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Tech / General EngineIs your car making a strange sound or won't start? Thinking of adding power with a new combination? Need other technical information or engine specific advice? Don't see another board for your problem? Post it here!
So I just installed an Edelbrock base to a set of Flowtek 180 aluminum heads. Took a look down the intake ports and noticed this. Down the shaft on the left where it meets the head, is the actual head. As if the ports aren't lined up. You can see the edge of a head Port. This is on cylinders 3, 7, 2 and 8. The head lines up with the gasket and the intake lines up with the gasket on their own. But once together that's what it looks like. It's bolted down in that photo and the bolts lined up perfectly. Anyone ever notice this before? Doesn't seem right.
Aftermarket parts often need adjustment to line up. Some are lucky n others with the same exact part, well it needs A Lot of work.
I've had multiple eddy dual plane intakes that needed the ports aligned, the bolt holes opened up so they don't distort the flange n leak, or on one the flange angle wasn't correct(the same as heads that I used other intakes on w/o issue) so it leaked and pulled oil from the valley. The most recent New eddy intake that I bought a few years ago, an eps was not bad tho but the two New rpm air gaps about a decade or so ago had issues.. Being a TPI base who knows when it was cast, unless there is a date code on the intake or box.
Thing is unless your boosting, the engine pulls/draws/sucks in. While this mismatch is not ideal, it's still not the end of the world. A recent sim discussion https://www.speed-talk.com/forum/vie...hp?f=1&t=66182
The ports with the pushrod pinch side showing, in my opinion I'd not open the head/intake anymore on the pushrod side. Can you slot the intake bolt holes to give you a good-ish alignment on all? Still most the flow is center of the port and long as the injectors aren't obstructed and the gasket seals.
Aftermarket parts often need adjustment to line up. Some are lucky n others with the same exact part, well it needs A Lot of work.
I've had multiple eddy dual plane intakes that needed the ports aligned, the bolt holes opened up so they don't distort the flange n leak, or on one the flange angle wasn't correct(the same as heads that I used other intakes on w/o issue) so it leaked and pulled oil from the valley. The most recent New eddy intake that I bought a few years ago, an eps was not bad tho but the two New rpm air gaps about a decade or so ago had issues.. Being a TPI base who knows when it was cast, unless there is a date code on the intake or box.
Thing is unless your boosting, the engine pulls/draws/sucks in. While this mismatch is not ideal, it's still not the end of the world. A recent sim discussion https://www.speed-talk.com/forum/vie...hp?f=1&t=66182
The ports with the pushrod pinch side showing, in my opinion I'd not open the head/intake anymore on the pushrod side. Can you slot the intake bolt holes to give you a good-ish alignment on all? Still most the flow is center of the port and long as the injectors aren't obstructed and the gasket seals.
Problem is if I slot the holes to move the intake I'll come off the China wall and throw 1, 5, 2 and 6 out of whack. It's just odd because the gasket lined up with both parts individually but together, not so much. But if it's not going to be a big deal then I'll just leave well enough alone. Aluminum threads don't take well to constantly being torqued so I'd rather not start bolting and unbolting to try and massage perfect alignment if it's not going to make any real noticeable improvement.
Problem is if I slot the holes to move the intake I'll come off the China wall and throw 1, 5, 2 and 6 out of whack. It's just odd because the gasket lined up with both parts individually but together, not so much. But if it's not going to be a big deal then I'll just leave well enough alone. Aluminum threads don't take well to constantly being torqued so I'd rather not start bolting and unbolting to try and massage perfect alignment if it's not going to make any real noticeable improvement.
Well only you know what yah got to work with n how much you could shift the intake n keep the china wall sealed. I always fit/tape the gasket to the head, set the intake on and then tape the gasket to the intake before lifting them off to see how it aligns for the intake, then trim/align the intake if possible(why I prefer smaller port intakes). I wouldn't worry bout snugging down the intake several times, if it moves A Lot when tightening down bolts, then I'd say the holes need opened up anyway to not shift/distort the flange. The head is new so the threads should be great and if your bolts are good quality, have good thread length engagement and in good condition and you don't over torque them.
Bring the Engine and the Manifold to someone that Ports Heads and Manifolds.
Someone Good! But still yah might end up with 200cc heads and then you could of just bought the next size bigger heads to start with. Well a skilled porter would make the ported 180cc to 200cc heads better than cast 200cc heads but it won't be cheap!
Thats about how well or poorly the stock Vortec heads mate to the stock truck manifold. Big part of my decision to have Lloyd Elliot port the heads and why I ported the manifold to match.
I just meant for the most optimal alignment of the Intake Ports from the Cylinder Heads to the Intake Manifold (and Gaskets)...
Have a Machinist/ Porter align everything (with the Die-Grinder) as best as possible.
A simple yet excellent way of keeping everything aligned (for the future) when disassembling and reassembling the Engine...
Drill a 1/16" Hole threw the Intake Manifold Flange into the Cylinder Head (and Gasket) Mating-Surface, just 1/8" deep...
For all 4 corners of the Intake Manifold.
When reassembling, drop 1/8" Drill-Bits threw the 4 Holes to nicely realign the Intake Manifold and Gaskets to the Intake Ports of the Cylinder Head.
