OK, first, can the manifold come off without removing the runners? One of the runner bolts (lower rear pass. side) seems to have the head stripped, so it's not coming out. Anyideas on getting that last one out?

Second, how many bolts are holding the runners on at the bottom? I've got 4 out on the driver's side, and the runners are still perfectly attached. Am I missing some or is it just sealed that well?

Last, any tips for removing/reinstalling the distributor without destroying my timing?

Thanks....

-Reno

 

Without the runners off, I doubt you can get to all the bolts holding the manifold to the heads.

 

I'm pretty sure you do need to remove the runners to pull the manifold off.

On the bottom there is a bolt that goes in backwards on each runner. The passenger side one is located towards the front, the drivers side towards the rear.

For the timing just mark where your rotor was pointing on your firewall and make sure you drop the distributor in the same way you pull it out.

Make sure you drain the coolant from your intake before you pull it off, unless you feel like changing your oil afterwards.

 

Thanks for the tip about the coolant...definately would have botched that one.

I found the backwards facing bolts on both sides. Counting that backwards one, are there only 4 in the bottom of each? If so, I'm gonna need a mallet to get the dang runners off. Like I said, they're pretty well attached, even without the bolts holding them.

One new question: what's thee torx size on the manifold bolts? T40 is too small, T50 is too big. Is it a T45 or something?

And any ideas on that stripped head?

-Reno

 

Bingo!

For the stripped bolt...where it is located your best bet is to carefully drill the head off of it.

 

There are 6 bolts on the bottom of each runner. 5 from the front, 1 from the back each. 3 on each pair. I have no idea how you can be missing 2 of the front bolts if you're already counting the ones coming from the back. Do you wear glasses? Seriously, they are all right there if you're looking. Maybe you're forgetting the 2 bottom bolts, which are tight, especially if you don't pull the injector/wiring harnesses out of the way first.

 

Oh...hehe...uh...under them...hehe...injector harness...right...DOH!!

Thanks Ed. Guess that'll be the first thing tomorrow.

Drilling will be nearly impossible on the stripped one, it's in the back. Once I get the other 5, can I possibly rotate it on the bolt, or are there flanges or contour lines on the mating surfaces or something?

-Reno

 

I doubt it will rotate, the gasket will be holding the runner to the intake pretty tightly. Once those torqs bolts sieze up they are not going to let go without a monumental fight. Go to a good hardware store and get a 12 inch long 3/16" drill bit and a 1/4" and 5/16" bits, all 12" long. This will give you the room to do the drilling, start with the smaller bit and work your way up. Drill just a little deeper than the head is thick and it should pop right off.
Drill slowly to avoid burning up the bits and hardening the bolt in the process.