!!!!!

 

you can order anything you need from the major cam companys . i would suspect . i would be leery of a home built one .especially on something as critical as push rod length. measure twice , cut once

 

Yeah, there's ALOT of SERIOUSLY LAZY people in the world, and they're all posting on the Internet, trying to find out how to get out of doing the work they need to do if they want their build to turn out right. You're smarter than that. Don't be one of .... them.

Coupla ways of handling this...

You could get a lifter that's EXACTLY IDENTICAL THE SAME AS the ones you're using (no "almost"!!! no "that's all I could find"!!! no "but it's too hard"!!!) and take it apart, and either fill it with grease, or stack washers inside it. Leave a little bit of clearance to simulate preload. You could even use one of the ones in your set, as long as you don't damage it in the process.

You could measure the plunger travel, subtract a reasonable preload amount from that to get lifter height, use the adjustable push rod method, and subtract the calculated lifter height from your adjustable push rod length.

No it is NOT acceptable to use some random lifter you have "laying around", which might or (more likely) might not be the same length as whatever lifters you're actually using. Makes about as much sense as measuring a piston you have laying around instead of the ones you're installing, then boring your block to match it.

 

You don't need solid lifters to check the pushrod length. You also don't need to remove the head to install lightweight valve springs. An air source into the spark plug hole will keep the valves closed. You then need a tool that can compress the spring to remove the keepers.

You just need to replace a set of valve springs with lightweight checking springs. The springs will be strong enough to keep the valves closed but will be light enough than when baring the engine over to get a witness mark on the valve stem they won't collapse the spring inside the lifter.

Another option for laziness is an install height gauge. You place it on the rocker stud and it sits on the valve tip. This gives the correct geometry angle. You then adjust the pushrod length so that it contacts the lifter and height gauge to figure out the proper length of pushrod required. You don't even have to turn the engine over. Just make sure the lifters are on the base circle.

You need one of these.

 

Some aftermarket lifters have same dimensions as gm. I used a ls7 lifter i converted to solid to do my pushrods on my morel link bars

 

I use the same tool as Alky. For street motor close is good enough. If u shop p-rods u only find them in 0.50" increments. Anything more accurate will be custom. When i ordered my TrickFlow p-rods they came with the ordered length stenciled on each one. And they still measured a few thou longer than that. Not a big deal at all as my wear patch was as good as it gets.

Let the NASCAR kids worry 'bout exact size p-rods. Thats what lifter preload is for. I have both the ProForm and the Moroso tool and they will measure a little different between them. But it aint gonna make a diff. Just get the springs u intend to use on your heads (no need for checking springs) and install the heads. Get the lifter on "base circle" and measure the gap on p-rod side of rocker arm if p-rod to short with a feeler gauge. Or measure the gap on the vlv tip side w/feeler gauge if p-rod is too long. Dont push or press on anything just slip in the feeler gauge to measure. Feeler gauge size is the difference between the p-rod u used and the size p-rod u need.

 

My BBC has shaft mounted rockers. The tool I use is a lot different but it does the same thing. With longer intake valves for bigger springs and race heads, my pushrods are nowhere close to stock length. When I first installed my shaft rockers, I couldn't get anywhere close to a proper length intake pushrod. No matter what I tried, I ran out of adjustment trying to get the rocker higher. A call to the manufacturer and they swapped the intake pedestals for some taller ones for only the cost of shipping. Once the rockers were sitting in the correct position, pushrod length was easy to calculate. My shaft rockers are sold by Comp Cams but are made by T&D.

 

Ooops! Ok i guess i mean i have the ProForm tool in the picture on Alky's post #4. For nearly any street motor it will get the job done.

 

Hey guys, thanks for the responses. I typically try to do things as "proper" as possible, but of course if there's a safe, accurate easy way, I'm all for it. When that's not safe or accurate though, I'll always do it the "right" way.