PLEASE HELP! car wont turn over when it's warm (after a drive)
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 532
Likes: 0
From: Tennessee
Car: '89 RS
Engine: 9C1 w/ TPI
Transmission: rebuilt 700R4
PLEASE HELP! car wont turn over when it's warm (after a drive)
This is an '89 RS w/ a 350 and an '88 TPI setup. I'll start the car....drive somewhere, and when I go to start the car back up, nothing happens. Sometimes the starter clicks, but most the time it does nothing...when i turn the key, I get power, and the gauges go up, but engine does not turn over. If I let it sit a few hours, it'll start. But if i dont drive anywhere, I car start it and restart it all day...no problems...it's just after I drive and it warms up. The starter and battery are new, alternator is less than a year old, all have been tested and are fine. All wires and fusible links "look" fine. This may help...the day it happened, I put on the new starter, drove an hour and a half somewhere, cut it off, and it wouldn't restart. I took a look under the hood and noticed that the pos. battery cable had burned through to the wires on the headers...i assumed it did that on my drive because I'd never noticed it before. This why I think the fusible links may be at fault....at least i hope that's it and not the ignition switch. Fusible links and ignition switch are the only 2 things I can think of. Please help guys. Gimme any ideas, and tell me how to check for possibilities. thanks a lot
If it is the igniton switch....my car is an '89 so it has vats...my key has a chip in it. Well the TPI setup and computer is an '88 so it's it doesn't have VATS. So if I have to replace the ignition switch, do I have to get one set up w/ vats (yellow wire, chip in key), or can I get a regular igniton switch? thanks.
If it is the igniton switch....my car is an '89 so it has vats...my key has a chip in it. Well the TPI setup and computer is an '88 so it's it doesn't have VATS. So if I have to replace the ignition switch, do I have to get one set up w/ vats (yellow wire, chip in key), or can I get a regular igniton switch? thanks.
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 3,197
Likes: 10
From: Manassas VA
Car: 04 GTO
Engine: LS1
Transmission: M12 T56
You say the battery is new, how new? Replaced before or after this problem started? Same with teh starter, a little confused on how you put it, you say the day it happened, youput on the starter and then it wouldn;t restart after a drive.
Basically, if the problem started after you put either of those in, i would suspect it. What you're describing could be either the starter/solenoid or the battery deciding to flake under heat. I don't care if it's new, and there is no real good way to 'test' either. If one part is older than the problem, i would suspect it, even if it was a day old when it started, because bad parts come out of boxes all the time, and assuming they are good cuz they are new just leads you in circles.
Also, did you replace the burnt positive cable? It could be damaged, and could have been touching that header slightly hurting it over time. The resistance of metal increases with temperature and thus it could be acting up when hot.
Basically, if the problem started after you put either of those in, i would suspect it. What you're describing could be either the starter/solenoid or the battery deciding to flake under heat. I don't care if it's new, and there is no real good way to 'test' either. If one part is older than the problem, i would suspect it, even if it was a day old when it started, because bad parts come out of boxes all the time, and assuming they are good cuz they are new just leads you in circles.
Also, did you replace the burnt positive cable? It could be damaged, and could have been touching that header slightly hurting it over time. The resistance of metal increases with temperature and thus it could be acting up when hot.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 532
Likes: 0
From: Tennessee
Car: '89 RS
Engine: 9C1 w/ TPI
Transmission: rebuilt 700R4
Originally posted by Ed Maher
You say the battery is new, how new? Replaced before or after this problem started? Same with teh starter, a little confused on how you put it, you say the day it happened, youput on the starter and then it wouldn;t restart after a drive.
Basically, if the problem started after you put either of those in, i would suspect it. What you're describing could be either the starter/solenoid or the battery deciding to flake under heat. I don't care if it's new, and there is no real good way to 'test' either. If one part is older than the problem, i would suspect it, even if it was a day old when it started, because bad parts come out of boxes all the time, and assuming they are good cuz they are new just leads you in circles.
Also, did you replace the burnt positive cable? It could be damaged, and could have been touching that header slightly hurting it over time. The resistance of metal increases with temperature and thus it could be acting up when hot.
You say the battery is new, how new? Replaced before or after this problem started? Same with teh starter, a little confused on how you put it, you say the day it happened, youput on the starter and then it wouldn;t restart after a drive.
Basically, if the problem started after you put either of those in, i would suspect it. What you're describing could be either the starter/solenoid or the battery deciding to flake under heat. I don't care if it's new, and there is no real good way to 'test' either. If one part is older than the problem, i would suspect it, even if it was a day old when it started, because bad parts come out of boxes all the time, and assuming they are good cuz they are new just leads you in circles.
Also, did you replace the burnt positive cable? It could be damaged, and could have been touching that header slightly hurting it over time. The resistance of metal increases with temperature and thus it could be acting up when hot.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 532
Likes: 0
From: Tennessee
Car: '89 RS
Engine: 9C1 w/ TPI
Transmission: rebuilt 700R4
Originally posted by Iroc87
Sounds like a heat soaked starter to me. Insulate the starter(heat shield) or hook up a Ford style solenoid, and that should solve the prob
Sounds like a heat soaked starter to me. Insulate the starter(heat shield) or hook up a Ford style solenoid, and that should solve the prob
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 532
Likes: 0
From: Tennessee
Car: '89 RS
Engine: 9C1 w/ TPI
Transmission: rebuilt 700R4
Well I put on the heat shield from jegs (flexible alumized one)....didnt work. I put it on, started the car, let it idle until it got to about 170*...shut it off....wouldn't start back up. I'm so disgusted w/ my car right now. I go back to college in 12 days and need to get this fixed. If anyone's got any ideas lay em on me....if i cant get this fixed, my car is going to the dealership (i've never had any car of mine in a shop). thanks guys.
Trending Topics
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 4,335
Likes: 4
From: Mays Landing NJ
Car: 2018 Camaro SS
Engine: LT1 w/Paxton 1500SL
Originally posted by REDZ28
My 91 350 did the same exact thing. The starter was getting heat soaked like the other guy said. I put the ford solenoid on it and it never did it again!! Do that or insulate your new starter!
My 91 350 did the same exact thing. The starter was getting heat soaked like the other guy said. I put the ford solenoid on it and it never did it again!! Do that or insulate your new starter!

with the heat from my headers i'd heat soak the stock solenoid in no time, it sucked
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
db057
TBI
10
Aug 11, 2015 10:11 PM





