When you swtiched over to the 650 cfm carb, what was the difference in peak rpm in 3rd for you? If the increase is greater than 500 rpm, then I just may go the route of a 670 TBI for my car since it is a quick bolt on mod for me.

 

I am not sure, to be perfectly honest. I will have to check it out. I am planning on getting a shift kit installed soon, so I would imagine it will change a bit. Right now I think my TV cable needs to be readjusted, but I will have the shop that is installing the kit to adjust everything. Since the carb has been running good, I have noticed that the car seems to be shifting a little quicker(could just be the TV cable not being adjusted properly?)If I figure it out, I will let you know.

 

Yeah that sounds like it needs to be adjusted. Prior to my latest adjusting I'd get early shifts at 2000 rpm for load applications and for WOT runs a shift as low as 3500. Getting into the right position I can consistently do 4200 rpm shifts which is where my engine peaks around. Just beware, adjusting that sucker is ranked 5 on my difficulty list just because it has to be tested to see if it feels ok to you and that the best way to get it WOT is by clamping the throttle linkage rather than having a person sit in it as the pedal is just a few mm from WOT for my car and that difference really didn't generate a shift I liked until I clamped the linkage down for true WOT.

 

The Holley 670cfm OEM unit ? I've done that before and it worked great I can't remember how many rpm is was good for but do remember that it was a great performance mod and I never regretted forking out for the unit. One thing I would get the 70lb injectors and not 80s unless you were planning on a 350 anytime soon. Everything bolted in without a hitch.

Oh yeah the throttle bores on the 670 are much larger than the stock TBI inlet bores which makes the stock manifold an even greater choke point. I used the 670 with a single plane manifold from Weiand and had an adaptor made to center it. The L03 really responded well to these mods.

RP.

 

If I'm gonna swap manifold, I may as well do cam at the same time, but I don't got a budget for that this year... heck the new tires (well worth it I may add) chunked into my budget a lot...

 

I did the Holley unit first, drove it for about 6 months then did the manifold. Took it in stages. Each piece I could definitely see an improvement. Together they were a great combo.

The cam swap is a very big job and the 670 + manifold will be alot of coin already -- do you have 1.6s in yet ? That is more low hanging fruit that you can grab at.

A decent roller and chain will cost about $500 CDN ? I dunno that is alot of coin but you will enjoy the diff if you can afford it ? I put a 217/225 .480/.505 cam and HD springs in after doing the manifold, Holley and rockers.

I think it all gets down to how much you can spend in one shot ?

RP.

 

Save for pulleys and after the y pipe, pure LO3 engine with a bit of polishing on the heads. Very decent motor and very very dependable. (Can you trust your engine not to break on you for 10000 km fully packed with as much an f-body can carry in personal belongings and burning oil via o-rings?) I gambled on it and it did it twice in a span of 4 months! As a reward to her I blueprinted her with polished heads and got her re-ringed.

 

Save for pulleys and after the y pipe, pure LO3 engine with a bit of polishing on the heads. Very decent motor and very very dependable. (Can you trust your engine not to break on you for 10000 km fully packed with as much an f-body can carry in personal belongings and burning oil via o-rings?) I gambled on it and it did it twice in a span of 4 months! As a reward to her I blueprinted her with polished heads and got her re-ringed. Since she's now up to the task, she eargerly awaits upgrades I can't afford waiting to unleash all that restricted power she has...

Sounds pretty melodramatic for a 305 huh?

 

I am not sure if I got this right but I was trying to watch when it shifted( pretty hard when it is sunny out and I have the digital dash that looks washed out). It shifted into second at about 2,500rpm and then again into third at about 3,500-3,700 rpm. Does that sound right?
Sometimes it will shift a little erratic at low speeds. I am hoping that the Transgo shift kit with the corvette servo will solve that problem. I still think that when the new carb was put on, that the TV cable wasn't adjusted properly. It could also be the accelerator pump. It might need to be adjusted.

 

Forgot about that digital dash. It sounds like it needs some TV cable adjustment. As I recall your peak was around 4500 RPM so shifts at WOT should occur there. I'm asking for a hard run here, so do it if you got the time make sure there's a)there's no cop in sight b)you're on a road that's at least 80 km/h speed limit and fairly empty and as flat as possible c) watching 2nd to 3rd shift and 3rd max (that's anywhere from 85 to 95 mph depending on your setup) I don't want you to risk anything just to get a rpm number. Thanks for all input!

 

Governor determines the shift at WOT not the TV cable..

Daz