No Power, bogging at 2500 RPM
No Power, bogging at 2500 RPM
I just had my tranny rebuilt and when I went to pick it up the cart has no power. It almost feels like a tranny slip, but it has been rechecked. Sounds like a nasty vacuum leak, but none can be detected. Any ideas?
I' assume you have done a good tuneup and have checked for vacuum leaks, pluging off what you don't need for now until you diagnose the problem.
I had a similar problem, except it occurred at 3K for me. It can seem like a tranny problem because your car won't want to shift till it gets somewhere around or a little above 3K. You are probably just reaching that point where it is trying to shift but can't quite make it. The result, it feels like slippage because it's shifting in and out of gear.
Now the fix:
1) On mine, it was the catalytic converter. Hit it with a rubber mallet and listen for the rattle of loose chenks inside or just loosen the Y pipe from the manifolds to completely cut exhaust problems from the possible problems (loud though)
2) Some have had ing. module problems. Take it off and over to Autozone where they test it for free. Have them run the test 2-3 times as there is a false pass the first time because the module hasn't overheated yet. (Use dielectric greese when you put it back on.)
3) Check for a weak coil which will produce a light yellow spark if bad and a blue spark if good. No one seems to be able to test these coils but you can do a check with a multimeter. Id tell you how but I don't have my chiltons in front of me. Chances are, good spark = good coil.
4) Someone with a MAF sensor had one go bad on him. With the car idling, lightly tap the MAF sensor with a screwdriver or ratchet. If the car stumbles or dies then replace the sensor.
5) Fuel filter
6) Fuel pump, might be getting weak. You can do pressure and flow tests.
Do a good diagnosis first. It is way to easy to spend money on trial or false fixes.
good luck,
jess
I had a similar problem, except it occurred at 3K for me. It can seem like a tranny problem because your car won't want to shift till it gets somewhere around or a little above 3K. You are probably just reaching that point where it is trying to shift but can't quite make it. The result, it feels like slippage because it's shifting in and out of gear.
Now the fix:
1) On mine, it was the catalytic converter. Hit it with a rubber mallet and listen for the rattle of loose chenks inside or just loosen the Y pipe from the manifolds to completely cut exhaust problems from the possible problems (loud though)
2) Some have had ing. module problems. Take it off and over to Autozone where they test it for free. Have them run the test 2-3 times as there is a false pass the first time because the module hasn't overheated yet. (Use dielectric greese when you put it back on.)
3) Check for a weak coil which will produce a light yellow spark if bad and a blue spark if good. No one seems to be able to test these coils but you can do a check with a multimeter. Id tell you how but I don't have my chiltons in front of me. Chances are, good spark = good coil.
4) Someone with a MAF sensor had one go bad on him. With the car idling, lightly tap the MAF sensor with a screwdriver or ratchet. If the car stumbles or dies then replace the sensor.
5) Fuel filter
6) Fuel pump, might be getting weak. You can do pressure and flow tests.
Do a good diagnosis first. It is way to easy to spend money on trial or false fixes.
good luck,
jess
No Power
I was considering the Cat but I do have exhaust flow. Pretty good pressure actually. I did the tune up and run GREAT at idle. I went w/ Blue Streak cap & rotor, Standard Ign wires with Bosch +4 Plugs. If it's ignition related I'm going to guess Control Module or weak coil. I will take down exhaust also, to test. Thank you for your time and input!
I thought I had good flow too. Turns out I had a loose piece that would move around and really only restrict exhaust flow at higher rpms. It ran fine below 2500. Just hit it with your hand a couple of times and listen for a rattle. It's a free check. I kept looking at other systems first because I thought I had good flow. I can't tell you how much aggrevation it caused me. Don't dismiss it because you think it's fine. Check it.
Sorry about the ranting, but if I'm right you'll thank me.
Jess
Sorry about the ranting, but if I'm right you'll thank me.
Jess
I'll check it tonight by dropping the exhaust at the manifold. That way there can be no doubts. I need an intermediate pipe soon anyway so, if that's it, I was going to have to go down that road soon enough anyway. Thanks again. I'll let you know how I make out!
my cat is all beat up with dents in it and lately my car has been acting funny like it looses power at alittle higher RPMs so im gonna do away with the cat as soon as i get my headers on. then ill have a completly new exhaust and i wont have to worry about that being a problem anymore
TBI - thanks for your input. I dropped the exhaust and it runs fine now! Neww cat here we come. Now, what to use??? By the wayh love WV. Very pretty, I go down for new & Gauley seasons! Killer rafting!!
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Wow, that was a pretty fast night. Glad you found your problem. When I replaced mine, I got a direct fit from Autozone for $68. It works fine but it may end up being a restriction in my exhaust flow when I start making mods. If you can get away with it, run a straight pipe there and swap in a cat at emissions time. Or better yet, just gut the cat; Some like the sound, some don't. What ever the case, if you plan to make upgrades soon, make sure you don't have any restrictions so you don't have to buy the same parts twice.
PS. It might be a good idea to change your O2 sensor if you havn't already. A bad sensor can cause cats to fail by dumping too much fuel and burning up the cat.
Jess
PS. It might be a good idea to change your O2 sensor if you havn't already. A bad sensor can cause cats to fail by dumping too much fuel and burning up the cat.
Jess
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