just wondering what steps you guys take for winter storage?.....i know what i have done in the past was wrong, cause i did nothing....parked it and took the battery out...i figure why put it on stands when cars are meant to be on the ground....anyways if you have some time i would appreciate it...

thanks in advance
Kevin

 

If you put your car on stands this year, make sure you put the stands under the axle and front control arms, this will keep the shocks/struts from being fully extended all winter which causes faliure.

 

Look at the Tech Section on my website. I've got a document on there for winter storage. It outlines what I've been doing for the past four years without any troubles.

And as far as jack stands go, it's a waste of time. Like Nathan said, unless the suspension is supported than you risk having problems.

 

Hey NB why would leeaving a shock or strut extended cause failure?

 

thanks irocker thats very informative.....some winters i have had no choice but to store it outdoors...i have a good car cover but i noticed when we got warm weather the snow/ice would melt and penetrate through the cover, now would it be bad if i placed one of those blue tarps ontop of the cover?....i don't know if that would defeat the purpose of it being "breathable".

 

TO be honest, I would rather have my car dry than have the cover "breathing". If it's soaked and covered in snow it's not really breathing anyway. If you have no choice but to store it outside, then I might even suggest you invest in an extra tarp to wrap it from the bottom and prevent snow from forming underneath the car...kinda a poor man's bubble storage thingie.

6speed: The reason why it can wreck the struts is because with the suspension hanging down in an unnatural position, the part of the strut (chrome rod) that is normally inside is now exposed. Therefore it is suseptible to corrosion and thus leaks. One of the reasons why when you buy struts/shocks brand new they always come compressed out of the box.

 

I do agree that it will expose more rod, but half of it is normally exposed during regular useage. I would have to say that exposure should be of very little concern. I'd hang the suspension if you are concerned about the springs sagging. I've done this to mine every year for the past 8, and the rear original Bilstiens are still perfect. I tested them myself on a shock dyno...they still have full gas charge and perfectly matched forces after 210 000 Kms and 16 years.

 

I seem to remember seeing pics of flyinlo's rides with the shocks extended in storage.... I wonder if he had any problems like this. I guess it's a trade off between killing you're springs or killing your shocks.

 

6speed: You're not the only one...many people do it every year and have no troubles at all. In my opinion, it's just unneccessary work. I park with the tires inflated to the max 44 psi and with several layers of cardboard under each tire and I've never had flat spotting problems. So to me that's the most I need to do to feel comfortable. To each their own I guess.

 

Put it in a heated garage, turn up the heat and come back in spring time. Well thats about what I do.

RP.

 

I just pull the battery out, cover the exhaust so no critters can climb in, put a car cover over it and say goodbye to it for the winter. Getting it oil sprayed is also a good thing to do too. As far as flat spots my tires always need to be replaced anyways so I just burn off whats left of them then park it so in the spring I just replace the tires.

 

If you let the suspension hang to long the car becomes a 4x4 the reason you put a car up in the air is to prevent the tires for cracking, not to save the suspension. This is why Natahn said to put the stand under the axles and control arms. As for the cover, not a big deal really unless salt flies around your car that is. If you are unable to start the car often...which you should do to allow the fluids to move around. But if you cant' then put a bit of oil in each cylinder to prevent siezing, check you coolant range so that it doesn't freeze up on you ( very bad if it freezes ) And last but not least don't store it with a half tank of gas. Either fill it right up or empty it completely to avoid moisture build up. Hope this helps you. My car sat for 4 years, in a garage. But... she started up no problem and everything was good for the most part. Happy winter storage to all, and to all F bodys..and G bodys a good night.

 

hey Kaz.....about putting the oil in each cylinder...how much oil we talking?...few drops?....

 

The oil in each cylinder is only needed if you plan on storing it for an extended period of time, like Kaz mentioned...4 years. For just 5-6 months of winter it's not really required. If it makes you feel more comfortable than go for it.

And very important about the full or empty tank...never store it with anything else. Plus add some fuel stabilizer as well.

As far as starting the car during storage...unless you can take it out of the garage for a trip around the block, it will do more damage to start it up and let it idle then it will not starting it for the whole winter. The first year I stored my car I went out every three weeks and started it up for 15-20 minutes and let it idle. In the spring, both my cat and intermediate pipe had rotted out. Just letting it idle like that builds up moisture and because the car doesn't get to blow that moisture out of the exhaust properly, it sits in the pipes and corrodes. The last two years I've left the car the whole winter without starting it at all and have had no troubles starting it in the spring....and three year old exhaust is still intact.

 

For the most part this is true. But you are suppose to sit in the car rev it up some and get the fluids movin. Don't just let it idle, or yes you can cause more damage. If you are not going to be starting it. then yes put some oil in the cylinders. A few drops will do and just bump the car over with the coil wire off. this will let the oil surrond the cylinder.

 

Personally, I would spring for indoor storage if you plan on keeping your car for a long time. But if your doing it outside definately drive it onto a big tarp and wrap it up if you love your undercarriage. It will stop moisture from going up into your undercarriage. I know I know water is frozen in the winter but hot winter days, fall, and spring there will always be a big puddle under there. And common sense says water evapourates UP into the sky . I wouldnt worry about the oil in the cylinders, it cant hurt, but if you got plugs in there dont worry about it. Thats my take on the storage deal.
greg

 

When it was stored in an unheated garage I used to put it on stands (axle & a-arms) and take the wheels inside. Also smeared a bit of WD40 on the sides of the roters and sprayed it down into the cooling slots as well. Then covered each brake assembly with a garbage bag. Still have the origianl roters after 20 years and 100K miles but they are shot now. Obviously you have to clean the WD40 with alcohol so it doesn't get into the pads before you move the car again.

Also change oil and lube it as well as fill the gas tank.

Flush and fill the rad. Maybe spray silicone on the rubber door seals etc.

There's a lot of stuff you can do and I've seen some posts that list just about everything.

I have one of those breathable covers - I don't think I'd want to leave the car outside all winter with just that on it.

Lastly, oil spraying the underside has worked really good for my car over the years when it was a daily driver.