Hello,

I recently restarted working on my 1988 Iroc project car with the 5.0 TPI. This car has been in the barn sitting for 12 years. When the car was parked it ran good. I now have no spark or power to the distributor. When I cycle the key on it acts normal and dose not even have the service engine light on. I have just replaced the starter, fuel pump, spark module and now the coil. Since I have replaced the Spark module on the firewall, I have now found the new coil is getting power to one of the plugs on top of the coil when the key is in the "On" position but the other plug to the distributor, has no power. I just replaced the Coil with a OEM, so I am stuck on what to try next, Please help! Also, prior to parking the car, I put on new spark plugs, wires and distributor cap that are still in good condition.

I do not know where to go next. Please help! I would love to drive this car again.

 

If the pink wire doesn’t have power at the icm key on ohm the wire once removed. It could have a break in it. You can find a new one on eBay. Make sure for tpi tbi is to short.

 

ok so the ignition control has a pink wire that needs power, that could be the issue and could possibly be a broken pink wire, I will check that tonight, thank you. Is the pink wire an come from the key/ ignition switch?

 

Yes it’s the same pink wire power from ignition switch.
feeds the coil then sends power through the jumper to the icm.
if you have power there ohm the pickup coil and test acv output while cranking.

 

Well I just checked the wires going into the distributor module, both the pink wire and the white or yellow wire have power with key on. I do not have a multimeter so I cannot get a gage on the power rating but I'm still stuck with a car with no spark.

 

But a vom check up coil output. I didn’t think there would be voltage on the switching white wire . Sounds like a corroded pu coil.

 

update, I have finally fixed the no spark problem, I took out the distributor and cleaned it all up and found the pickup coil was bad, it was green with corrosion, brittle and broken. I replaced the pickup coil, very cheap part and I now have spark and the car will now start. That brings the next issue, it will start but will not stay running. I will be creating a new question forum for the new problems.....

Now my car will fire and start up, and when it starts it starts up strong, and dose not have a rough idol it will run for 2 seconds and then it will stall out. If I try to give it any gas it immediately dies and dose not run for the 2 seconds. I do not feel it is a gas or electric problem because I feel, I have replaced everything with the fuel and electric on the motor. Since my last post I replaced fuel in the tank with new and fresh fuel, replaced the fuel line from the tank to the fuel filter, and replaced the fuel filter. I now have strong fuel pressure at the rail and I checked all injectors with a multi meter. All Injectors showed a .16 for DC/resistance.. I assume that is a good reading on them since they were all the same and when it dose run it runs smooth. One odd thing I noticed is when it starts both radiator fans run, and the car is not anywhere close to being hot, this might be noting but I though I should mention it. Also it still has no check light on. Any additional help would be appreciated, I am currently stuck on where to go next again. Thanks.

 

Could have a few issues, a faulty ecm will cause fans to run koeo and started when not commanded on.
since it sat for so long I would be the injectors are varnished. Southbay fuel injectors has the older bosch a direct 19#hr swap for a 305 better than servicing your injectors.

 

any kind of tests I can do before spending $150 on new injectors?

 

Injectors are inexpensive solution for varnished injectors.
you can’t see spray pattern but can watch individual pressure drop.
will the ecm communicate with a scanner or datalogger ? Or even blink in field service mode?

 

if you decide to purchase the injectors all tgo members receive 10% off .

BTW...thanks tuned performance

 

Agree with the above posts it might be worth replacing the injectors, its not a fun job but they go bad really easily. One other thing I can think of is maybe a bad MAF sensor, or make sure the base timing is set correctly to 6 degrees since you had removed the distributor

 

Update! Smooth running Iroc now. I found I have only been getting 11psi of fuel to the rails. It has been puzzling me because the first thing I did when starting this project was a new fuel pump. I did not believe it was only getting 11psi because I knew it was a new pump. After using 2 different pressure testers on the car and both showing only 11psi, I looked into the pump some more. I did a fuel flow test on the pump and the volume of fuel it put out was what the manual said it should put out but it did not build more pressure than 11psi. I bought a Autozone pump just to try it out to see if there would be any change. That Finally fixed it and it is running pretty good now. Moral of the story, I originally cheeped out and bought an Amazon fuel pump called a "GM Genuine Part". The price was around $45 i think and much less than what the auto parts stores wanted. I DO NOT! Recomend Amazon fuel pumps they will waste your time... I thank you all very much for all of your help. I am still considering doing the injectors soon to make it run even better. Thanks again everyone! I love this site for all the knowledge and help on here.

 

Too funny going through all this as we speak on an 85 Iroc 305tpi. Been sitting for 15 yrs by the tags. Car had sank like a foot into the ground. Got it to start but it was on 7 cyls. it needed a cap and rotor now it is running on all 8 again but wont rev just dies when you hit the gas, unplug the Maf and it revs good just idles like crap. thought i had a vac leak but spray test didnt show anything. I replaced the IAC so its new. Tested the TPS and adj to .54. Think I am going to have to break down and buy the MAF but damn they be proud of those things. I'll have to keep the fuel pump in mind as I dont have a fuel pressure gauge at the moment.

 

I would pick up a gauge if possible they are cheap and takes about 5 minutes to check fuel pressure. Also keep in mind the injectors could be fouled after sitting for that long