Hey guys, got a 91 rs 305 tbi, the wiring has been kind of butchered. The fans were wired to be on all the time, I got a new fan switch and connector since the one in the car has a just tip and the connector was missing. I found two relays driver side firewall corner area (shown in picture) one has 4 wires which I believe to be the fan relay. The other from what I've read seems to be the fuel pump relay? It has 5 wires coming out. My question is are there two fan relays or just the one?

 

There is only one. It's the one toward the right in that pic, with all those butt splices and yellow wires. (I HATE IT when my butt gets spliced)

Lots of sodomy in progress there. Best to figure out what fornication has been visited upon it, and restore it to a virgin state, near as possible after such an offense.

 

Alright cool, I have already worked on restoring it to a virgin state haha! So the diagram I have shows a black/pink wire and a black/red wire that go to each of the fans, does the black and pink connect to the pin that currently just has the empty butt connector on it? Not outside to look atw high letter pin it is. This is the diagram I have been going off of.

 

Not sure what kind of vehicle that wiring diagram is for... I kinda think it's probably for a dual-fan TPI car, not for a TBI car... butt whatever it is, it has 2 relays. One feeds the one fan via the blk/red wire when it operates, the other feeds the other fan via the blk/pink when IT operates. If you don't have 2 fans and 2 relays, you probably also don't have the blk/pink wire.

That relay looks as though somebody replaced the wiring using a pigtail. Maybe it and/or the original relay burned up or was otherwise damaged, which is not uncommon. It looks kinda like it's a 5-pin relay & pigtail, i.e. more "universal" than the original; the 5th terminal would go to the contact inside the relay that's shown on that schematic as just a dot with no connection to the outside world, which would be energized when the relay IS NOT operated (one that's referred to as "normally closed") while the one that you'd use to power a fan would be energized when the relay IS operated ("normally open").

Your car also doesn't have the grey wire to the fan switch. It only has the dkgrn/wht circuit, operating the only relay it has. In a word, that schematic doesn't match your kind of car or its actual parts & wiring.

 

So mine does have two fans, that's what is throwing me off. Two fans but only one relay, so I'm trying to figure out how to wire the fans then I guess. Do I just wire them both to the black/red wire then up to the relay? Would that burn up the wiring or relay with being too much draw or something?

 

Your car MAY have 2 fans; after all, ANYBODY can bolt a dual-fan assy into a car that didn't come with it; butt it has ONLY ONE fan relay. THE CAR is not equipped for dual fans even if they're "installed" (I use the word loosely) in it.

Meaning, somebody has had their peter-pullers in there and executed some Sodomic swappage.

In fact, it's not impossible that that's why the relay and/or pigtail burned up and got replaced: whoever did the dual-fan thing didn't understand electrons well enough to figure out that a relay and harness carefully designed to be JUST ENOUGH to carry the current of ONE fan motor, might be inadequate to carry the current demanded by TWO such motors. Much like running too much horsepucker through too little transmission, the excessive current DESTROYED those parts and drove an immediate critical need for replacement.

See my signature for a handy mental discipline to use when evaluating random puzzling real-world situations you may encounter along your path of life.

 

Makes sense, I have been playing around with the car and found I may have bigger issues than the cooling fan haha. Did a compression test and 1 and 3 cylinders are 40 and 75 psi. Stuck a camera in the spark plug hole of cylinder 1 before it got dark and didn't see anything too crazy piston looked fine and cylinder wall also looked okay. I did see one of the valves was all the way open even though the piston seemed to be at the bottom of its stroke from what I could tell. I am wondering if maybe a stuck valve? Going to look in cyl 3 when I get home from work and see what I can see. Fun stuff 😁

 

Valves hardly ever "stick" unless they get bent somehow. In which case, what you REALLY have is a "bent" valve, not so much a "stuck" one, you're just happening to discover that it's bent by way of it hanging up in the guide. More likely cause of a valve not closing is, a broken spring.

The exh valve should open at the bottom of the power stroke just before the exh stroke starts, reach full open about halfway up, then close shortly after the end of the exh stroke at TDC and the beginning of the int stroke. The int valve should be opening just as the exh is closing, at TDC, then as the piston descends during the int stroke, should be full open about halfway down, and close shortly after BDC at the end of the int stroke and beginning of the comp stroke. Might not be a bad idea to observe the valve motion as your assistant turns the motor slowly and carefully by hand with all the plugs out.

2 adjacent cyls with very low compression often is caused by the head gasket being blown between those 2 cyls.