Not sure why the last post submitted right away when I couldnt type anything.

Well my friend just got his car its a 89 mustang notchback, bored 30 over with JE pistons a shaved crank, basically a solid bottom end. He's got mildly poter heads with the stock intake,e303 cam, msd 6al ignition, CAI, 3.55 gears, weak t-5 and cluctch with hooker headers and a 3" bbk h pipe with dynomax mufflers.

My car is a 84 T/A with a 383 stroker, with an edelbrock performer rpm manifold, soon to be AFR 210cc heads with a Lunati voodoo cam with 241*/249* @ .050 with .525/.546 lift, a holley 750 cfm carb, th700r4 with tci valvebody and shift kit, aluminum driveshaft with 3.73 gears with an eaton posi unit. My car also weights in at 3075 with driver, the new setup should get me in the high 400's for HP

Who do you guys think would win when we choose to line up in the spring? His car is staying the same as I listed.

 

His car could be quick. A decent bottem end, worked E7s, cam, (needs an intake or intake work) with all the bolt ons could definately be a 12 second car. Yours sounds like a better combo, but you never know what either car can do until it happens!

 

Mid to high 12's maybe? I'd think it should probably be somewhere near my car power-wise. At least...it should be.

 

How much power would the Trickflow top end kit give his car? He is thinking about it but not sure if he should just get that kit or mix and match parts.

 

It's worth about 350 at the crank. My old car with that kit went 12.70's @ 110 hitting the fuel shutoff for the last 200'

 

I beat my friend in his '72 camaro with a 383 in it a long time ago. When I still had stock heads and cam. Who knows. You have a beter combo than him, but can you get it to the ground?

 

Why would he be wasting his time with the stock intake? You can get a PP Typhoon or Cobra manifold for under $300 if you look around... The set-up in my old 1989 GT was very similar, but had the EFI Performer and I went 12.9@109...

 

I dont know if my combo is better or not but I am pretty sure my car also weights less. With driver I have it down to 3075lbs.

He bought the car that way, it's basically a strong bottom end. He wasnts to switch the manifold out.

 

good luck with the 10 bolt if you hook it. ford better thank god for the 9".

 

I know I hafta worry about the tranny handling my high rpm shifts and everything and I hope the 10 bolt lasts long enough for the summer then in with a new moser 12 bolt.

 

dude, 85firebird350, i must have replied to you in 3 or 4 different posts.. weird.. but anyway, from the looks of your combo, you should beat him.. if your CR is over 10:1, you will get him.. i have run a best of 12.4 @110 with a setup similar to yours.. but you have the AFR's, probably a better cam for the CR and setup, lighter car, and an auto.. you should be around or faster than my numbers..

 

The 210cc AFR's should be on my car in a few weeks pending if I get my timing issues fixed. The cam is a healthy lunati voodoo cam with 241/249* @.050 with .525/.546 lift.

 

I have to say 3075lbs with driver is hard to believe did you get it weighed with you in it ? Because there is no way your lighter than a 89 stang NOTCHBACK! Your car would have to be completely stripped.

As far as the race goes if you blow your launch and if he can drive he could beat you. I don't think you would have a problem with him power wise.

 

Yes I have had my car weighed but that was prior to the 6pt cage I'm going to put in so I should probably add about 70 lbs to that. And yes my interior is completely gutted.

 

I've seen dyno results from some guy on the web showing a stock explorer GT40 out performing all the aftermarket intakes up to 5500rpms by over 10hp. The test engine was a cammed 302 with afr heads. Once he ported the bottom end of the gt40 it made more power up to 6200rpm. The point he was trying to make was the aftermarket intakes are better for more radical engines. For the street the Gt40 was a better choice, I'm really don't know I'm not a ford guy but it was interesting.

 

you should have it, especially if hes still using the crappy E7TE heads

 

I'm still using those crappy E7 heads and a very similar cam...except my heads aren't ported

 

I have crappy E7s, unported with some valves, a stock cam, stock bottem end, and stock suspension and run mid 12s all day and night. They suck compared to a good aftermarket job, but in a fox will run good times with the right support!

 

So you ran 12.37 with or without nitrous? Exactly what is your combo?

 

Off the bottle. Pretty simple combo. Untouched E7's, untouched 185k mile shortblock, erson .500" lift hr cam, edlebrock intake, AED carb, scummit brand long tubes, flowtech H pipe, homemade catback. Have a T5 that loves to grind, blah. stock clutch w/adustable cable. 4 cyl rear w/3.73's...only mod there is the spyder gears have been welded together to lock the rear. Still have the stock 4 cylinder front and rear suspension. Running on a set of 275/50/15 mt et radials. Shifting at 6200, crossing the traps at 6400ish in 3rd gear (I need more gear! lol!). It's basically some "junk" I threw together to have something to drive while I built my P/S motor and much to my suprise, it worked.

Shooting for 11's on motor this year. Have an electric water pump going in, 8.8 w/4.56's, going to run on a 28" drag radial, going to toy with a relay and WOT switch to shut the alternator off at WOT (have a 200 amp alternator in it, imagine that must be dragging the motor down a bit) and finally going to spring for the UPR rear suspension I've had my eyes on. I think if I can get the 60' down into the low 1.60's it'll get me to where I want to be. I guess we'll see what happens.

 

Wow I had no idea they were capable of those times with just those mods. What rpm do you launch at? Is it hard to drive on the street with the gears welded? My nova has its gears welded but I've yet to drive it anywhere but the track.

 

Depends on the track. Usually anywhere from 3k - 5k. I can't believe the rear has lasted as long as it has. The 8.8 I have for the car has 31 spline moser axles to help eliminate that fear. Drives fine on the street, I'd drive it every day if it weren't for my Explorer. On a tight turn in a parking lot, the tires will hop a little, but other than that it's no big deal. I actually drove it every day for abotu 2 weeks straight last spring with a set of quicktime pro's on it.

 

you should be able to beat him but he will probobly take you for the first few feet .

 

your running a 4 banger rear? what kind of diff?

the E7s flow good for their time period, unfortuantely they get put up by fords 3.8 splitport heads for modern day

 

Stock. It was a factory automatic car, so it's got 3.73's in it. Only thing I've done to that diff. was weld the spyder gears. Got to love the lincoln locker

 

lol, been there done that. Sometimes it works better than most realize. How about a minispool?

 

Too bad he has a 8.8 rear.

 

Ha, nah, I've got a 31 spline truck differential in the 8.8 with everything ready to go in, just not very motivated by this cold weather!

 

HA I welded my spider gears in my Nova it really does work!
Yeah cold weather shuts me down everytime too I have a new 383 to put in my car but it ain't gonna happen til it gets warmer.

 

how streetable is it with the rear welded? i had a posi put in but it slips sometimes and doesnt engage. any way i could somehow weld it or would i have to go back to an open diff

 

I drive the car on a regular basis. Have been to va beach and back (90 miles) with it. I've driven it from Richmond to MIR a couple times. I live about 35 minutes from the track I go to and don't own a trailer, so it gets driven there and back every time I go. I live in the middle of nowhere (ask Jamie aka "skifur-something or another"...he lives right behind me!) and work about 25 minutes from my house. I drive it to work on occassion. The one thing I avoid is rain, but that's more due to the drag radials than anything else. If you've got a posi (that's so weird to say when you're a ford guy) then why don't you just rebuild it and pack extra clutches in it? That'll go a long ways towards curing that one wheel peel problem.