Thinking about removing the smog pump.
I have headers that have the tubes.
Is there a cap that can be used to replace the valve?

 

Pretty sure the threads are ½" NPT. So, yeah. No problem.

 

Nice when the small things are easy.
Thanks sofakingdom

 

I used a brass npt fitting for 10 years. I totally got some harassment for it but it worked. When I needed to re-coat my headers I cut the tubes and welded the holes closed. Had them for 3 years after that and had no issues. Not having the tubes makes it easier to work on and around the engine.

 

I'll paint it silver to match.
Next time time I remove the headers, I'll do the same.
Did you use a shorter belt or a idler ?

 

All that's been gone since 1998ish but I think the smog pump on the 82s had its own belt/pulley system. I think thats how it was unless it was a serpentine setup. And those I don't know about.

 

The AIR system needs to be disabled in the bin as well.

When the ECM activates the AIR system, it institutes a 100mV offset in its interpretation of the O2 sensor readings to compensate for the added O2 that the AIR system puts into the exhaust stream. If the extra O2 is no longer there, it'll throw off the fuel trims.

 

Idler pulley is the better solution because the upper bolt attaches to the block and it is unsupported with nothing in that spot. They're on ebay for like $40.

 

Should be all V-Belts on an '82

You can weld 'em up on the car.

 

yeah, they were Vs

Welding them would be doable on the car, coating them would be a bit tougher though!

 

I no. I was telling the OP, in case he was "waiting" to take 'em off like you did, to weld 'em. He doesn't have to wait, b/c he (may not be) coating them. HE could go ahead and weld his in, any time.

 

Got it, makes sense.


it's interesting about the programing needing modification w/o the air pump. It totally makes sense. When I was a kid (17ish) and my friends and I had these cars we all pulled the air pumps and cats. We thought we were so cool getting all the hp that the emissions robbed. We even flipped the air filter lids and then opened up the scoops on our lg4 TAs. Never got check engine lights but also probably lost power also!!!! It was all so stupid!! That said, it makes sense w the tpi/tbi cars needing chip changes.

 

I guess. I pulled the air pump off the Kart (L98), made a dual exhaust w/no cats, did "free mods" to it and made 241 RWHP/342 RWTQ. So, IDK about needing, tune changes for that.

Decades ago, I was like you; on my CFI car I pulled smog, cat, added timing, removed the clutch fan, 160 T-stat..Edelbrock "headers" and Y, and went 14.5/95 at the track, which takes what? 220-230 hp? And yeah....I thought I was "so cool" too, with all my sick-bastard mods! But my car did alright with those dorky changes.

IDK...I don't think that I was missing a lot w/o the "No air pump tune".

 

It won't affect max power for two reasons...

1.) You're not running in closed loop during WOT (Power Enrich).

2.) The AIR system diverts out to the atmosphere when in PE.

You may not notice it in non-PE operation either since my guess the ECM would be able to trim the fuel to compensate.

So when I say "need" I guess it's coming from the perspective of optimization... the super correct way to disable the AIR system would be to disable the AIR system in the tune as well.

 

Yep. It comes down to the definition of the word, "Need".

Firechicken82 was talking about power loss from not-tuned mods (AIR removal), so I was sharing a couple examples where if there was a power loss...it was meaningless.

I agree that in closed loop, an ECM would trim fuel eventually and the end result would also be pretty meaningless. But mostly, doesn't the AIR inject before the cat in closed loop? (after the O2?)...or not at all, once warmed up (closed loop)?

 

I didn't mean to say all the stuff actually took it away or added it. To be honest I was more just commenting on any ridiculous "mods" made back in the day thinking it was gonna help when I was young. It's cool that you actually could dyno stuff.

we thought we were extra cool when we could get Cam2 race fuel. That combined w the flipped air filter lid really lifted the front end off the ground!!

To the OP, I'd pull it all and see how it works. If there are any issues you'll figure it out.

 

Yep, I picked up on that part and I totally appreciate that. I had a chuckle from what you wrote, and I definitely laughed at my own self, thinking about some of the dumb things I did back then for MOAR POWAH!!. For example, at one point, I got it stuck in my head that the closed hood (structure under the hood skin) partially blocked or impeded entrance into the single snorkel air duct on the '83 LG4. So, like a genius, I came up with a fool proof, BIG power-adding solution! I'd launch the car at the drag track, then about 20' out (out of sight/attention of the track workers) I'd pop the hood release thinking that the hood raising about 1" at the leading edge would definitely get more ram-air effect into that molded plastic air inlet. Oh yeah....not only could I feel that push me back in the seat, it was super safe, too!

 

that's pretty funny.

 

Didn't think this post would generate so much interest and information.

I ordered the idler pulley and will get the caps for now, I'll have the tubes welded after I remove the manifolds,they will get coated again after.

Tuning it now with the help of ULTM8Z so the smog will be deleted in the tune as well

Thanks for all the advise

 

I recieved the idler.
It has a 4.5 inch pully and the stock pump has a 6 inch pully.
Assuming I need to get a shorter belt.

 

Try it and find out.

 

The idler pulley was used on export cars that were destined for places that didn't require smog.
Looked but can't find the belt size for that application.

Hoping someone that has done this delete will chime in.

1990 5.7 TPI

 

Geezum, bub....in the time that's passed from your last post, ya could've already thrown the old belt on to see if it'd fit w/the new pulley. If it didn't....

Then, ya could've taken a string, or a nylon strap or some facsimile thereof and ran it around the belt routing, and measured it.
THEN, ya could've gone to an auto parts store and bought a belt that is "your measurement", long.
THEN, ya could've come home put it on,
And NOW, ya could've been driving your hi HP, no smog pump'n car around....right now.

 

Tom
Please refrain from responding to my posts in the future as your sarcasm is not appreciated.

 

Sorry that you couldn't absorb that with a smile. Bummer.

I made this:




Measured the required belt length by cutting and using the old belt, like this:




No one told me what size belt I needed. You can do it too, and I just told you how. You're welcome. You can take GOOD advice (learn to fish)?....or get butt hurt and keep waiting for someone to spoon-feed you a belt length that worked for them (Get fed fish)....your choice. Cheer up. .

 

Frankly I don't understand the snark either...

One of the main reasons these forums exist is because not everyone is an expert on everything. They're looking for assistance... whether it's the answer to the question or how to get to the answer themselves. They're not looking to get lectured about it.

Maybe its just me, but if I don't have a constructive answer to give to a technical question I'll generally just avoid responding altogether.

Any rate, just my $.02...

 

Guys.
1. It WAS constructive if you read what I wrote.
2. Sorry (literally), if it was undigestible. I thought it was *Different, *a little Funny, *interesting *Not blase' way of sharing another way to get the job done, and the time it would take to do it. I was adding some spice...some flair, and there is more than one way to take it.

Either way, it most certainly DID include a constructive answer (measure the belt path [here are a few ways to do that], go buy a belt, put it on). That was actually the crux of the post.

The Geezum part comes from a Mainer who I am a fan of...

 

T4C - It seems like a case of frustration meeting humor. I read your comments the way I think you intended, and caught on that there was useful direction there. BB73 apparently was in no mood for humor and wanted a direct answer, but as we know, there isn't always one of those since every installation varies once the bone stock configuration is altered. I understand that also, after getting so close and needing to iron out all the wrinkles in the details.

Incidentally, do you have a plan for the upper water outlet? That looks interestingly snug up there.

 

Thanks for the perspective, Vader.

If ^that^ is directed toward me and pic I posted, you're absolutely right; that water neck wouldn't work at all w/that set up. I did that years ago...2018ish? I used a L31 Vortec water neck and upper hose which ran the hose behind/around the back of the alternator. Like this.

 

Finally got some time to work on the car
The belt is the same size for the idler as the air pump.

 

Boom. Easy-peasy. ​​​​​​​