well ever since i changed the front brake calipers the other day, i have had some problems getting the key to turn in the ignition. and it gets worse every day. it started out that i put the key in, and it would turn to the on position and the radio and stuff would come on, but i couldn't get it to the START position. so i would have to push in or pull out the key some and try turning it again, and it would finally turn all the way. but now im sitting there for 1-2 min trying different positions to get the key to actualy turn. i have tried a spare key that i had and it didn't help any. but one thing that does seem to be helping a little, is tilting the wheel all the way UP. and i can seem to get it started better.

i have also tried putting it in neutral thinking that may have something to do with it, since about 2-3 weeks before i started having problems i would notice that i would put it in park, and it would be fine, key came out fine and everything, but a couple times i went to start it and the started was grinding, you know that noise it makes.

so i don't know if its the ignition that is screwing up or if its the shifter or what, i thought about spraying some graphite lube in there, but im worried about that screwing up VATS.. and clues??

oh. also, i talked to my uncle about the problems, and he said that it might have something to do with the shifter linkage not being in sync with whatever it should be in the steering column therefore causing the car to think its not in park and not letting it start...

what do i have to do??!?!?!?!?!

 

I had to change mine out 2 weeks ago., Hey i realy liked you page on ball joints. good luck let me now how you make out or if you need some help.

 

Yeah, mine is starting to do that too. I find that if I push in on the key with my thumb while pulling the tabs outwards with my index + ring finger while I turn the key, it helps.

It's probably not anything to do with the shifter. The key will still turn while you are in drive, it just won't engage the starter.

 

so what needs to probably be replaced? do i need a new lock cylinder and key? or can i just adjust something or what??

 

I think you jus need to replace the lock cylinder. I think it was 75 for the lock cylinder an 65 a key. Now thats with the vats system. Or you can replace it with a normal lock an jus bypass the vatt.

 

Breathe,

There is a solenoid in the lower part of the column near the ignition switch and headlight dimmer switch. It actuates a linkage to allow the lock cylinder to turn past the "ON" position to the "CRANK" position. If you have the ignition turned on an the engine off, you should be able to hear the solenoid clicking as you depress and release the lock button on the floor shift handle. The solenoid will energize when the button is released, adn deenergize when teh button is depressed. If you don't hear the solenoid, you may have an electrical problem in the console or steering column, or a failing solenoid. If you hear the clicking, the solenoid linkage may have a problem. If you study the diagram, you can see how the finger connected to the rack assembly interlocks with the shifter position lockout. The solenoid mechanism interlocks in the same manner.

 

ok, i hear the clicking noise. so what should i check on the solenoid linkage? or is there any way to check it?? im going to pull the wheel and probably replace the lock cylinder today and see if that does anything.. is there any way i can get my car started besides jumping the terminals on the starter solenoid???

thanks vader


edit: also does it matter about VATS when i get a new lock cylinder???

 

Breathe,

Remove the steering wheel and lock plate.

Remove the turn signal cancelling cam.

Remove the HAZARD signal button and turn signal lever screw.

Remove the turn signal switch.

Remove the lock cyninder buzzer contacts and lock cylinder pin/screw and slide the cylinder out of the column.

At this point, you may be able to test the lock cylinder with the key to make sure the cylinder will move far enough to start the engine. If the lock cylinder binds, the cam plates in the cylinder are probably damaged and you'll need a new cylinder. If the cylinder rotates freely past the point where the engine would crank, continue.

Using a large screwdriver in the recessed slot of the sector gear, try to turn the sector enough to start the engine. If there is any binding or interference, don't force the assembly or you'll risk breaking something even worse.

Carefully unplug the VATS connector on the lock cylinder and remove it completely. Remove the upper steering column trim cover screws and lift off the trim cover. You should expose the sector gear and rack assembly, along with parts of the starter interlock device. Inspect them closely for distortion or damage. If the assembly appears to be intact, remove the sector gear and rack, and try to start the engine by raising the actuator rod with a screwdriver or pliers. If the actuator rod cannot be moved far enough to start the engine, you'll have to remove the lower steering cloumn trim and lower the column from the dash to inspect the switch, interlock, and acuator rod. There is little left after it is that far apart, and any problems at that point should be readily apparent.

When you reassemble the column, it would be a good idea to lubricate all the mechanisms with a white lithium grease, such as Lubriplate. Lube the linkage rods and guide, sector and rack assembly, turn signal switch and cancelling cam, and any bearings you may have exposed. Be careful to route the wiring away from any moving parts as you reintall the devices.

Good luck, dude. Hope you get lucky and find it easily.

 

Autozone usually carries those tools for rental if you dont have one.

 

sweet deal.. thanks guys for the help, i finally got it all fixed and put back together this morning. its amazing how much better the new lock cylinder works, compared to how the old one did even before i went out..