How do tell which pullies are underdrives?
How do tell which pullies are underdrives?
How can I identify the underdrive pullies on my 88 IROC's 5.0 TPI setup. They were on the car when I got it but I want to ditch them due to issues with the charge system and dim headlights. There are better ways to make HP for a street/strip daily driven car (IMO).
Looking at the pullies I can't see anything to distinguish them. If I knew the diameters or the stock pullies I could compare, but alas my Haynes manual does not contain this info. How can I tell which pullies are stock and which are underdrivers?
Hell, if someone wants 'em I may be willing to trade for a set of stockers that are in fine working order.
Thx!
Looking at the pullies I can't see anything to distinguish them. If I knew the diameters or the stock pullies I could compare, but alas my Haynes manual does not contain this info. How can I tell which pullies are stock and which are underdrivers?
Hell, if someone wants 'em I may be willing to trade for a set of stockers that are in fine working order.
Thx!
Last edited by RA080923; Aug 23, 2002 at 11:59 AM.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 532
Likes: 0
From: Tennessee
Car: '89 RS
Engine: 9C1 w/ TPI
Transmission: rebuilt 700R4
I'm not in a situation where I can get to my car to give you a measurement, but guessing, an underdrive pulley is only about 5-6 inches, while a stocker is about 8. As far as the waterpump pulley and alt. pulley, i dont have either on my car....i guess that why i've had no problems w/ cooling or charging. Oh, and the underdrive pulleys have a gloss finish...wipe them off and check out the finish...if their underdrives, they wont look like they've been on the car 13 years. Sorry I couldn't be more specific, but like I said, i cant get to my car right now....but i'm pretty sure those meaurements are close enough for you to determine. Wish I could have been more help.
Thx for the reply.
I figure I will try swapping out just the alternator pulley to stock and keep the other underdrives on.
What about upgrading to an alternator with a higher idle o/p. I'm not sure what the stock TPI 5.0 alt is rated for at idle.. less than 100 amps maybe? With headlights, radio, a/c etc all off, just 3 starts are enough to prevent the car from starting again. I don't have a re-programmed ECU prom yet, so the car is touchy at idle and easy to stall.
Besides the underdriven alt. pulley, would an aftermarket ignition setup (HEI coil, wires, new distributer etc) also contribute to draining the battery so quickly?
I figure I will try swapping out just the alternator pulley to stock and keep the other underdrives on.
What about upgrading to an alternator with a higher idle o/p. I'm not sure what the stock TPI 5.0 alt is rated for at idle.. less than 100 amps maybe? With headlights, radio, a/c etc all off, just 3 starts are enough to prevent the car from starting again. I don't have a re-programmed ECU prom yet, so the car is touchy at idle and easy to stall.
Besides the underdriven alt. pulley, would an aftermarket ignition setup (HEI coil, wires, new distributer etc) also contribute to draining the battery so quickly?
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 532
Likes: 0
From: Tennessee
Car: '89 RS
Engine: 9C1 w/ TPI
Transmission: rebuilt 700R4
Originally posted by Z28Marcus
Thx for the reply.
I figure I will try swapping out just the alternator pulley to stock and keep the other underdrives on.
What about upgrading to an alternator with a higher idle o/p. I'm not sure what the stock TPI 5.0 alt is rated for at idle.. less than 100 amps maybe? With headlights, radio, a/c etc all off, just 3 starts are enough to prevent the car from starting again. I don't have a re-programmed ECU prom yet, so the car is touchy at idle and easy to stall.
Besides the underdriven alt. pulley, would an aftermarket ignition setup (HEI coil, wires, new distributer etc) also contribute to draining the battery so quickly?
Thx for the reply.
I figure I will try swapping out just the alternator pulley to stock and keep the other underdrives on.
What about upgrading to an alternator with a higher idle o/p. I'm not sure what the stock TPI 5.0 alt is rated for at idle.. less than 100 amps maybe? With headlights, radio, a/c etc all off, just 3 starts are enough to prevent the car from starting again. I don't have a re-programmed ECU prom yet, so the car is touchy at idle and easy to stall.
Besides the underdriven alt. pulley, would an aftermarket ignition setup (HEI coil, wires, new distributer etc) also contribute to draining the battery so quickly?
I mean like turn key, start car. Kill engine. 3 times. So actually firing up 3 times.
As for aftermarket TPI alts... looking at prices on Summit I see they have em (Chrome) for $165 for a 140 amp with o/e wiring. Was that the one you were refering to?
Heck I see you can buy 300A alternators - not sure what you would need those for.. big sound systems I s'pose.
As for aftermarket TPI alts... looking at prices on Summit I see they have em (Chrome) for $165 for a 140 amp with o/e wiring. Was that the one you were refering to?
Heck I see you can buy 300A alternators - not sure what you would need those for.. big sound systems I s'pose.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 532
Likes: 0
From: Tennessee
Car: '89 RS
Engine: 9C1 w/ TPI
Transmission: rebuilt 700R4
Yea, that's the chrome alt. i was talking about. But i've yet to find a high amp alt w/ a normal finish...i'm sure they're around, i just haven't looked very hard. Man, if after 3 cranks your car goes dead then it's not your pulleys or alt. I'd check out the batter first....get it tested for free at autozone or such. The only time pullies or alt. affect it is if you do some driving. So test the battery. When it wont crank, does it turn over slow, starter click, or nothing at all?
By the 4th start it doesn't even click.
I recently just dropped a brand new Altima red-top battery in there. The guy checked it was ok before he sold it to me. Sure enough, it checks out fine with my own tester.
Guess I'm just gonna have spend some quality time hunting this gremlin down. Thx for the pointers!
I recently just dropped a brand new Altima red-top battery in there. The guy checked it was ok before he sold it to me. Sure enough, it checks out fine with my own tester.
Guess I'm just gonna have spend some quality time hunting this gremlin down. Thx for the pointers!
Last edited by RA080923; Aug 27, 2002 at 09:34 AM.
Trending Topics
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 532
Likes: 0
From: Tennessee
Car: '89 RS
Engine: 9C1 w/ TPI
Transmission: rebuilt 700R4
If it doesn't even click, then i'd look into the starter/solenoid, or maybe even the ignition switch. good luck, lemme know what you find
Went over the entire charge system again last night. Looks like the alternator charge connector boot was the culprit. It obviously needs replacing - it seems to come loose real easy and it's hit and miss as to whether it makes a good connection. Doh! After I crutched it I was able to fire the car up many times in a row no problem.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
bigjay89gta
Engine/Drivetrain/Suspension Parts for Sale
12
Oct 15, 2015 08:04 AM
Navy8125
Engine/Drivetrain/Suspension Parts for Sale
10
Aug 22, 2015 07:13 PM




