I just took out my 88 IROC 350 TPI out of storage after sitting for about a year... after replacing the cat back exhaust, a radiator, and a few other odd's and ends... it seems to run pretty well...

2 problems...

1. when it's started after sitting for more than a few hours... it tries to idle at around 600 rpms.... and sometimes stalls out... but once it gets going... it's fine... i haven't played with the idle yet... as it does idle fine... just not from a cold start... it also usually needs to be gassed to start without stalling... anyone have any nifty ideas before i go and screw with it?

2. after i'm on the highway for about 10 minutes... i get the wonderful 'service engine soon' light... it's a code 32... which i think is the egr valve or a vacuum leak?? now.. as i'm new to the tpi deal... (had a 305 tbi for 5 years) ... i'm not sure the easiest route to take here... any good ideas to start off with on this one? or common problems/solutions?

any help would be appreciated

 

First check all cables/vacuum lines for your egr

Then I recommend trying to clean your EGR and your IAC (for the two seperate problems) from there set your TPS and your IAC, and you should be good to go.

32. Fault in barometric pressure sensor circuit OR
Fault in exhaust gas recirculation valve diagnostic switch OR
Fault in electronic vacuum regulator valve

 

Fault in exhaust gas recirculation valve diagnostic switch OR


For this problem look at the single wire coming off the front of the EGR valve, it may be broken or you may need to unscrew it from the diag switch and clean it up.

~M~

 

Welcome aboard by the way

 

Could the EGR be bad and NOT set a code? My car has been idling rough for a while, but only stalled once while stopped at a light....Mine idles ok sometimes, but wants to idle all over the place every once in a while. I cleaned the IAC and passages, and did all the adjustments(tps and minimum air). I dont get any codes but was wondering if the egr could be the cause? Any help would be appreciated.

 

Yes, the only code you get for EGR is when the ECM has requested EGR and the diagnostic switch doesn't send the signal back saying that EGR is open.
If the EGR is stuck open you won't get a code, but you will get horrible idle and stalling.

~M~

 

Is there a way to check the EGR without taking the plenum off? How do you know if its stuck open? will it idle REALLY bad? I forgot to mention, my car doesnt cut out or feel like its lost power, its just the idle sucks. My dad seems to think it could be a lobe worn down on the cam.......?

 

To check the EGR you'll need a vacuum pump (like the mityvac) and a mirror. Disconnect the vacuum line to the EGR valve and position the mirror so you can see the underside of the valve. Apply vacuum to the EGR and see if the EGR retracts. That simple.

~M~

 

well.. everybody knows a free solution is always better... turns out the vacuum lines weren't plugged in all the way.. so the code 32 seems to be taken care of...

it still starts rough.. and usually needs to be gassed to keep from stalling when first started... and that's with the idle turned up... isn't there some sort of cold start injector? or is there any other places to look when it doens't like to idle when it's cold?

thanks for all the help