Will I need new springs with this cam?
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 66
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From: Maui, Hawaii
Car: 1988 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7 TPI
Transmission: TH-350
Axle/Gears: 12bolt/4:10
If you going to change your cam you should put on aftermarket springs. Because the last thing you want is for the valves to float and ruin your engine.
I have a 1988 Iroc-Z, with the 350 tpi in it. I plan to race it and will be changing my springs soon, because over time your springs will get a little weaker and theirs a chance that the valve will float.
I have a 1988 Iroc-Z, with the 350 tpi in it. I plan to race it and will be changing my springs soon, because over time your springs will get a little weaker and theirs a chance that the valve will float.
That's not even CLOSE to the specs for an edelbrock RPM cam... It would have to be 230/240 duration at 0.050 and more lift.
For the cam the stock springs should be fine. I know they work fine up to .490 lift. I wouldn't worry about it.
For the cam the stock springs should be fine. I know they work fine up to .490 lift. I wouldn't worry about it.
OOPS, I guess I had more to drink last night than I thought I had
Anyway, Yes put in the springs recommended by the cam manufacturer, that way you will have proper spring pressure for that cam grind and material.
Stock valve springs aren't even truly adequate to control the stock valve train at elevated RPMs - like anything near the yellow-line. The situation is even worse with heavy, unnecessary components, like the exhaust valve rotators that Ede is talking about.
Stock springs will handle quite a bit of lift without binding, but also generate a lot of heat at elevated lifts (no pun intended) and don't have adequate pressure to keep the lifter on the lobe at higher RPMs. Even a slight bit of valve float may not cause valve/piston interference but can ruin valve train compliance and cost power at higher RPMs. As someone once put it - "Once the valves start to float, the party's over."
Of course, you are installing screwed rocker studs while you're at it, right?
Stock springs will handle quite a bit of lift without binding, but also generate a lot of heat at elevated lifts (no pun intended) and don't have adequate pressure to keep the lifter on the lobe at higher RPMs. Even a slight bit of valve float may not cause valve/piston interference but can ruin valve train compliance and cost power at higher RPMs. As someone once put it - "Once the valves start to float, the party's over."
Of course, you are installing screwed rocker studs while you're at it, right?
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Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 6,111
Likes: 53
From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1988 Firebird S/E
Engine: 406Ci Vortec SBC
Transmission: TH-350/3500stall
Axle/Gears: 7.5" Auburn 4.10 Posi-Traction
The stock springs will work with the cam you stated if they are
still within spec. Pressure should be 70# or more @1.7" installed height. Stock diameter replacement highperformance valve springs are not expensive I'd use K-motion K700's for this application. You can reuse the stock retainers and oil shields.
There are lots of better heads than those 882's. Performance will be only modest at best with them.
still within spec. Pressure should be 70# or more @1.7" installed height. Stock diameter replacement highperformance valve springs are not expensive I'd use K-motion K700's for this application. You can reuse the stock retainers and oil shields.
There are lots of better heads than those 882's. Performance will be only modest at best with them.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 745
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From: springfield,IL
Car: T/A / Grand Am
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: glide
Axle/Gears: 9" ford 5.67
Originally posted by Chris85TA
I got the 882's for free. The heads on it now are small valve heads. For $40 I'll get some edelbrock springs. These used springs have unknown mileage.
I got the 882's for free. The heads on it now are small valve heads. For $40 I'll get some edelbrock springs. These used springs have unknown mileage.
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