alright after I swapped the lo3 to a l98 355 for some reason the starter is not getting a full 12 volts, check engine light stays on at all times, no codes, and only cranks at about 1/4 speed. After cranking for about half a second all power to starter shuts down. Checked all wiring on the 91 z28 harnes and everything looks good. I used a 91 z computer and oh yeah I disconnected my alarm and after checking all wiring everything is like it should be but I only get 4.6 volts to starter. Anyone know what I might be missing, below is a list of the crap I have done.....(three different mechanics/electrical genius's have looked at the car and no one knows what is wrong...a $100 money order will be sent to the first person who can help me how fix my problems) FYI I started the car 2 weeks ago and it ran fine for 45 minutes but now it won't start and nothing has changed........And yes pictures of you engine compartment will help.

1991 camaro rs
originally 305 tbi
now tpi 350 bored .30 over
comp cam
91 z28 harness and computer
disconnected audiovox alarm
145 speedo
and everything else in signature

 

buy a new battery

 

it's a brand new battery with a full charge but it still didn't help. anyone else?

 

See the strange thing is, the starter gets its power directly from the battery. Its always hot (electrically) so that shouldnt be a problem. There are 3 wires that will hook up to the main power on the starter. Pull those wires off, and test them to see how much power is getting to them. The one that runs directly from the battery should be about 13-15 volts. If your getting power there, then Im gonna have to say that your starter, or possibly starter selonoid is shot. Just because its new (if its new), doesent mean its good. Ive had 2 bad ones right off the shelf.
Hope this helps!

 

I believe you have bad connections at the battery or a bad ground on the block. Have you done a voltage drop test while your cranking to determine where your problem is? I will make an assumption that your battery is good?? To do a voltage drop test take your volt meter and connect one end to the battery positive post and the other to the solinoid (spelling error?) input post. Crank the engine and see what the voltage reading is. If it is more then 2 volts you have a bad positive starter cable. If the reading is ok do the same test to the ground cable. Connect the volt meter to the ground terminal on the battery and a good ground on the engine and then crank. If the reading is greater then two volts you have a bad ground circuit. If all the cables and ground connections check out test the starter motor to block connection with the same procedure. What you are looking for is a reading of more then two volts during cranking. A high reading will indicate that the connection you are testing is poor and instead of the power flowing through the connection correctly, it is flowing through the path of least resistance which is the volt meter. If your testing shows no poor circuits in the starting system and you are getting 12 volts at the solinoid I would assume you have a bad starter that is either not providing the correct starting torque or is shorted to ground and causing a very high amp draw that is not allowing you to start. You mentioned that you were only getting 4.6 volts in the system, how and where were you getting this reading. That answer could provide valuable answers to your problem?

 

ws

I thought that to and bench tested the starter. It crancked up exactly like it supposed to so the only thing I can think of is somewhere the wiring is screwed but everyone that has looked at it including me can't figure it out.

bj the 4.6 volts was on one of the wires going to the starter but i don't remember which one during cranking. the positive battery cable is a good twelve and the fusible links are also 12. under the steering wheel there is a yellow wire that is also only getting 4.6 volts and this wire hooks up to the one of the bolts in the starter somewhere but forgot where possible the small purple one????

 

I Would say replace the starter, if its new then get a free replacement. I'm pretty sure thats your problem. I just dropped 2 new ones in my camaro. Bad off the shelf. They worked for a while then got weak and weaker until they did nothing. I'm going through the same crap again with my 87 cutlass, new starter didnt last a day. Gotta remove the header to get the damn thing out . Anyway my cutlass and camaro did the same thing as you described, hope that helps. P.S. Both of my starters on the camaro passed the bench test, but when installed them back on the car it ws the same crap over again. .

 

I still say it's a ground problem. Add a ground strap and/or move the negative battery cable to a bolt on the block to find out.

 

Electrical components function differently when loaded (turning engine over) and unloaded (bench test). It sounds like a bad starter to me.
Rule of thumb..........never buy a discount store starter, alternator, or battery. All are usually junk and tend to wear the other electrical parts out. Junks starters are very hard on batteries.

J

Edit: That is assuming you have installed the original body to engine ground strap on the back of the engine.

 

Its A Bad Starter. I had a bad starter and after testing it I found out it was drawing over 500 amps when cranking. At first I thought my battery was dying but it was good. Also, change the Battery Cables because even though they may be new if they received a lot of resistance while cranking they probably got very hot internally and electricity won't flow through them anymore. You can't tell just by looking at the cables if they're good or not. Just replace the Cables and the Starter and you'll be on the road again.

 

agreed, its more than likely you missed a ground during the swap.

 

When you did your engine swap: What shape was the wiring harness in (behind the engine)? It is possible that if the wires are loose, and not wrapped or in plastic conduit, that you pinched a wire between the transmission housing and engine block. Also, did you connect the wiring harness grounds to the studs on the back of the heads (there is one on each side)?

 

Too bad I don't take money orders....

 

I thought that to and bench tested the starter. It crancked up exactly like it supposed to so the only thing I can think of is somewhere the wiring is screwed but everyone that has looked at it including me can't figure it out.

bj the 4.6 volts was on one of the wires going to the starter but i don't remember which one during cranking. the positive battery cable is a good twelve and the fusible links are also 12. under the steering wheel there is a yellow wire that is also only getting 4.6 volts and this wire hooks up to the one of the bolts in the starter somewhere but forgot where possible the small purple one????

Sound from what you are describing that you should take a look at the ignition switch. My guess is that the contacts and or wiring from the switch to the starter has been damaged and is preventing the starter from properly actuating

HTH

John

 

Low voltage at the solenoid and a starter that turns slowly(or not at all) usually indicates a problem within the solenoid. Most likely burnt contacts. You can confirm the problem is/is not with the starter assy by connecting a jumper from the battery positive to the 'S' terminal on the starter. Crank the engine as usual. If the problem persists, the problem is within the starter assy:
-low voltage(<9V), turns slowly = solenoid
- hi voltage(>9V), turns slowly = starter motor

If the engine cranks normally with the jumper cable connected, the fault will be between the ignition switch and the starter.

If you want to check the condition of the wiring, you need to do a resistance check on the wires. A voltage check will only tell you how much voltage is being carried, not how much can be carried by that wire. Even a 22 ga. speaker wire can carry 12 volts(with minimal current). Put a meter lead at both ends of the wire you are testing. If you get more than minimal resistance(>5 ohms) the wire is likely defective. When the wire breaks down, from heat or age, the resistance increases.

 

I get to mess with the car in the am and should have some updates as to what the deal is. I am almost convinced bad ground somewhere too. I have thought this for a few weeks but I just wanted to blame the alarm and not my own work I think the wires are ok since they have worked great until now. I am going to post some pics here in the next few days so you guys can see what I am seeing. Maybe if it is something I am missing someone could point it out. I am hoping to get it running again by sunday and declare a winner of the lotto.

 

From a totally inexperienced guys perspective.....

Whats the compression....would an engine with a higher comperession need a stronger amperage battery....

Just a thought.

Rick

 

I am speaking for myself here.....keep your money. I believe this board is about helping people out, not making a few bucks off them. Just my opinion.
J

 

Definatley... I would hope that noone here would acually accept any money for helpin someone out. Its a damn good attention getter though!