I am having a spark knock problem when my engine is running over 200*. A mechanic told me that my MAF may be bad.

I ran my car on Datamaster for the first time this weekend and noticed that the gms/sec values for the MAF were between 7 at idle to 80 under acceleration. Is this normal? Where else should I be looking to solve my spark knock problem?

 

prom burning

 

So you are saying that the only way to get rid of this problem is to spend over $300 to buy my own equipment to burn my own chips and spend another year trying to figure out what the hell I am doing in hopes of solving a problem that started on its own. It wasn't a result of any changes that I made. I can't beleive that if the problem wasn't there before that it can't be fixed without brning a new chip. And I am not saying that PROM burning isn't wonderful, I'm sure it is, but when you are on a college student's budget then you try to find solutions to problems that are the least exspensive as posible. So now that I have said my peice, can anyone give any advise other than "PROM burning"

 

$300?

I dont know where the hell you shop

 

If you absolutely insist on making it work without prom tuning, take out your cam, I'll bet you it started after that cam was installed.

 

Try misting water into the engine, might have some carbon buildup in there.

PROM burning...

 

FYI, the problem didn't start after I installed the cam. I put many miles on this engine before this problem started. Like I said before, the problem didn't start as a result of an engine mod.

I love how certain people on this board try to make you feel inferior instead of trying to help.

 

If the show fits

 

show or shoe?

 

well, 7 at idle is fine, 80 is low under acceleration...

perhaps removing those screens did something, they ARE there for a reason, the MAF needs turbulence to calculate airflow, i never saw a point to risking a $200 sensor for a possible .00003 increase in HP at the wheels

just something to consider..try swapping in a known working MAF and see what happens..

 

Thats what i get for typing while watching pirated goldmember

 

sounds like the timing chain is streched

 

Yea, or maybe the balancer slipped and this actually started after a simple timing adjustment.

 

The timing chain has less than 25,000 miiles on it. Not to say that it couldn't stretch in that amount of time, but not likely.

How do I see if the damper slipped, and wouldn't that effect it all of the time and not just when it is hot?

 

Often PERFORMANCE CHIPS rely on using a cold thermostat for enrichment, so they can add timing. Running hot leans it back down again, and then you have too much timing.

Not ALL chips are this way and without redong your hard to tell exactly what they did.

Get the temp right and see how things read.
Reinstall the screens or reprogram the cal to accound for that.

With things right you should be approaching 200 gm/sec
tapping on the MAF if the engine falters the MAF maybe bad. Try test driving the car with the MAF unpluged, should run worse. If it runs better unplugged you have a MAF problem.

 

Yea, but engines have more of a tendency to detonate when hot, so if its only off a few degrees it could be doing it only when hot, and when its colder its rich enough and cool enough in the chamber to prevent detonation from happening. You can check it by taking out the #1 plug and using a zip tie or similar in the cylinder to find out when the piston is at the top (turn the crank by hand, long ratchet/breaker bar, appropriate socket... 5/8"?) and then see if the mark lines up with 0 on the balancer.

 

7 gms/sec? mine is reading 7750 gms/sec at idle, glad my new one will be in tomarrow