Noisy Fuel Pump and Stalling
10-22-2018, 05:10 PM
#1
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Car: 1991 Camaro Z28
Engine: TPI 5.7
Noisy Fuel Pump and Stalling
A bad problem has been plaguing my 91 Z28. Happens when I drive about 20 miles. It’ll be fine on the highway, but as soon as I stop and idle, the fuel pump starts to whine super loud, and eventually the car stalls. After letting it sit for about a day, it’s fine. Is it bad wiring? Bad fuel pump? Fuel Filter?
10-22-2018, 05:53 PM
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Car: 1991 Camaro Z28
Engine: TPI 5.7
Re: Noisy Fuel Pump and Stalling
Any ballpark figures on how much it’d cost for a mechanic to replace it? I’m enrolled in high school and college, and have a job. I’m not against doing it myself but I’m a little too busy to pull out a rear end right now.
10-22-2018, 06:19 PM
#4
Re: Noisy Fuel Pump and Stalling
I have seen on threads quotes from $4-800. The rear shocks can be unbolted and the exhaust might be able to drop some or the intermediate pipe can be cut. It’s really not a bad job like everyone makes it out to be. The hardest part is dealing with the filler neck removing and reinstalling.
10-23-2018, 01:21 AM
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Car: 1987 Z28 Camaro
Engine: 305 LG4 4bbl
Transmission: TH700R4
Re: Noisy Fuel Pump and Stalling
It seems half of this forum hates the idea and the other half loves it.
Certainly saved me a lot of hours when my fuel pump went. Now if it dies again it can be changed on the side of the road.
Certainly saved me a lot of hours when my fuel pump went. Now if it dies again it can be changed on the side of the road.
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10-23-2018, 10:29 AM
#8
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Car: 92 Firebird
Engine: 4.8 LR4
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.45 9 Bolt
Re: Noisy Fuel Pump and Stalling
Access hole opens up the possibility of getting fuel into the cabin in a rear end collision, it isn't worth the risk. The rear hatch area is part of the crumple zone, that area deforms when hit hard enough in the rear
10-23-2018, 06:41 PM
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Car: 1987 Z28 Camaro
Engine: 305 LG4 4bbl
Transmission: TH700R4
Re: Noisy Fuel Pump and Stalling
Between my access hole and my tank (bottom side) is a 3ft square piece of fire and corrosive resistant rubber sheeting much larger than the hole. Over the hole itself is a fully covered gasket made of corrosive resistant plastic sheeting which is RTV'd to the floor. On top of that is a piece of steel which has been shaped to the hole, fastened down and sealed with RTV. On top of that is sound deadening foam and on top of that is the carpet. Do the access door job half decently and you minimise the risk of fuel in the cabin.
The crumple zone i cant do much about but lets not kid ourselves, 80's vehicles arent renowned for their amazing crumple zones...
I'm more worried about my lack of airbags & all round disc brakes.
The crumple zone i cant do much about but lets not kid ourselves, 80's vehicles arent renowned for their amazing crumple zones...
I'm more worried about my lack of airbags & all round disc brakes.
10-23-2018, 07:10 PM
#10
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Car: 92 Firebird
Engine: 4.8 LR4
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.45 9 Bolt
Re: Noisy Fuel Pump and Stalling
This video negates anything you think you did is sufficient enough to prevent fuel front getting in the cabin in a rear collision. Seeing as as a majority of accidents are front/rear endings, I think it prudent not advocate something that could ruin your life one day
10-23-2018, 08:52 PM
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Car: 1987 Z28 Camaro
Engine: 305 LG4 4bbl
Transmission: TH700R4
Re: Noisy Fuel Pump and Stalling
I think the video shows that we are basically screwed regardless so lighten up mate.
10-24-2018, 09:08 AM
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Car: 92 Firebird
Engine: 4.8 LR4
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.45 9 Bolt
Re: Noisy Fuel Pump and Stalling
The person in that video would have survived that crash, but if fuel had gotten in the cabin, they probably wouldn't have. Your life is your life, but don't advocate for others to feel like they are making a decision that is safe.
10-24-2018, 08:41 PM
#13
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Re: Noisy Fuel Pump and Stalling
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